Wetterhorn Peak Trip Report 07/06/2008

Peak(s):	Wetterhorn Peak - 14,021 feet
Date Posted:	07/06/2008
Date Climbed:	07/06/2008
Author:	ndolbeare

Long Drive for a Perfect Day on Wetterhorn
After horseback riding in Estes Park with an out-of-state cousin on Friday and watching too much TV on Saturday morning we figured we needed to get our butts in gear if we were going to get a 14er in this weekend. The plan for the year was to climb at least one 14er in each of the major ranges. The three ranges we had left were the Elks, Cristo's and San Juan's - none of which would qualify as a quick drive from Golden. After reading lots of trip reports from all the potential ranges we chose Wetterhorn in the San Juan's. We finally left Golden at 5 and eventually rolled into the 4WD parking lot near the trailhead a little after 11. After too little sleep the alarm went off shortly after 5 and we were on the trail by 6. This is a shot of the gate at the top of the 4WD parking lot. We didn't see many cars in either lot so we didn't expect a lot of company on this climb. At the end of day we only saw 12 other people. After a short time hiking beside Matterhorn creek we saw the sun lighting up the east face of Wetterhorn. A little more hiking brought us our first views of the Matterhorn and part of the ridge that connects it to Wetterhorn. A little more than an hour of hiking brought us to the large rock fields below the east face. We also began to get a taste of what the ridge we would be climbing looked like. (Roach's book must be out of date because it talks about the need to leave the trail and ascend into the south facing basin. We found good trail all the way to the class 3 scrambling sections.) Working our way up through the rock field. This area was full of columbines and marmots. It was easy moving through the rock field and we quickly neared the saddle at 13,060 ft. A closer shot of the snow near the top of the saddle. It was nicely frozen and easy to cross. After a bit of hiking above the saddle we had a good view of the summit and prow. Climbing up some of the early scrambling sections below the prow. (Thanks to the guy from Breckenridge who helped point us to the right gully.) After ascending the gully we popped through a small notch and could see some easier terrain leading to the bottom of the prow. After ascending the small snowfield above the prow, doing a little bit of scrambling to reach the slanting slab that seemed to drop off into nothingness (sorry, no picture) and turning a corner we were at the series of ledges that lead closer to the summit. (Smitty's trip report has a great picture of these.) It reminded me of climbing stairs on ancient temples. At the top of the ascending ledges there was a narrow ledge that snaked around a corner to the last small gully which lead to the summit. So far all of the rock was solid and made for very secure scrambling. A bit of exposure kept it interesting. Looking back down the ledges. After climbing a short (20 ft.) gully we topped out. I was expecting a tiny summit but was surprised by a relatively large and flat summit. The weather was perfect and there was no wind so we hung out on top for quite a while. Uncompahgre Peak in the distance with the Matterhorn in the middle of the picture. Looking back at our approach route. One last look back at the summit of Wetterhorn. About half way down we started to notice clouds rolling in. We made it down before the rains came but by the time we were leaving Lake City this is what the drive looked like. It was raining in sheets and had the added bonus of small hail. I'm glad we got off when we did. In all, it took us about 3.5 hours (including 2 breaks) to ascend from the trailhead. Getting down took about 2.5 hours. This was a great climb and was definitely worth the long drive. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Long Drive for a Perfect Day on Wetterhorn

After horseback riding in Estes Park with an out-of-state cousin on Friday and watching too much TV on Saturday morning we figured we needed to get our butts in gear if we were going to get a 14er in this weekend. The plan for the year was to climb at least one 14er in each of the major ranges. The three ranges we had left were the Elks, Cristo's and San Juan's - none of which would qualify as a quick drive from Golden. After reading lots of trip reports from all the potential ranges we chose Wetterhorn in the San Juan's. We finally left Golden at 5 and eventually rolled into the 4WD parking lot near the trailhead a little after 11.

After too little sleep the alarm went off shortly after 5 and we were on the trail by 6. This is a shot of the gate at the top of the 4WD parking lot. We didn't see many cars in either lot so we didn't expect a lot of company on this climb. At the end of day we only saw 12 other people.

After a short time hiking beside Matterhorn creek we saw the sun lighting up the east face of Wetterhorn.

A little more hiking brought us our first views of the Matterhorn and part of the ridge that connects it to Wetterhorn.

A little more than an hour of hiking brought us to the large rock fields below the east face. We also began to get a taste of what the ridge we would be climbing looked like. (Roach's book must be out of date because it talks about the need to leave the trail and ascend into the south facing basin. We found good trail all the way to the class 3 scrambling sections.)

Working our way up through the rock field.

This area was full of columbines

and marmots.

It was easy moving through the rock field and we quickly neared the saddle at 13,060 ft.

A closer shot of the snow near the top of the saddle. It was nicely frozen and easy to cross.

After a bit of hiking above the saddle we had a good view of the summit and prow.

Climbing up some of the early scrambling sections below the prow. (Thanks to the guy from Breckenridge who helped point us to the right gully.)

After ascending the gully we popped through a small notch and could see some easier terrain leading to the bottom of the prow.

After ascending the small snowfield above the prow, doing a little bit of scrambling to reach the slanting slab that seemed to drop off into nothingness (sorry, no picture) and turning a corner we were at the series of ledges that lead closer to the summit. (Smitty's trip report has a great picture of these.) It reminded me of climbing stairs on ancient temples.

At the top of the ascending ledges there was a narrow ledge that snaked around a corner to the last small gully which lead to the summit. So far all of the rock was solid and made for very secure scrambling. A bit of exposure kept it interesting.

Looking back down the ledges.

After climbing a short (20 ft.) gully we topped out. I was expecting a tiny summit but was surprised by a relatively large and flat summit. The weather was perfect and there was no wind so we hung out on top for quite a while.

Uncompahgre Peak in the distance with the Matterhorn in the middle of the picture.

Looking back at our approach route.

One last look back at the summit of Wetterhorn.

About half way down we started to notice clouds rolling in. We made it down before the rains came but by the time we were leaving Lake City this is what the drive looked like. It was raining in sheets and had the added bonus of small hail. I'm glad we got off when we did.

In all, it took us about 3.5 hours (including 2 breaks) to ascend from the trailhead. Getting down took about 2.5 hours.

This was a great climb and was definitely worth the long drive.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Jessie_s Dad

Nice Report
7/15/2008 12:13pm

Very nice report with great pictures. I‘m looking forward to making this hike next year. I hope a get a day as nice as what you had. Great Job!

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