Log In 
Peak(s):  El Diente Peak  -  14,175 feet
Date Posted:  09/15/2008
Modified:  09/16/2008
Date Climbed:   09/13/2008
Author:  DHatfield
 A frosty morn on El Diente   

El Diente Peak (14,159')
Partner: Susan Paul
Trailhead: Kilpacker
Distance: Approx. 12.0 miles
Elevation Gain: Approx 4,100 feet
Class: 3

With last weekend's trip up Wilson Peak going so well, and the weather forecast for the upcoming weekend being sunny and in the 40s, we thought that taking a nice 3-day trip to finish the Wilson Group by doing El Diente Peak with the traverse to Mount Wilson would be a perfect way to wrap up the San Juans for the season.

9/12/08
We left the Springs Saturday morning, and headed to the Kilpacker Trailhead. As we started south on Hwy 550, nearing Ridgeway we were in awe of the great views of the mountains around Mount Sneffels, all covered in a nice blanket of snow. That made me wish I had brought my ice axe on this trip. I was hoping that farther south, and with our route being south-facing, we would have less snow, but as we pulled into the Kilpacker Trailhead we could see snow along our route. Maybe we will get lucky and the snow will melt before the next morning, I thought. We started up the Kilpacker trail on a nice dirt/muddy trail. One we started up Kilpacker Creek the trail started to gain a little more elevation and soon we crossed Kilpacker Creek on some logs, and then a nice large meadow that had incredible views of El Diente Peak.

El Diente Peak and upper water fall as seen from large meadow after Kilpacker Creek crossing.

Image


We arrived at the lower waterfall and set up camp in the sun for some warmth. There are several nice campsites in the vicinity of the waterfall. After some grub and some light reading it was time to turn in for the night as we wanted to get up at 3:00am for an early 4:00am departure.

9/13/08
It was a little cool in the morning, but at least it was cloudless and we had some extra lighting provided by the full moon. After breakfast we left camp and continued up the Kilpacker Trail. It begins to climb steeply above the lower waterfall, and this was tough being first thing in the morning, and me not being warmed up yet. It wasn't long before we started up the large, never ending talus field as the trail works toward the upper waterfall, where I had a hard time following in the dark at times. As we neared the little bench above the upper waterfall we started to see some snow on the ground and soon after lost the trail, and instead of spending time looking for it we just continued to hike east up the drainage knowing that eventually we would pick up the trail. It just started to get light as we started up the moderately steep, hard snow slope and it sure would have been nice to have crampons - or at least mountaineering boots, instead of our summer hiking boots. We headed toward a rock cliff that you have to skirt on its south side, and then east to get around it, and shortly you can see the beginning of the south slope route as a nice talus ramp heading back west above the cliffs we had just skirted. That is the only weakness in the cliffs leading to El Diente Peak, and it is marked with two cairns so you don't miss it in the dark.

Soon after starting up the south slopes route the sunrise was a much needed welcome.

Early morning sunrise.

Image


Image


Sunrise on El Diente

Image


The first part of the gully started to get steep and care was needed due to the hard snow and of coarse the nasty ice on the rocks that weren't covered in snow, so we proceeded to head up the center of the gully toward the Organ Pipes high above us.

A nice little break enjoying the views, yes it's a tad steep.

Image


Climbing up the south slope. Is it really better with the snow, or the scree of summer?

Image


After our break we continued to push on upward, and as we neared the top of the gully near the Organ Pipes encountered some class 3 climbing. With the snow/ice covered rocks, that made thing a little interesting!! There was no tracks, so route finding was a little of a challenge. The last time I did this peak it was from the north side - so this was all new to me as well.

Looking up toward El Diente from near the Organ Pipes where you ascend the two gullies in center.

Image



Looking up the lower gully as you climb to the notch high above.

Image


Some nice class 3 scrambling as we ascend the gullies.

Image


Once we reached the notch at the top of the two gullies we crossed over to the north side of the nasty traverse above two steep snow gullies, on a narrow ledge. With no snow this is not bad, but with us breaking trail through foot deep snow, and not having our ice axes, I thought it was a little nuts!!

Looking back at the traverse on the north side of El Diente as we head for the notch below the summit.

Image


Once at the north we had one short, very steep snow gully that I really didn't want to climb since a slip here would more than likely be fatal, but the summit was so close - so we climbed up very carefully to the summit ridge.

Climbing up the steep gully below the summit ridge.

Image


We arrived on the summit with awesome views of snow-blanketed peaks all around. What a wonderful place!! Congrats on this tough climb Susan!! Although I wasn't really looking forward to the downclimb we started very shortly after signing the register and taking pictures, as we didn't want to get too relaxed.

Looking across the El Diente Peak and Mount Wilson Traverse with Gladstone Peak on left and "South Wilson" on far right.

Image


Me on the summit of El Diente Peak with Point 13,498 in distance. Now that looks like an interesting peak!!

Image


Looking east at Mount Wilson and "South Wilson"

Image


Looking south at Hesperus Mountain group.

Image


Looking north at Point 13,498 in foreground and Little Cone in distance on left

Image


Looking northeast at Wilson Peak in center with Mount Sneffels in distance.

Image


Gladstone Peak.

Image


Carefully descending down from the notch near the summit as you traverse into the north gullies.

Image


As we headed down from the summit and started across the north facing gullies we meet another solo climber named Milton. We continued carefully across the airy north face and started back down toward the Organ Pipes. There we decided to abandon the idea of the traverse, due to all the snow and ice. Sorry Susan , but we will do it another time under more ideal conditions. We met two other climber this day, Ryan and Dave - they had climbed up the north couloir and descended the south gully. After a slow, nerve-racking descent we finally reached the valley floor far below. It was good to be back on more level ground so we took a nice break at the bottom to enjoy the great views and weather. Bummer about all the snow as the weather was perfect for doing the traverse.

At the bottom and done with the hard stuff.

Image



After our break we continued on the long talus trail - or as Susan noted, "a big pile of talus with a slight depression running through it" - all the way back to camp. We arrived at camp and took a nap to let the nerves settle back into place before packing up and heading back to the trailhead for our next day's adventure. We thought about packing around to do Mount Wilson, but that thought didn't last long. Next time Susan.

Even though we did this climb without crampons or ice axes I would highly recommend at least an ice axe and if you plan an early start, crampons too. Better yet - wait for that snow on the north slopes to harden up first - it's too soft right now to hold anything anyway, if you did slip - and it's a very long drop into Navajo Basin!

Susan I had a wonderful time and enjoyed your company. Looking forward to hiking with you again someday.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20


Comments or Questions
ktiffany
User
Wowsers....
9/16/2008 5:00am
Doug- you rock! That mountain is scary enough and you went and added slick snow- nice work!


DHatfield
Thanks
9/16/2008 1:49pm
Scottsu - Doing Lizard Head is a notable accomplishment when dry and you did it with snow and ice.... amazing. I really enjoyed the views of that peak as we drove over Lizard Pass on our way to the trailhead.

del_sur - We saw snow over on the peak you were climbing as well. Yea the homework is on hold until next time.... should be fun!!

ktiffany - I am working at it and thanks.


susanjoypaul
User
Nice report
9/16/2008 2:32pm
Tough peak. Hard to believe that everything I did, you did backwards and in high heels! (just kidding, but the old folks like me will get a chuckle from the Ginger Rogers reference). Seriously - I don‘t know how you manage to lead and take pictures on climbs like this - I couldn‘t take my eyes off my own two feet. Thanks for giving up your weekend for another ”re-peak” for me - we‘ll be back to your lists soon enough!

Matt - we looked over at Hesperus, wondered if you made it up there. Yeah, we got an Incomplete on the homework - but the teacher noted we can take the ”course” again next semester. Sign me up, Professor - I don‘t feel tardy...


Kevin Baker
User
nice one
9/16/2008 3:10pm
Snow always turns up the spice a notch, especially early in the season when an ice axe is pretty much useless. So do you think you‘re going to finish the 14ers this year, Susan? It‘s time to start focusing on more important lists than the 14ers like the illustrious El Paso county list!


susanjoypaul
User
The Lists
11/30/2010 5:28pm
Kevin - I have a few options that I'm tossing around, including:

(a) just blow my wad (premature escalation?) and get the final four "ranked" ones over the next few weekends
(b) do the "Tour de Massive" first so I have all 59 - from all lists (14ers.com, LoJ, & CMC) - when I get my last ranked one
(c) go for all 75 summits above 14K' before finishing my last ranked one, so I'm REALLY done with all the "14ers"
(d) spend the fall/winter season slamming through the rest of the Colorado county highpoints, and end on Mt Wilson OR Blanca - making my final 14er ALSO my final county highpoint

Then there's this to consider: Doug is also working on the county highpoints, and it's possible he could make his final one (Phoenix) also his final Centennial. So - if we want to finish our county HPs together, he needs to get cracking on his high 100 list.

And then there are the El Paso county summits. I'll probably put some time on those this winter, but only when the CAIC is calling for "considerable avalanche danger" everywhere else - OR if I figure out a way to hit the Fort Carson peaks without getting shot. "Ole Rusty Nuts" out at Silver Pick is one thing... ...those Army dudes are serious!

So much to climb...


cftbq
User
"A" for perseverance
11/30/2010 5:28pm
Great TR, guys. Super congrats on doing a hard peak an even harder way.
Sorry you had to bail on the traverse. If, perchance, you end up having to put it off until next year, keep me in the loop; it's on my agenda, too...


uwe
Wow What A Difference A Week Makes!
11/30/2010 5:28pm
Great job with the photos and TR. That looks like one intense day, very different from the mellow climb that we all did the week prior.
Doug is a clever fellow with the camera, but he has the the 'Sports Illustrated Mountaineering' gal as motivation to keep the flashbulbs popping. (Doug, you da man!)
So, are we still on with our friendly wager for the 27th climb time? Hope so!
I am looking forward to somebody buying me a beer.


Matt
User
Looks scary!
1/19/2011 3:38am
El Diente never makes it easy, does it? Great pics!
That took guts and determination. We could see considerable snow on the Wilson Group from, fittingly, Hesperus, on Saturday. Making just one of the peaks in those conditions is an accomplishment; holding off on the traverse is another.
I guess you got an extension on the homework...


scotthsu
User
great job!
2/5/2011 12:22am
way to get the summit despite the new snow. we were wanting to do the traverse that same day but decided against it, thinking the snow would make it pretty tricky and slow-going. it was great weather though, which we were enjoying from nearby Lizard Head.



   Not registered?


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.


Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.