Support 14ers.com
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Torreys Peak  -  14,267 feet
 Post Date:  05/12/2009 Modified: 05/15/2009
 Date Climbed:   05/13/2007
 Posted By:  Easy Rider

 East Face, Dead Dog Couloir   

The storms last weekend gave me a chance to rest. Maybe I am starting to age. Work drags at times too. Gas prices continued to soar, and expected to continue to 4 $/ gal this summer. Trips to the Front Range were becoming less desirable.
I was surprised to find snow on the road immediately after the Bakersville exit, at 9,800. I slept in the cab. The orange glow of the exit lights, and drone of the interstate made me restless, and waiting for the 3:30 alarm. It was patchy and dirty snow up to the Steven's TH. Nasty trenches from an aggressive 4x4 ended in a ditch at the junction. I was passed by a hiker hauling skis around a steep and dry south facing stretch. I trailed behind through a small cluster of cabins to a big iron bridge at 11,200. A light flickered in the stubby trees ahead. Edwards' west wall curled up around Kelso. It took longer than expected to travel the curving glacial valley. I swung low, and rounded the slope to find I had closed the gap on the skier. About a hundred yards apart, we both paused, listening to the ptarmigan. I skinned fast to keep up, and was glad I did when the sun started to cook the east face of Torreys.

The Greys saddle is the safest route. The Dead Dog chute is quite exposed to rockfall. I did not trust the thinning snow of that upper right side of the face to hold everything in place. I skinned to the bottom of the cirque, and took a direct line up to the trail. This was slower than the rib to the left, since I had to stop and put on crampons. When I put on skins again, I used a couple miscellaneous straps for leashes. I did not want a repeat of Missouri.

Image





At the saddle I noticed the skier again near the top of Greys. I headed for Torreys, since the clock was ticking on the sunny east side. Grey's more gentle northerly slopes could wait, so I would have time for the full run. The ridge went quickly, but I spent the usual amount of time with my boots, taking pictures, and buffing out the board.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image




By then, the skier had come up the ridge. I greeted him, and then rode off the summit. It was nice to know I would not be completely alone. I made a few turns off the top and pulled around a rock outcrop to the left before cutting into the Dead Dog. I watched my sluff carefully. The left was more sun affected, the right a little fresher. The middle had a runnel that got worse lower down, probably formed by an ass dragging glissader. The snow was soft enough to make the runnel less of a problem. It was a quarter to nine, and starting to warm up lower down. The pitch of this chute is surprisingly sustained to the base. I stopped to rest a couple times under protected rock outcrops. A skillet sized rock flew down the runnel, and I called down to a climber in the apron. He waved, and I continued down past him into the basin on big turns.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (0)

   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.