Mt. Shavano Trip Report 10/26/2008

Peak(s):	Mt. Shavano - 14,230 feet
Date Posted:	10/26/2008
Date Climbed:	10/25/2008
Author:	Tennessee

Shavano - Angel of Shavano Route
My original intention was to get up around 3:00 AM and head out of the Springs around 3:30. Somehow I managed to set my alarm clock for PM instead of AM, so I didn't wake up until 6:15. I jumped out of bed, grab the coffee that I had preset, fortunately it was the correct meridiem, and I was on my way. The drive over was pretty amazing as I was able to preview the southern Sawatch range. I started to approach Salida around 9 am and was able to get a great preview of the route from 285 I arrived at the Trail Head at 9:30 AM, a far cry from the planned 6:30. My initial intention was to try and climb both Shavano and Tabeguache, but I knew with a late start that it probably wasn't going to happen. I left the trailhead and moved through the pine forest. The forest had remnants of snow along the route, but not enough to make traveling the trail a problem. I did have a little bit of trouble maintaining the route through a flat section of the pine forest, but fortunately there were a few sets of footprints in the snow that helped me to navigate this section. When the trail took a hard turn to the north (right) I noticed the distinct change and took a left and headed west across a small boulder field and then back into the forest. I bushwhacked due west for about 15 minutes and broke out of the forest into the basin where the start of the Angel of Shavano climb begins. It took me about 30 minutes to reach the base of the Angel. While moving through the boulder field I noticed a climber up on the ridge above me. I continued up the boulder field until I reached the base of the Angel, where I stopped and had a quick lunch before starting the snow climbing portion. Looking down the aforementioned boulder field. Looking up the Angel from the base. As I started into the snow I noticed that it was a bit slushee, especially the newer cleaner snow. I wasn't sure if I should bail out and try to climb the talus along the edge of the snow or I should stay in the coulier. Along the left side there was a portion of dirty shallow snow that was a little more solid than the rest, so I kick stepped my way about a quarter of the way up and continued to weigh my options. As I was approaching the steeper section of the coulier, I tested the newer snow once again. To my surprise the snow wasn't slushee as it was before, but really good snow. At this point my technique changed from kick stepping to kind of a punch step. It became easy to kick into the snow and once weight was placed on it, it felt really solid. It was at this point that I really started having fun. Once I reached the head of the Angel I continued directly up the mountain towards the summit. I came across the east slope trail and traveled west for a bit on that trail which takes you to the saddle between Shavano and Esprit point. It wasn't long until the switch backs got to me, and I just left the trail and headed directly for the Shavano summit. I swear it seemed like I was chasing the summit. It was almost like it was growing as I was climbing it. I would estimate my distance, then climb a while, then estimate my distance again...only to arrive at the same estimate I had before. I did however reach the summit. The views up top were spectacular. To the South I could see the Crestone group in the Sangre De Cristo range and to the north the Sawatch stretched out before me. I ate second lunch snapped off a few photos and headed back down. The temperature was about 35 degrees, but the wind was a pretty constant 30 - 40 mph. Looking South into the San Luis Valley Looking North - Antero and Princeton Looking North - Across the Sawatch Range Looking West - Mount Tabeguache I descended down the South east face of Shavano and crossed the left (climbers left) arm of the Angel. I could see the East Slope trail below me, so I continued south east until I eventually descended to the trail. From there I followed the trail back to the trailhead. I arrived back at my car at about 6pm. Driving out to 285 I looked back at Shavano, who was only a silhouette against the twilight sky. A near perfect day of climbing! Shavano Silhouette This was my first Solo Climb and my first Snow Climb. I would highly recommend this route if you are just starting to venture into snow climbing. It's steep enough to be adventuresome, but not terrifying. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Shavano - Angel of Shavano Route

My original intention was to get up around 3:00 AM and head out of the Springs around 3:30. Somehow I managed to set my alarm clock for PM instead of AM, so I didn't wake up until 6:15. I jumped out of bed, grab the coffee that I had preset, fortunately it was the correct meridiem, and I was on my way. The drive over was pretty amazing as I was able to preview the southern Sawatch range. I started to approach Salida around 9 am and was able to get a great preview of the route from 285

I arrived at the Trail Head at 9:30 AM, a far cry from the planned 6:30. My initial intention was to try and climb both Shavano and Tabeguache, but I knew with a late start that it probably wasn't going to happen. I left the trailhead and moved through the pine forest. The forest had remnants of snow along the route, but not enough to make traveling the trail a problem. I did have a little bit of trouble maintaining the route through a flat section of the pine forest, but fortunately there were a few sets of footprints in the snow that helped me to navigate this section. When the trail took a hard turn to the north (right) I noticed the distinct change and took a left and headed west across a small boulder field and then back into the forest. I bushwhacked due west for about 15 minutes and broke out of the forest into the basin where the start of the Angel of Shavano climb begins.

It took me about 30 minutes to reach the base of the Angel. While moving through the boulder field I noticed a climber up on the ridge above me.

I continued up the boulder field until I reached the base of the Angel, where I stopped and had a quick lunch before starting the snow climbing portion.

Looking down the aforementioned boulder field.

Looking up the Angel from the base.

As I started into the snow I noticed that it was a bit slushee, especially the newer cleaner snow. I wasn't sure if I should bail out and try to climb the talus along the edge of the snow or I should stay in the coulier. Along the left side there was a portion of dirty shallow snow that was a little more solid than the rest, so I kick stepped my way about a quarter of the way up and continued to weigh my options. As I was approaching the steeper section of the coulier, I tested the newer snow once again. To my surprise the snow wasn't slushee as it was before, but really good snow. At this point my technique changed from kick stepping to kind of a punch step. It became easy to kick into the snow and once weight was placed on it, it felt really solid. It was at this point that I really started having fun. Once I reached the head of the Angel I continued directly up the mountain towards the summit. I came across the east slope trail and traveled west for a bit on that trail which takes you to the saddle between Shavano and Esprit point. It wasn't long until the switch backs got to me, and I just left the trail and headed directly for the Shavano summit. I swear it seemed like I was chasing the summit. It was almost like it was growing as I was climbing it. I would estimate my distance, then climb a while, then estimate my distance again...only to arrive at the same estimate I had before. I did however reach the summit. The views up top were spectacular. To the South I could see the Crestone group in the Sangre De Cristo range and to the north the Sawatch stretched out before me. I ate second lunch snapped off a few photos and headed back down. The temperature was about 35 degrees, but the wind was a pretty constant 30 - 40 mph.

Looking South into the San Luis Valley

Looking North - Antero and Princeton

Looking North - Across the Sawatch Range

Looking West - Mount Tabeguache

I descended down the South east face of Shavano and crossed the left (climbers left) arm of the Angel. I could see the East Slope trail below me, so I continued south east until I eventually descended to the trail. From there I followed the trail back to the trailhead. I arrived back at my car at about 6pm. Driving out to 285 I looked back at Shavano, who was only a silhouette against the twilight sky. A near perfect day of climbing!

Shavano Silhouette

This was my first Solo Climb and my first Snow Climb. I would highly recommend this route if you are just starting to venture into snow climbing. It's steep enough to be adventuresome, but not terrifying.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions
Not registered?

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App