Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
The most recent storm missed Wilson, and the big storm from the previous week had plenty of time to set up. I did not bring the snowmobile for this trip since the complete route would be a loop. The road was closed a half mile down last week. I had cel reception at the trailhead, and got to talking with an old friend until 10:30. I over compensated my start time with a 12:30 departure from the road closure to recover the approach. So starting on only two hours of sleep.
There was a nice track into the basin, and made treeline about 3:00 am! But I was sweaty, and slightly dehydrated. I changed layers to sit still for an hour or so, but I would hardly call this a rest. If anything, the chills sapped my strength. I was hot&cold for the rest of the skin up to the pass. I noticed a couple skiers making their way up into the basin. I wrapped around to the Gladstone saddle. The sunny south slopes were a big welcome.
The Southwest ridge was very challenging, and time consuming given the new punch crust. There were two groups of three skinning up to the west side of Wilson. They gained that distance as I worked slowly on the ridge. The false summit was the crux. A class 3 angled ledge brought me to the top. I fell for it that's for sure. It was down a couple hundred feet of very steep class 3+ to initiate the class 3 summit chute for another ~500 feet. The west side couloirs were becoming a more appealing ascent route by then.
At the summit, it was chilly with a humid nip. I dressed for the descent, and skated off the summit over to the top of the Northeast face.
Click for enlargement
I rode down the north ridge for about 7 yds and was greeted by one of the climbers pulling out of the west couloir just as I was dropping in to the east.
There was no crust on this aspect, and some of the new snow had sluffed to the red dirt layer. The upper face came alive with sluff on the first cut. Things were pretty static though, and very few clues of the chicken farm underneeth. I hit a few, but the floatation was excellent.
The main upper chute.
Midway
Lower runout
The Northeast Amphitheater
I was tempted to descend to treeline, but traversed on the board as far as I could, split and kicked across the shelf, eventually descending to the forest over a couple drainages. I had my doubts at one moment, but was reassured by the map. I assembled the board and rode to the lower switchback on the silver pick road, and cruising to the tailgait from there.
It was 11:30 at the truck.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
to Jason Troth, who rode the East Face several years ago (‘04, ‘05?). Search Wildsnow.com.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
