| Peak: | Kit Carson Peak - 14,165 feet | |
| Posted By: | Kiefer | |
| Post Date: | 04/27/2009 | |
| Date Climbed: | 04/26/2009 | |
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| Early Spring climbing on KC |
Kit Carson Peak & Kirk‘s Couloir 
Stephanie in the Outward Bound Couloir Kit Carson Peak- Outward Bound Couloir Media Dude, Patrick, Slynn4_13run, Cheeseburgler, sdkeil, Kiefer ~14 miles 5,127-v-ft. Gabe wanted to hit Kit Carson and Challenger for some time. Due to the mileage and elevation gain, this wasn’t a bad idea especially in terms of training for Alaska. I personally wasn’t too thrilled about heading back up there and less thrilled about ascending Challenger again but under winter conditions, this could be a very different trip. Plus, I’d wanted to get up the Outward Bound Couloir and Kirk’s Couloir for some time, so the opportunity was definitely there. Gabe’s uncle, Patrick (one seriously cool cat!) drove up from Chama, New Mexico to join us and after a few phone calls, Stephanie, Shawn, and Craig were all on board to tag these two Sangre peaks. Saturday We all met at the trailhead (9,070ft) at 10:30am-11:00am. Gabe, Craig and myself car-pooled since Craig lives in Glenwood and Gabe and I in the Vail Valley. Steph and Shawn drove down from the Front Range. We’re all good friends and have been out previously many times, so seeing one another again was nice after this past winter. We took a little while gearing up, talking about this & that, finishing off some Stella’s and just for fun, weighing our packs since Patrick had a fish scale. Craig’s pack came in at 56lbs, Shawn’s was 43lbs, mine was 36lbs and Patrick’s was about 33lbs. We couldn’t weigh Stephanie’s because Gabe’s pack broke the scale,  something close to 60lbs. Craig and I finished our beers, threw everything not tied down into the back of Gabe’s truck, stashed the rest of the beer in a snowbank and called it good.
Oh, yeah, this was going to be a good weekend. We leapfrogged each other heading up the trail. I could walk this thing blindfolded since this was my 10th trip to Willow Lake. We didn’t see anyone on the way in. Snow was spotty and patched on the switch-backed lower trail but seemed to disappear once we crested the ridge and started the straight portion towards the rock fall; naturally the higher we got, the snow came back. At first it was fairly inconsistent but decent quality for walking on, snowshoes weren’t necessary yet. Craig found out that his sandals didn’t work too well in snow.  Gabe punched through a few times and & had to stop and switch into boots. With the pack he was carrying, I’m surprised he didn’t punch through the trail itself!
We stopped for a short break at the stream crossing and donned our snowshoes. The snow at this point was consistent and softening up a bit. Craig threw on his plastics and continued on with skis. He had no problem getting up the headwall. On the approach in to Willow Lake, we crossed a lot of deadfall and downed trees. I think the winds have been exceedingly strong up there combined with two slide paths we crossed. There was a huge mess above the headwall just past the second creek crossing, which had running water. 
Craig & Gabe 
Shawn, Patrick & Stephanie 
Ice Station Zebra 
Willow Lake 
Gabe-Kinda looks like he belongs in the Alps! 
Christy, Ted and Craig 
Gabe in the OB Couloir 
Climbing to the Summit Ridge We stayed fairly close together on the approach. I found the last small ravine that leads to some campsites akin to the lake and we found some cool spots. Shawn & Stephanie stayed up higher with Pat and Gabe while Craig and I elected for a lower spot sandwiched in between some trees. We dug down about three feet and built four-foot high walls around our platform. Craig‘s and my campsite was referred as Ice-Station Zebra and Gabe, Shawn and Co. occupied the Hoth Battlements. The storm that was forecasted to roll through that day was finally starting to roll in. It was increasingly windy but so far, not all that cold. By later that afternoon, the clouds swept over the higher ridges and peaks, erasing them and swirls of spindrift were violently lifted up and whipped about. It sounded like a freight train up there in the higher crags. We all eventually retired and set our alarms for 5:00am not sure if the winds were going to die down by morning. We’d play it by ear. At best, we’d have a late start, at worst, we’d pack up and head home, none the worst for wear. Sunday The alarm went off. Craig rolled over and muttered that it sounded like the winds were still in high pursuit of themselves. Yea, it was still whipping up there. I suggested he re-set the alarm for 5:30am and we’ll take another listen. Ninety minutes later, everyone was awake and gearing up slowly. I however, was still firmly planted inside my sleeping bag. I brought a new –20 sleeping bag and I wanted to try it out for the first time. Wow! I DID NOT want to get out. That bugger was warm!
It took some doing but I finally roused myself and got up. I couldn’t go back to sleep anyway because everyone was talking too loudly and the constant pitter-patter of snowballs hitting the tent kept me awake, probably a good thing. 
I took a few swigs of water, ate some lemon pound cake and nuts and joined the rest of the group up at the other tents. I didn’t feel like lingering and it was already late enough so we all moved out. The winds had died down considerably and the sky was partly cloudy with lots of blue. I stuck with the standard summer trail by ascending the snow slope early and traversing higher to the flats above the lake. Gabe and I stopped halfway and donned our points. Everyone else came up a slope from lower down and we all met above the lake. We kept traversing the higher basin till we reached the bottom of Kirk’s Couloir. A few of us looked around and saw two people still quite a ways behind us but gaining rapidly, pretty impressive actually. They were both on skis. We continued following Craig’s tracks till we caught up with him at the bottom of the apron to the Outward Bound Couloir. Stephanie and I were above the rest of the group and waited till everyone joined us on a rock for a quick food break. Gabe and Craig and been talking to the two skiers a little lower down and they turned out to be Ted Mahon and his fiancé, Christy! Once we had climbed past the lower apron, we were all climbing together taking turns breaking steps in the steepening snow. Ted, Christy and Craig ended up skiing off the summit. At the bottom, I measured 30° on the apron. About ¼ of the way up, I measured 37°, roughly halfway, I measured 41° and near the top at the exit, I measured almost 48°. The Outward Bound Couloir tops out at 13,620ft and was a lot shorter then what I was expecting and not as steep either. It was ok I guess, but nothing worth going back and repeating. The snow was punchy in the couloir and definitely not the best. But it did improve a bit the higher we got. We continued on towards the summit linking up-climbs and short traverses following Ted, Christy and Shawn. I know from two seasons ago, Jordan and Joe climbed this route and skied halfway down Cole’s Couloir before returning back to the col. Cole’s Couloir (south-side) would be a very aesthetic line to ski or climb (Spanish Creek). Though I can see this being a dangerous route if conditions are suspect. I‘d like to get back up there later in early June and if it‘s still in, climb Cole‘s. 
Mt. Humboldt 
Ted Mahon & Christy 
Summit Shot! 
Stephanie on the downclimb 
Ted on his sticks 
Christy getting her turns in 
Craig tearing up the OB Once we reached the ridge, it was an easy walk to the summit. Since Craig, Ted and Christy were on skis, their crampons came off. The rest of us just left ours on. Kit Carson is a great summit! The views are magnificent. It was definitely easier with snow. Fact, I’d be happy with 9 months of winter!
We all talked for a while on the summit, asking Ted questions about some of his ski descents and just the usual. Stephanie and I were getting cold. So we got and packed up some stuff to leave. Shawn and Gabe were already off the summit and starting the down-climb. We crossed a small rock rib and turned around and watched Ted, Craig and Christy ski off the summit towards us. Back at the col, we waited for the skiers to get ready to drop into the couloir. Gabe was already a good 40 feet down and veering off to the right to make room. The rest of us waited till they were about halfway down before we started our descent. Plunge stepping was easy at this point since the snow had softened up. Halfway down, where Gabe and Craig were, we waited for Shawn and Stephanie to catch up then off came the crampons! I turned my axe around and off I went glissading all the way down to the bottom of the apron. The snow kept flying up into my face obscuring my glasses, dam that was cold! Craig went flying by and we didn’t see him again till we were back at camp. Somehow, on the descent in the lower half of the couloir, Gabe managed to hog-tie himself with his left crampon and took an endo down the slope! I missed it but heard all about it!
Good job there, sport! 
Gabe, Stephanie and Shawn came walking down and we headed out. I ran small segments on the way out but elected not to walk across the lake….bad mistake. I post-holed the whole slope back to camp and arrived there at the same time everyone else did, as they wisely walked the lake. I have no idea what I was thinking. 
We leisurely packed up camp and headed out. By the way, the Purple Sage Restaurant located in the Baca Grande Estates in Crestone has awesome food! Definitely recommended. 
Post climb/trailhead shot 
Craig (Cheeseburgler) skiing above Willow Lake 
Christy topping out in the OB Couloir 
Familiar Scenery Thumbnails for uploaded photos: 
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