Torreys Peak Trip Report 07/13/2008

Peak(s):	Torreys Peak - 14,272 feet
Date Posted:	07/13/2008
Modified:	07/14/2008
Date Climbed:	07/13/2008
Author:	FoothillsDave

Kelso Ridge - A Class3 Rookie‘s Report
So here goes, my first trip report. I have 9 Class1&2 14ers under my belt. Kelso Ridge was my first attempt at a Class3. Bill gives a fine description of the route and trip reports (thanks II262) provide great additional detail and photos of each section. The reason I am writing this report is calm the fears of those wanting to make the leap (no pun intended) from Class2 to Class3 - and to let you know that Kelso Ridge is very rewarding and very do-able! If you're like me, words like "high exposure" and "knife edge" were definitely intimidating. Ok...they scared the heck out of me! I debated taking this route (and a solo ascent, mind you) all morning up until to the time I hit the trailhead. As you can see, I made the decision and just went for it... The pleasant hike to the mine shack and at the base of the ridge looking back: Image #1 Almost immediately, I was greeted by this furry little fellow. An omen, a guardian angel? Not sure, but I was glad to have some company: Image #2 Looking down the trail at the first group of rock outcroppings. Not too challenging, but you quickly realize that you are on a Class3. Scrambling, climbing boulders and skirting scree chutes are common. You will use your hands 80% of this route. When in doubt, stay to the right. Image #3 A view up the steep section. Note the two climbers in the top/center, who chose to veer right of the well-defined trail to the left. They struggled in this area and found the mid-sized boulders to be unstable. I chose to stay on the trail which had much pea-sized gravel and teased the steep left wall. Be deliberate when ascending this section to avoid sliding: Image #4 Sitting on knife edge looking down Dead Dog Couloir: Image #5 When preparing to make the knife edge crossing, I recommend standing firmly right before you straddle the edge, take some deep breaths and look down both sides. This helped calm my nerves a little bit and eliminated the urge to look down while crossing. Straddle the edge and leap frog your way across. With your hands on the edge, push up and backward and scoot your way across. The lump of rocks in the middle of the edge is quite easy to climb over. Scoot your way across the remainder of the edge, then pull yourself up to the white rock wall and slowly navigate around to the right. The white wall is actually easier to climb than several of the earlier spots on the route (just don't look down). Take your time, focus on the movement and your hand/foot placement and you will be across in a few minutes. Sitting on knife edge looking along the edge to the white rock tower: Image #6 Looking down from the summit at the couple climbers I passed making the knife edge crossing: Image #7 Descending, a view of the ridge from the Greys/Torreys saddle: Image #8 What an incredible climb! It was a good physical and mental test. I'm hooked on Class3's now! 8:00AM begin at GP trailhead 10:45AM Torreys Summit 11:30AM depart summit via standard route 12:30PM end at GP trailhead (I jogged down) Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Kelso Ridge - A Class3 Rookie‘s Report

So here goes, my first trip report. I have 9 Class1&2 14ers under my belt. Kelso Ridge was my first attempt at a Class3.

Bill gives a fine description of the route and trip reports (thanks II262) provide great additional detail and photos of each section. The reason I am writing this report is calm the fears of those wanting to make the leap (no pun intended) from Class2 to Class3 - and to let you know that Kelso Ridge is very rewarding and very do-able!

If you're like me, words like "high exposure" and "knife edge" were definitely intimidating. Ok...they scared the heck out of me! I debated taking this route (and a solo ascent, mind you) all morning up until to the time I hit the trailhead.

As you can see, I made the decision and just went for it...

The pleasant hike to the mine shack and at the base of the ridge looking back:
Image #1

Almost immediately, I was greeted by this furry little fellow. An omen, a guardian angel? Not sure, but I was glad to have some company:
Image #2

Looking down the trail at the first group of rock outcroppings. Not too challenging, but you quickly realize that you are on a Class3. Scrambling, climbing boulders and skirting scree chutes are common. You will use your hands 80% of this route. When in doubt, stay to the right.
Image #3

A view up the steep section. Note the two climbers in the top/center, who chose to veer right of the well-defined trail to the left. They struggled in this area and found the mid-sized boulders to be unstable. I chose to stay on the trail which had much pea-sized gravel and teased the steep left wall. Be deliberate when ascending this section to avoid sliding:
Image #4

Sitting on knife edge looking down Dead Dog Couloir:
Image #5

When preparing to make the knife edge crossing, I recommend standing firmly right before you straddle the edge, take some deep breaths and look down both sides. This helped calm my nerves a little bit and eliminated the urge to look down while crossing. Straddle the edge and leap frog your way across. With your hands on the edge, push up and backward and scoot your way across. The lump of rocks in the middle of the edge is quite easy to climb over. Scoot your way across the remainder of the edge, then pull yourself up to the white rock wall and slowly navigate around to the right. The white wall is actually easier to climb than several of the earlier spots on the route (just don't look down). Take your time, focus on the movement and your hand/foot placement and you will be across in a few minutes. Sitting on knife edge looking along the edge to the white rock tower:
Image #6

Looking down from the summit at the couple climbers I passed making the knife edge crossing:
Image #7

Descending, a view of the ridge from the Greys/Torreys saddle:
Image #8

What an incredible climb! It was a good physical and mental test. I'm hooked on Class3's now!

8:00AM begin at GP trailhead
10:45AM Torreys Summit
11:30AM depart summit via standard route
12:30PM end at GP trailhead (I jogged down)

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