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 Peak(s):  Ice Mtn  -  13,951 feet
North Apostle  -  13,860 feet
 Post Date:  06/24/2008
 Date Climbed:   06/22/2008
 Posted By:  SarahT

 The Refrigerator Couloir   

Ice Mountain (13,951) via the Refrigerator Couloir
North Apostle (13,860)
From S. Winfield TH: 10.7 mi, 3850 ft
Partner: Dominic


This was day two of our long anticipated weekend of classic Sawatch couloirs. After climbing Grizzly Peak's North Couloir on Saturday, it seemed only natural to investigate Ice Mountain's Refrigerator Couloir the following day. Well, now that I think about it, the 2:30 wakeup time it would require didn't jive so well with the fact that we'd just hiked for over thirteen hours and were looking at five hours of sleep at best, but never mind that. Roach reports 7 miles and 3400 feet round trip, piece of cake right?

We drove to within 1/3 of a mile of the South Winfield 4WD trailhead where snow and debris from a large avalanche covered the road and camped there for the night. Due to the horrendous rock fall reputation the Refrigerator Couloir has, we wanted to get up and out of this thing as early as possible before the sun started warming the rock above. Our 3am start was a little rough though.

The Lake Anne Trail started off in cruisable condition and deteriorated to an exercise of dodging various sized puddles of muck and water. The turnoff for Apostle Basin came quickly though and we managed to follow it for a whole 1/4 mile or so. I'd hiked up this trail several years ago, but unfortunately between then and now I'd forgotten one crucial bit of information – Roach draws the trail on the east side of the creek while in fact it is on the west side as shown on my Trails Illustrated map. Deciding that Roach was more reliable than the map, we mistakenly continued along the east side. This is when all hell broke loose. Huge splotches of slushy snow and a large amount of deadfall made our lives miserable as we stomped around in desperation looking for signs of the trail by headlamp. We never found it, but did encounter a lone set of recent tracks in the snow from some poor soul that had made the same mistake. We resorted to walking as close to the steep creek bank as convenient since there was the least amount of snow there. It seemed we were in a time warp and dawn came long before we wanted it to.

I breathed a sigh of relief when I could finally see the light of Apostle Basin through the thinning trees. We made our way across the swampy meadow and got our first look at the Three Apostles. The basin is still very much filled with snow and the slopes leading up to the small lake northwest of Ice Mountain were quite hard so we donned our crampons early on. We did an ascending traverse above the lake and made our way to the obvious entrance of the Refrigerator. I think the mountain gods felt a little sorry for us after our nightmarish approach because a few clouds were hanging out, keeping the couloir and surrounding rock shaded. It was later than we'd hoped, but conditions seemed optimal so up we went.

The Refrigerator did not disappoint. It had an interesting feel and was consistently steeper than the Grizzly Couloir, averaging about 45 degrees. It also had a much more serious feel to it, probably due to a combination of the steeper slope and its narrowness. We couldn't have asked for more perfect conditions – the snow hadn't started to soften at all yet. Our calves were screaming more than on any other snow climb I can remember, but it was a blast. As we neared the top the slope steepened considerably and reached 55-60 degrees. Dominic put in some impressive work kicking absolutely luxurious steps here. We topped out around 9am and never saw so much as a pebble bounce down the couloir. A short but steep 3rd class scramble on loose rock deposited us on the summit of Ice Mountain and we settled in for a short but well deserved break.

I'd climbed Ice's northeast ridge before and knew it probably wouldn't be all that trivial to descend with the remaining snow, so I was anxious to be underway. I could already see that the route I'd previously taken just below the summit was buried under a very steep snow slope overlooking an abyss. Fortunately we were able to find a more attractive, dry line just a tad to the west. The crux of the downclimb was a 4th class step not too far below the summit. Although it was a little more exposed than the crux I'd encountered on my first trip, the difficulty was very similar. Surprisingly, there were only a few very short, low angle snowfields to negotiate. The descent became fairly easy below 13,700 ft or so but the loose nature of the rock kept us on our toes. The descent from the summit to the Ice – North Apostle saddle took about 45 minutes.

It was only 10:15 and making a quick trip up North Apostle was a no brainer. The ascent was rather monotonous but the views were just compensation. The weather had been strange all morning with a variety of clouds coming and going and it wasn't clear whether rain was in the cards or not. The basin was like an oven when the sun was out and this was one of those rare instances where a big, dark cloud overhead was actually a welcome sight.

The descent back to the small lake was mostly on snow. Sometimes the slope was steep and hard enough that we felt more comfortable in crampons, but we had to take them off lower down where the snow was considerably softer. From the lake, we found the lightly cairned route that does a descending traverse through a seemingly impassable cliff band to reach the meadow below – something I hadn't located on my previous trip.

The dreaded return along the creek weighed heavily on our minds. We knew we'd made a huge mistake on the way in, but rather than waste more time guessing where the trail might be, we just resigned to follow the same route back. As expected, it was rather maddening, and we had to take a break midway to refuel both mentally and physically. Fortunately it seemed to go ten times faster than it had on the way up and we were back at the car shortly after 2:00.

It was a harder day than anticipated, but well worth our efforts. We both agreed that the Refrigerator was probably our favorite snow climb so far this season. The scrambling increased the fun factor of the route considerably. Dominic loved Ice Mountain in general, and I was very glad to have made the return trip!

pictures:

 


  • Comments or Questions (8)
Nice Axe


We nearly meet again!     2011-02-04 17:22:14
Thanks for the report SarahT! That must have been your car we saw parked there. We ended up doing Huron that day and I was oogling Ice & the Refrigerator the whole time. That route has been on my must do list for a while now. How was the snow in the couloir? Did it soften up at all? Is it runneled and is it continuous to the ridge?


Bresch


Another Great Report     2008-06-24 22:53:57
Its nice to see you back, 5 star reports and all!!!!


SarahT


Snow conditions     2008-06-24 22:57:28
Nice Axe - the snow in the couloir was fairly smooth compared to a lot of stuff I‘ve seen lately. Only one or two faint runnels were forming and the steepest snow near the top was smooth as could be. You can probably get a good idea from my pics. It is very continuous to the ridge.

One of these days we will finally meet!


Chicago Transplant


Thanks     2008-06-26 07:48:13
Thanks for the report and pictures, glad conditions were in such great shape! That approach doesn‘t sound like it was too fun, but at least the couloir turned out to be rewarding


lordhelmut


Cool     2008-06-26 09:34:58
Thanks Sarah, solid conditions report and nice job getting through this one. We‘ll be up there bright and early saturday.

Quick question, would you recomend an extra ice tool? I lost my spare, just trying to see if I should rent one.


SarahT


2nd tool     2010-11-30 10:28:44
Brian - we brought 2nd tools but never got them out. I thought about it once or twice, but never bothered. 98% of the time it was fairly easy to get a bomber self belay with the shaft of our mountaineering axes. I wouldn't bother renting one - from the forecast it looks like overnight temperatures will be pretty much the same as when we did the climb and you should find very similar conditions.

FYI - I know you were thinking of traversing to West Apostle. I've done the traverse and it is mostly comprised of climbing up and over endless ribs and gullies on the south side of the ridge - all of which appear to be filled with snow still (I saw a picture of the south side of Ice that was taken Monday). Just a heads up - if you decide to try it, leave yourself plenty of time!


lordhelmut


W.Apostle     2008-06-26 11:49:51
Thanks for the heads up, I‘ll just bring my axe then.

As for W.Apostle, I think we‘ll be traversing over to N.Apostle instead, looks more straightfoward and a break from the intensity of a route such as the Refridgerator. If I stick around for Sunday, we were contemplating climbing W.Apostle by itself I imagine and then pack out, but from the looks of the route we looked at from Apostle Basin a few weekends ago, it looks a tad complex and sketchy, I could be wrong though, I just don‘t want to end up in the drainage south near Lake Ann.


Kiefer


share the feelings!     2008-10-22 04:35:57
Stomping around in the dark, that sucks. Since you‘ve already been up there, that must have been defeating and irritating at best. Especially having only ~5 hours of sleep must have only added to it.
I‘ve gotten aggrevated at how descriptions can change over time. But I guess that‘s just one of the challenges of writing guidebooks.
Glad you liked Ice enough to get back up there again.
I gotta give you props for doing this after that mini-epic up on Grizzley.
Good report, Sarah. Congratulations on an awesome line!



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