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Peak(s):  Wetterhorn Peak  -  14,021 feet
Uncompahgre Peak  -  14,318 feet
Date Posted:  07/13/2008
Modified:  07/16/2008
Date Climbed:   07/12/2008
Author:  beatlust
 Wetterhorn/Uncompahgre treat them like ladies..   

Somehow I thought it would be a good idea to push up our trip to friday night rather than leave saturday afternoon as planned. Phil and I readied ourselves quickly as possible and made our way to silverton. The approach awas the same as redcloud and those similar area peaks but we had to pass the cinammon pass turn and continue on to engineer pass. The road was bumpy but the 4runner is always continuing to impress me..We finally hit the Matterhorn TH and made our way up to a campsite. We pitched just east of the trail about a 1/2 mile after entering the uncompahgre wilderness, we saw others camped down lower in the basin aswell. We arrived at this spot just as it became dark we set-up the tent, made dinner and went to bed.
(shot of camp taken the following day)


5:00 am
I had still to get my bag ready for Wetterhorn and as usual i packed more than was needed. I lingered in my bag for a few momwnts and we werent finally hiking until 6:00am. We stopped to filter water here where the trail splits. Later we would go right and around the ridge to uncompahgre but we didnt think of that yet...
(Wetterhorn in the background)



We hiked up past the meadow section into a pleasant boulder field just covered in marmots. We reached the top of the bouldery hill and came to the ridge.



last bit of grass, rock from here.


a different view of the ridge


Well there wasnt much more picture taking unil we reached the top.


I did however get alot of pictures from the top of the final pitch that everyone looks at the Wetterhorn TR's for..

a shot of the ramp that connects you tot he cat-walk for the final climb. look for the guy in the red shirt, hes on it. From that point go right in this pic.


here in far left you can see the ramp and over right a climber descending on the route.


the final part of the ascent


summit views


Nelson a fellow climber who we were to learn as we hiked was quite experienced and gave us a few mountaineering and alpine routes/trips to consider for the future. I wish you well in your future adventures!


Heres THE SHOT:
ramp, cat-walk, climb, and down-climbing climbers as to provide a measure of angle/difficulty.


i think if you have even twice rock climbed in your life. Wetterhorn will not be a problem. Not because you need the rock climbing moves, they will just make you more comfortable. Let me say this, Wetterhorn has exposure but its really pretty easy. And yes I am talking about the final pitch. Really.




A few hours later we were back at camp w/ the view of wetterhorn we just climbed.


We sat around for a few and felt restless...we examined the map and finally we made our decision. We were going to hike 10 miles roundtrip from our camp and do Uncompahgre right now. It wasnt a hard hike and the terrain was quite pleasant being the usual ups and downs as we approached the base of UC peak. To follow the route requires going around the mountain and coming up the backside from where you first see the peak. UC was pretty easy hiking, definately sustained but a dirt path the whole way. I was surprised to find out the route is a class two but i suppose there are a few scamble sections but routefinding makes these problems very minimal. i took a few shortcuts (unintentionally) and might have made a few thrid clas moves on this easier hike. Not lots of time to enjoy the summit as it was getting close to 5pm.


We hiked down and made it back to camp w/ just enough time to pack up and hike out before it got completely dark. it was a full day..



Comments or Questions
KeithK
User
Thanks...
7/14/2008 1:54am
...for the killer pictures of Wetterhorn! Those are some of the best I‘ve seen, and I‘m less apprehensive everytime someone posts a report. Looks like you had a great day for an awesome hike.


beatlust
you betcha..
7/14/2008 4:04am
i know i was eyeballing all the wetterhorn TR‘s for just those pics..


Chris P.
User
Matterhorn Peak
7/14/2008 2:59pm
Great report. Doing both Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre in a day isn‘t easy. I do feel the need to point out though that in your pictures #2 and #16, that‘s Matterhorn Peak in the background, not Wetterhorn. In both pictures, Wetterhorn is out of view to the left. If you‘re ever up in that basin again, I would suggest climbing Matterhorn. It‘s a fun one.


beatlust
whoops
7/16/2008 11:14pm
thanks for the correction chris, you are right.



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