Longs Peak Trip Report 07/17/2008

Peak(s):	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet
Date Posted:	07/17/2008
Date Climbed:	07/08/2008
Author:	ocomik

Longs via the Keyhole Route - Boulder Field Camping
Day One Unable to hike Grays/Torreys via the Kelso ridge after getting rained out on Monday, I set my sights on Longs, which would now be my first fourteener attempt. On Tuesday, July 8th, I left Georgetown and made the two hour drive to Rocky Mountain National Park's Longs trailhead. When I got to the ranger station I presented my backcountry reservation. The ranger looked it over and then asked me if I was planning on camping at the boulder field that evening. I could tell by his voice that something wasn't quite right so I asked him if there was a problem. He said the reservation listed was actually for tomorrow (July 9th) and not today. At this point I was starting to wonder, especially after being in Colorado for five days, whether I was ever going to get a chance at summiting a fourteener. The ranger was kind enough to call down and was able to get my reservation changed to the 8th. He told me the good news and said it would take a little while to get my paperwork in order and that I should return around noon. I decided to head down to Estes Park to grab some lunch. Viewing area for Longs Peak on the way back from Estes Park Close-up view of Longs from CO-7 viewing area On the way back from lunch as I headed to the trailhead, I noticed that the skies were beginning to darken. By the time I got back to the ranger station it definitely looked like the sky would open any second. I went inside the station, paid my fees and got my backcountry camping permit. On the way back out I stopped and talked to a couple of hikers that had just returned from the summit after camping in the boulder field. While talking with these two guys, a crack of thunder and bolt of lightning ripped across the sky scaring the crap out of all three of us. For me, this was the closest I'd had ever been to thunder/lightning and its awesome power made a lasting impression. Around 1:15 PM the rain began to subside, I got my gear together, signed the register at the trailhead, and began the almost six mile hike to the boulder field. The rain stopped shortly after I began and the sun came out. Instead of tucking putting my rain shell back into my pack, I just decided to drape it over my pack as an impromptu raincover. Little did I know, many a descending hiker couldn't help but comment about my unusual appearance. Self-portrait. Notice the nice pack cover. At just over the first hour, I crossed over the "alpine bridge" putting me about two miles into the journey. Approximately forty-five minutes later, above tree line I got my first glimpse of Longs and Mt. Lady Washington from the trail. View of Longs and Mt. Lady Washington from the trail. It took me another hour to get up to up to the privy and the Chasm Lake junction. By this time a new weather front was moving in causing the temperatures to drop considerably. I also was beginning to feel a little tired. Heading northwest it took me approximately one more hour to get to the Granite Pass junction. I decided to take a nice rest, enjoy the view, and use a rock to take a self-portrait. Granite Pass self-portrait. Cool weather had moved in. Almost stepped on this lil' guy while heading up the switchbacks. With 1.7 miles left until the Boulder Field, I was now heading southwest eventually making my way through the endless switchbacks. It was at this point that I saw the Keyhole for the first time. I knew I was getting close to my evenings destination and although I was getting more tired by the footstep a sense of relief washed over me. First view of the Keyhole from the trail. I pushed on through the switchbacks for a little while longer before stopping to take one last break. While sitting on a rock overlooking the Rocky Mountains, I was overcome by the sheer beauty of the moment. I felt like it was just me and the mountains. I had reached escape velocity from civilization and was now "into the wild." I smiled. Looking out at the surrounding mountains from the switchbacks. The final push got me up to the Boulder Field and to the camping area. I was exhausted. The last quarter-mile felt like a death march and most of my energy had left me. I spent the next forty-five minutes just recovering and trying to find a sizable campsite for my tent in this rugged terrain. Thereafter, I cooked up some dinner and retired early for the evening below the Keyhole excited about tomorrows summit attempt. My campsite in the Boulder Field. Day Two Morning dawns on the Boulder Field. Keyhole in the early morning. Dawn came early. Around 5:50 I looked towards the northeast and could see the faint silhouette of hikers making their way towards the Boulder Field. At 6:15 my pack was on and I was making my way across the rest of the Boulder Field to the base of the climb for the Keyhole. From the base the keyhole can look a little intimidating; however, I was anxious to get my "scramble" on. Thirty minutes later I found myself on the doorstep of the Keyhole. I stepped through and was blown away. Another shot of the Keyhole that morning. Looking through the Keyhole. Wanting to be the first one to summit on the day, I didn't spend much time looking at the view and quickly made my way along the ledges following the "bullseye" markers. Because I was so use to looking up for the markers, at one point I had to stop because I ran out of bullseyes. After a few minutes of scanning I located add'l markers descending down the ledges. Eventually, I came to what I consider to be the biggest challenge of Longs, i.e. climbing the 600' ascent known as the "Trough". Looking up at the Trough. Halfway up the trough looking out towards the mountains. Ice and snow was not an issue here. It was simply the challenge of hiking and scrambling a seemingly endless ascent. At one point, I got the overwhelming feeling that I was being watched. When I looked up towards the right ridge of the Trough, I noticed that a marmot had me under surveillance. This pretty much continued until I reached the top and what I perceived as the crux move of the climb. I attracted an audience while climbing the Trough. At the very top of the trough is a large boulder, which you can either skirt to the left or the right. After a quick analysis it seemed that it would be easier to go to the left allowing me to make a move and then get to some smaller steps to get over the rock and to the Narrows. The problem that I found was that that first move was a pretty serious "scrambling" move. Later I took an impromptu survey and seems like most climbers went to the right of this large rock. That being said, sometimes while climbing we choose the more difficult route, which would seem to be the case here. Crossing over the "Narrows" was a pretty straightforward process for me and I found the exposure to be inconsequential. At this point I was still on pace to make the summit first with the "Homestretch" up next. Scanning the "Homestretch" for the bullseye markers, the first one that stands out is about midway up following the left crack. I proceeded up this route but shortly before reaching the marker I became blocked by snow on the left and a large piece of sheet ice on the right. I continued analyzing my options for a few minutes when I heard some voices down below me. I turned around and saw two people waiting at the bottom of the "Homestretch" for the rest of their group. I also noticed that down and to the right was more bullseyes, used for the descent, going up the right side. I decided to head down and give this other route a try. After backtracking for approximately 100', I arrived at the right crack just as the group behind was getting ready to climb the same route. I asked the lead climber if he'd climbed Longs before to which he responded, "yes." I quickly tucked in and proceeded to climb up the "Homestretch" at a somewhat accelerated pace. Before I knew it I was at the summit. The group I had voluntarily joined was really excited and we were all highfiving and congratulating each other. For the next forty-five minutes we all enjoyed the view, took pictures, played with the resident marmot, and discussed where our adventures would take us next. It was really cool and there was definitely a feeling of camaraderie among us of achieving this shared endeavor. The summit shot for my 1st fourteener. Surrounding mountains as seen from the summit of Longs. Descending was pretty uneventful. Spent most the time going down the "Homestretch" on my backside and descending the "Trough" on the largest slabs of rock I could find to cut this beast down to size. Upon returning to the "Keyhole" I took a brief rest before heading back to my campsite in the Boulder Field. I arrived back at my tent around 12:00 PM, had a little something to eat, broke camp, and began my descent toward the trailhead around 1:45 PM. I kept a pretty quick pace because I was interested in picking up a little something to commemorate my first 14er at the ranger station. By 4:25 PM I had reached the ranger station and the end of my journey. Originally, I was disappointed that I missed the opportunity to climb Torreys and Grays as my first fourteeners; however, after doing Longs I was pretty thrilled that this ended up being my first. When all was said and done, I came away with a real sense of accomplishment and a memorable experience. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Longs via the Keyhole Route - Boulder Field Camping

Day One

Unable to hike Grays/Torreys via the Kelso ridge after getting rained out on Monday, I set my sights on Longs, which would now be my first fourteener attempt.

On Tuesday, July 8th, I left Georgetown and made the two hour drive to Rocky Mountain National Park's Longs trailhead. When I got to the ranger station I presented my backcountry reservation. The ranger looked it over and then asked me if I was planning on camping at the boulder field that evening. I could tell by his voice that something wasn't quite right so I asked him if there was a problem. He said the reservation listed was actually for tomorrow (July 9th) and not today.

At this point I was starting to wonder, especially after being in Colorado for five days, whether I was ever going to get a chance at summiting a fourteener.

The ranger was kind enough to call down and was able to get my reservation changed to the 8th. He told me the good news and said it would take a little while to get my paperwork in order and that I should return around noon. I decided to head down to Estes Park to grab some lunch.

Viewing area for Longs Peak on the way back from Estes Park

Close-up view of Longs from CO-7 viewing area

On the way back from lunch as I headed to the trailhead, I noticed that the skies were beginning to darken. By the time I got back to the ranger station it definitely looked like the sky would open any second. I went inside the station, paid my fees and got my backcountry camping permit. On the way back out I stopped and talked to a couple of hikers that had just returned from the summit after camping in the boulder field.

While talking with these two guys, a crack of thunder and bolt of lightning ripped across the sky scaring the crap out of all three of us. For me, this was the closest I'd had ever been to thunder/lightning and its awesome power made a lasting impression.

Around 1:15 PM the rain began to subside, I got my gear together, signed the register at the trailhead, and began the almost six mile hike to the boulder field.

The rain stopped shortly after I began and the sun came out. Instead of tucking putting my rain shell back into my pack, I just decided to drape it over my pack as an impromptu raincover. Little did I know, many a descending hiker couldn't help but comment about my unusual appearance.

Self-portrait. Notice the nice pack cover.

At just over the first hour, I crossed over the "alpine bridge" putting me about two miles into the journey. Approximately forty-five minutes later, above tree line I got my first glimpse of Longs and Mt. Lady Washington from the trail.

View of Longs and Mt. Lady Washington from the trail.

It took me another hour to get up to up to the privy and the Chasm Lake junction. By this time a new weather front was moving in causing the temperatures to drop considerably. I also was beginning to feel a little tired.

Heading northwest it took me approximately one more hour to get to the Granite Pass junction. I decided to take a nice rest, enjoy the view, and use a rock to take a self-portrait.

Granite Pass self-portrait. Cool weather had moved in.

Almost stepped on this lil' guy while heading up the switchbacks.

With 1.7 miles left until the Boulder Field, I was now heading southwest eventually making my way through the endless switchbacks. It was at this point that I saw the Keyhole for the first time. I knew I was getting close to my evenings destination and although I was getting more tired by the footstep a sense of relief washed over me.

First view of the Keyhole from the trail.

I pushed on through the switchbacks for a little while longer before stopping to take one last break. While sitting on a rock overlooking the Rocky Mountains, I was overcome by the sheer beauty of the moment. I felt like it was just me and the mountains. I had reached escape velocity from civilization and was now "into the wild." I smiled.

Looking out at the surrounding mountains from the switchbacks.

The final push got me up to the Boulder Field and to the camping area. I was exhausted. The last quarter-mile felt like a death march and most of my energy had left me. I spent the next forty-five minutes just recovering and trying to find a sizable campsite for my tent in this rugged terrain. Thereafter, I cooked up some dinner and retired early for the evening below the Keyhole excited about tomorrows summit attempt.

My campsite in the Boulder Field.

Day Two

Morning dawns on the Boulder Field.

Keyhole in the early morning.

Dawn came early. Around 5:50 I looked towards the northeast and could see the faint silhouette of hikers making their way towards the Boulder Field. At 6:15 my pack was on and I was making my way across the rest of the Boulder Field to the base of the climb for the Keyhole. From the base the keyhole can look a little intimidating; however, I was anxious to get my "scramble" on. Thirty minutes later I found myself on the doorstep of the Keyhole. I stepped through and was blown away.

Another shot of the Keyhole that morning.

Looking through the Keyhole.

Wanting to be the first one to summit on the day, I didn't spend much time looking at the view and quickly made my way along the ledges following the "bullseye" markers. Because I was so use to looking up for the markers, at one point I had to stop because I ran out of bullseyes. After a few minutes of scanning I located add'l markers descending down the ledges. Eventually, I came to what I consider to be the biggest challenge of Longs, i.e. climbing the 600' ascent known as the "Trough".

Looking up at the Trough.

Halfway up the trough looking out towards the mountains.

Ice and snow was not an issue here. It was simply the challenge of hiking and scrambling a seemingly endless ascent. At one point, I got the overwhelming feeling that I was being watched. When I looked up towards the right ridge of the Trough, I noticed that a marmot had me under surveillance. This pretty much continued until I reached the top and what I perceived as the crux move of the climb.

I attracted an audience while climbing the Trough.

At the very top of the trough is a large boulder, which you can either skirt to the left or the right. After a quick analysis it seemed that it would be easier to go to the left allowing me to make a move and then get to some smaller steps to get over the rock and to the Narrows. The problem that I found was that that first move was a pretty serious "scrambling" move. Later I took an impromptu survey and seems like most climbers went to the right of this large rock. That being said, sometimes while climbing we choose the more difficult route, which would seem to be the case here.

Crossing over the "Narrows" was a pretty straightforward process for me and I found the exposure to be inconsequential. At this point I was still on pace to make the summit first with the "Homestretch" up next.

Scanning the "Homestretch" for the bullseye markers, the first one that stands out is about midway up following the left crack. I proceeded up this route but shortly before reaching the marker I became blocked by snow on the left and a large piece of sheet ice on the right. I continued analyzing my options for a few minutes when I heard some voices down below me. I turned around and saw two people waiting at the bottom of the "Homestretch" for the rest of their group. I also noticed that down and to the right was more bullseyes, used for the descent, going up the right side.

I decided to head down and give this other route a try. After backtracking for approximately 100', I arrived at the right crack just as the group behind was getting ready to climb the same route. I asked the lead climber if he'd climbed Longs before to which he responded, "yes." I quickly tucked in and proceeded to climb up the "Homestretch" at a somewhat accelerated pace.

Before I knew it I was at the summit. The group I had voluntarily joined was really excited and we were all highfiving and congratulating each other.

For the next forty-five minutes we all enjoyed the view, took pictures, played with the resident marmot, and discussed where our adventures would take us next. It was really cool and there was definitely a feeling of camaraderie among us of achieving this shared endeavor.

The summit shot for my 1st fourteener.

Surrounding mountains as seen from the summit of Longs.

Descending was pretty uneventful. Spent most the time going down the "Homestretch" on my backside and descending the "Trough" on the largest slabs of rock I could find to cut this beast down to size.

Upon returning to the "Keyhole" I took a brief rest before heading back to my campsite in the Boulder Field. I arrived back at my tent around 12:00 PM, had a little something to eat, broke camp, and began my descent toward the trailhead around 1:45 PM.

I kept a pretty quick pace because I was interested in picking up a little something to commemorate my first 14er at the ranger station. By 4:25 PM I had reached the ranger station and the end of my journey.

Originally, I was disappointed that I missed the opportunity to climb Torreys and Grays as my first fourteeners; however, after doing Longs I was pretty thrilled that this ended up being my first. When all was said and done, I came away with a real sense of accomplishment and a memorable experience.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

huffy13	Sweet! 7/18/2008 4:41am Congrats on your 1st 14er! Great report too. Grays/Torreys is another one you will enjoy, I‘m sure it won‘t be near as challenging though! Hopefully next time you try them, Mother Nature will cooperate.
14mountain	Congrats 7/18/2008 4:43am EXCELLENT trip report and pics. I enjoyed reading. Longs was my first 14er, did it in one day. I‘m doing Kelso ridge in two weeks. Can‘t wait. Randy
mtnbikir	TR 7/18/2008 2:14pm You will be glad you got Longs as your first. Not a bad place to start.
benners	Excellent TR 7/18/2008 2:14pm This is a very well written report, thanks for being so candid, glad you had a good couple days!
audiotom	congrats 7/18/2008 2:48pm Nice report. Did that same marmot follow you from peak to peak later in the week?
IowaGuy	Nice TR 7/18/2008 3:01pm you had a great trip. I‘m looking to do the same in August. Thanks for the report.
JJJR	Congratulations 7/18/2008 3:29pm Very nice job. Nice TR. Congratulations!
Mel McKinney	Go big or go home... 7/19/2008 9:05pm Way to go doing a Class 3 first! Congrats to you! Great report. Hope you enjoyed the rest of your time in the state.
CODave	Nice TR 7/20/2008 12:33am Looks like you had an awesome time, congrats! Longs was my 1st 14er as well.
Carl	Well done!! 5/2/2011 2:23pm I know a lot of planning went into this. Congrats on a challenging first 14er!

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