Pyramid Peak Trip Report 09/13/2007

Peak(s):	Pyramid Peak - 14,029 feet
Date Posted:	09/13/2007
Modified:	09/20/2007
Date Climbed:	09/08/2007
Author:	KAlvins

Pyramid Peak- Northwest Ridge
(the Devil we Know..) We hadn't thought about climbing Pyramid Peak until a friend started planning a trip up to climb this peak in a couple of weeks... after looking at the trail description, our interest was 'peaked'. It seemed too long to wait 2 weekends before attempting this route, so we decided to go the very weekend upcoming. After reading about the routes, and checking the weather forecast, we decided to take the Northwest Ridge up and descend via the Northeast Ridge. Since we had never tried either, it seemed a good way to visit the peak and its routes. Well, that was the plan anyway... We drove up late Friday night from Denver to Aspen via Independence pass. We drove pass several groups of deer in the dark before narrowly missing another buck darting into the roadway and almost prematurely ending our trip. We camped near Aspen and would drive to the trailhead in the morning. The road was closed to private vehicles from 7:00am to 5:00pm. (Check with USDA Forest Service, http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/whiteriver/, for current restrictions and exceptions) We arrived a little after 5 AM and the lot was filling up fast. We set on the trail at 5:30 AM and planned to be on the slopes to see sunrise on the Bells. It was cold and our breath misted as we made our way up the dark valley. After a 1 � mile, the trail slopes down towards Crater Lake and we found the Pyramid trail on our left. (photo #1) The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (CFI) sustainable trail weaves through the trees and scree slopes up to the amphitheatre and is easy to follow. We paused at a spot with a clear view of the Bells for sunrise. While waiting, an older gentleman was walking down the trail. We chatted and marveled at the peaks around us. I was able to ask some information regarding the NW route. The descriptions seemed vague not having seen any of it at all, but the information was useful once we were on the route and tidbits of information all begun to fit together. We had breakfast while watching the morning sun paint the surrounding peaks in gold. (photo#2) We followed the trail up to the crest into the amphitheatre and passed some large cairns marking the route. (photo #3 & #4) They stood high atop large boulders and form a gateway to the trail beyond. We picked our way through the boulder field on the right side following smaller cairns along the way. We continued south upwards until we were at the base of a wide couloir to our right (photo #5, photo #6). We began ascending along the center and left of the couloirs and soon found the slope too loose and steep. The ascent was slow and tedious triggering many rock slides. Another climber caught up to us on the far right and motioned us to join him on much more stable terrain. He made his way up on the green slope and we followed him up a faint trail. At the top of the slope, we found ourselves on a small ridge running east-west. We parted company with the other climber as we tried to catch our breath. To get to the spine of the NW ridge, we had to scramble across the left-facing slope to a steep gully beyond (photo #7). Note the climber in the middle of the traverse. Thanks to the climber ahead, we quickly found a stable route across (photo #8). We joined the narrow steep gully and headed straight up. At the top of the gully, we were greeted with a spectacular view of the Bells (photo #9). Turn left and head southeast towards the peak. The trail goes behind a large bump on the west side of the ridge before following the general ridge (photo #10). We followed small cairns up to the higher ridge which later turns to the east. We crossed over to the Southern face of the ridge and found a wide rubble gully at around 13,700 ft (photo #11). Climbing slightly lower into the gully, we head up through the gully towards the keyhole. We took a second to look at the imposing northface of the Pyramid at the Keyhole. From here we crossed the gully over to the 2nd ridge (photo #12) and rounded over to the 2nd gully to see if that route was more palatable. We surveyed the route up the 2nd gully (photo #13) but continued past the 3rd ridge (we did, however come down this route). The trail got considerably steeper and looser past the 3rd gully. The 3rd gully route ascend via a Class 5 chimney for over 40 ft vertically (photo #14) but turns into a shallower sloped gully. We put on climbing shoes at the base (we brought them, might as well use them) and tried to stay on firm rock to avoid knocking down loose rock on each other. The gullies merge at the top and we tried heading up the final portion of the NW ridge. We found the rocks too loose and large blocks overhead loomed precariously sloping down towards the climbing route. We bypassed this portion and skirted the summit headwall by scrambling along the base at the south side (photo #15). We round the final corner to a small saddle at the peak. We were greeted by a goat stamping his hooves above us on the pinnacle rock. The summit consist of several points, the true summit is connected to the SW ridge, followed by a pinnacle, and a smaller peak at the eastern end connected via a small saddle (photo #16). We climbed the face of the summit and consider the final 50 feet to the top to be all class 5 climbing. I probably sound like a broken record to mention that this is very loose and rotten climbing... As I was stemming upwards, I found most holds unstable and could not rely on them to hold my weight (photo #17). We found our way 30 feet higher unto a narrow ledge (2 feet wide, 3 feet tall with loose slabs at the base) with a straight drop down the north face. Karla was on this ledge crawling forward when we both decided the fatal drops/risk wasn't worth the final 20 feet to the other loose and rotten pile beyond. We slowly retreated back to the peak saddle to enjoy some lunch while taking in the view (photo #18). It was a little before noon and perfect weather at the summit. No one was around! We knew of only 3 other climbers on the peak this day... the solo climber that passed us on the couloir and a couple ahead of us who took the NE Ridge route. After a break, we started our descent. We spent over an hour searching for the NE Route below... even armed with photos of the NE route, we couldn't identify the ledge crossover from above. No discernible path could be seen from the other 3 climbers (assuming the couple made it up the NE route). Several downclimbing forays later, we decided we were wasting too much time looking for the route. We decided to go with "the Devil we know" than risk getting lost and falling off unknown routes. We climbed back to the top and went down the NW Route. At the top of the 3rd gully, we saw cairns leading down the less steep 2nd gully. We followed them down and downclimbed by leapfrogging our positions, one climbs while one waits out of the rockfall path. Coming down this way was slower with each of us waiting our turn to downclimb... Twice, major hand and footholds tore off the face while downclimbing (rocks larger that 2 ft square). We reached the amphitheater floor around 4:30 pm and took a nice break to eat again and enjoy the absolute solitude. It was then I realized my boots had suffered some 'equipment failure' with an exploded seam ripped 3" long. Since I never leave for a hike without duct-tape, repair was easy and the stroll back to the car was very pleasant with ample time to enjoy the views around. (where is everyone!?) It was an exciting and beautiful hike and we were blessed with perfect weather. So far the most exciting 14er we‘ve gone up on. I've added a map of the route we took on the NW Ridge (photo #19). Send me an 'pm' if you'd like a larger file for the trail route. My only advice to give is that anyone attempting this route/peak should consider the warning at the trailhead seriously... it‘s dangerous with loose rotten rocks and almost imposible not to knock any rock loose. Enjoy the outdoors and hike and climb safe! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Pyramid Peak- Northwest Ridge

(the Devil we Know..)

We hadn't thought about climbing Pyramid Peak until a friend started planning a trip up to climb this peak in a couple of weeks... after looking at the trail description, our interest was 'peaked'. It seemed too long to wait 2 weekends before attempting this route, so we decided to go the very weekend upcoming. After reading about the routes, and checking the weather forecast, we decided to take the Northwest Ridge up and descend via the Northeast Ridge. Since we had never tried either, it seemed a good way to visit the peak and its routes. Well, that was the plan anyway...

We drove up late Friday night from Denver to Aspen via Independence pass. We drove pass several groups of deer in the dark before narrowly missing another buck darting into the roadway and almost prematurely ending our trip. We camped near Aspen and would drive to the trailhead in the morning.

The road was closed to private vehicles from 7:00am to 5:00pm. (Check with USDA Forest Service, http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/whiteriver/, for current restrictions and exceptions) We arrived a little after 5 AM and the lot was filling up fast. We set on the trail at 5:30 AM and planned to be on the slopes to see sunrise on the Bells. It was cold and our breath misted as we made our way up the dark valley. After a 1 � mile, the trail slopes down towards Crater Lake and we found the Pyramid trail on our left. (photo #1)

The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (CFI) sustainable trail weaves through the trees and scree slopes up to the amphitheatre and is easy to follow. We paused at a spot with a clear view of the Bells for sunrise. While waiting, an older gentleman was walking down the trail. We chatted and marveled at the peaks around us. I was able to ask some information regarding the NW route. The descriptions seemed vague not having seen any of it at all, but the information was useful once we were on the route and tidbits of information all begun to fit together.

We had breakfast while watching the morning sun paint the surrounding peaks in gold. (photo#2)

We followed the trail up to the crest into the amphitheatre and passed some large cairns marking the route. (photo #3 & #4) They stood high atop large boulders and form a gateway to the trail beyond. We picked our way through the boulder field on the right side following smaller cairns along the way.

We continued south upwards until we were at the base of a wide couloir to our right (photo #5, photo #6). We began ascending along the center and left of the couloirs and soon found the slope too loose and steep. The ascent was slow and tedious triggering many rock slides. Another climber caught up to us on the far right and motioned us to join him on much more stable terrain. He made his way up on the green slope and we followed him up a faint trail.

At the top of the slope, we found ourselves on a small ridge running east-west. We parted company with the other climber as we tried to catch our breath. To get to the spine of the NW ridge, we had to scramble across the left-facing slope to a steep gully beyond (photo #7). Note the climber in the middle of the traverse. Thanks to the climber ahead, we quickly found a stable route across (photo #8).

We joined the narrow steep gully and headed straight up. At the top of the gully, we were greeted with a spectacular view of the Bells (photo #9).

Turn left and head southeast towards the peak. The trail goes behind a large bump on the west side of the ridge before following the general ridge (photo #10).

We followed small cairns up to the higher ridge which later turns to the east. We crossed over to the Southern face of the ridge and found a wide rubble gully at around 13,700 ft (photo #11).

Climbing slightly lower into the gully, we head up through the gully towards the keyhole. We took a second to look at the imposing northface of the Pyramid at the Keyhole. From here we crossed the gully over to the 2nd ridge (photo #12) and rounded over to the 2nd gully to see if that route was more palatable.

We surveyed the route up the 2nd gully (photo #13) but continued past the 3rd ridge (we did, however come down this route).

The trail got considerably steeper and looser past the 3rd gully. The 3rd gully route ascend via a Class 5 chimney for over 40 ft vertically (photo #14) but turns into a shallower sloped gully. We put on climbing shoes at the base (we brought them, might as well use them) and tried to stay on firm rock to avoid knocking down loose rock on each other.

The gullies merge at the top and we tried heading up the final portion of the NW ridge. We found the rocks too loose and large blocks overhead loomed precariously sloping down towards the climbing route. We bypassed this portion and skirted the summit headwall by scrambling along the base at the south side (photo #15).

We round the final corner to a small saddle at the peak. We were greeted by a goat stamping his hooves above us on the pinnacle rock. The summit consist of several points, the true summit is connected to the SW ridge, followed by a pinnacle, and a smaller peak at the eastern end connected via a small saddle (photo #16).

We climbed the face of the summit and consider the final 50 feet to the top to be all class 5 climbing. I probably sound like a broken record to mention that this is very loose and rotten climbing... As I was stemming upwards, I found most holds unstable and could not rely on them to hold my weight (photo #17). We found our way 30 feet higher unto a narrow ledge (2 feet wide, 3 feet tall with loose slabs at the base) with a straight drop down the north face. Karla was on this ledge crawling forward when we both decided the fatal drops/risk wasn't worth the final 20 feet to the other loose and rotten pile beyond. We slowly retreated back to the peak saddle to enjoy some lunch while taking in the view (photo #18).

It was a little before noon and perfect weather at the summit. No one was around! We knew of only 3 other climbers on the peak this day... the solo climber that passed us on the couloir and a couple ahead of us who took the NE Ridge route. After a break, we started our descent. We spent over an hour searching for the NE Route below... even armed with photos of the NE route, we couldn't identify the ledge crossover from above. No discernible path could be seen from the other 3 climbers (assuming the couple made it up the NE route). Several downclimbing forays later, we decided we were wasting too much time looking for the route.

We decided to go with "the Devil we know" than risk getting lost and falling off unknown routes. We climbed back to the top and went down the NW Route. At the top of the 3rd gully, we saw cairns leading down the less steep 2nd gully. We followed them down and downclimbed by leapfrogging our positions, one climbs while one waits out of the rockfall path. Coming down this way was slower with each of us waiting our turn to downclimb... Twice, major hand and footholds tore off the face while downclimbing (rocks larger that 2 ft square).

We reached the amphitheater floor around 4:30 pm and took a nice break to eat again and enjoy the absolute solitude. It was then I realized my boots had suffered some 'equipment failure' with an exploded seam ripped 3" long. Since I never leave for a hike without duct-tape, repair was easy and the stroll back to the car was very pleasant with ample time to enjoy the views around. (where is everyone!?)

It was an exciting and beautiful hike and we were blessed with perfect weather. So far the most exciting 14er we‘ve gone up on. I've added a map of the route we took on the NW Ridge (photo #19). Send me an 'pm' if you'd like a larger file for the trail route.

My only advice to give is that anyone attempting this route/peak should consider the warning at the trailhead seriously... it‘s dangerous with loose rotten rocks and almost imposible not to knock any rock loose. Enjoy the outdoors and hike and climb safe!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

maverick_manley

Just what I needed
9/14/2007 2:08am

Awesome man... I needed this beta. Great pics and report.

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App