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 Peak(s):  Mt. Lindsey  -  14,042 feet
"Huerfano Pk"  -  13,828 feet
 Post Date:  09/05/2007 Modified: 05/06/2014
 Date Climbed:   09/02/2007
 Posted By:  USAKeller

 Mt. Lindsey (NW Ridge) and UN 13828 (   


A Sangre Centennial Twofer


Date: September 2, 2007
Team: USAKeller and comin2getcha
Route: Northwest Ridge ascent and descent for Mt. Lindsey, traverse to South Slopes up "Huerfano Peak" (UN 13,828')
Total mileage: ~10.1 miles from Upper Huerfano/Lily Lake TH
Total elevation gain: ~4,020ft. from the TH

Lance and I left Boulder Saturday afternoon and arrived at the Huerfano TH at 9:00pm. We quickly converted the bed of the truck into an RV and went to sleep. We decided to sleep in- the alarm went off at 6:00am and we were on trail at 6:45am. Being Labor Day weekend, several other parties were out. This would be my second time climbing the NW Ridge on Lindsey; the first time last summer was my first class 4 climb, so I was excited to see what I thought of it now that I've gained more experience.

We crossed the meadow, weaved through the trees, and climbed up the steep approach to the upper part of the basin, in what took us 2 hours to reach the Iron Nipple–Mt. Lindsey saddle (~13,200ft.). We followed the standard trail for a few hundred yards to a faint turn-off and headed up east to the ridge (N37deg 35m15.9s W105deg 27m2.8s). This trail is not cairned so we picked a line that would take us to the bottom of the black chimney.

This photo shows the turn-off and main route in red, staying to the left of the ridge. The route in yellow is what we ended up taking- not
recommended because you will have to do a slightly tricky downclimb to get back over to the bottom of the chimney. And, the blue arrow
shows the entry/exit point for the class 2 scree gully (some forum members were interested in this):



The crux of this route is near the chimney. To keep it a class 3+ scramble, it's best to stay to the left of the chimney; we wanted some excitement so we climbed up the chimney – class 4+.

A closer look at the class 4 crux of this route (taken from ~13,550ft.)- the blue line is the route we took;
the red line is the easier class 3/3+ scrambling; and, the yellow line is an easier (and recommended) way
to get to the crux wall. The summit cannot be seen from here:

Image

After the crux wall, the climb turns back into a class 2 walk over the ridge to the summit, as seen in the photo below.

The final hike to the summit (taken from above the crux wall); the elevation gain is only about 50 feet from here:
Image

We reached the summit in 3hrs 45min (at 10:30am) and other parties started to join us shortly after. Some clouds started to gently roll in, but nothing threatening.

We started back down the NW Ridge with intentions of hitting UN 13,828 ("Huerfano Peak"), but with the clouds coming in, we would reassess the situation when we returned back to the Iron Nipple–Lindsey saddle. When we got there (at 12:00pm), we decided to make a run for Huerfano Peak, bypassing Iron Nipple. To do this, we dropped way below the right side of Iron Nipple, and crossed over a rock rib.

Taken from the saddle, this photo shows our route to bypass Iron Nipple:
Image

Once past the rock rib, you will see a few cliff bands that you will have to skirt around before re-gaining the ridge (South Slopes Route) to UN 13,828. The photo below shows the un-cairned route back up to the ridge.

A shot of the route after the second (and final) drop-down point- this is the section that skirts around the cliff bands:
Image

Taken from 13,500ft., this picture looks back at the route we took from the saddle:
Image

From the Iron Nipple-Lindsey saddle, it took us 1 hour to summit UN 13,828 (at 1:00pm).

California Peak (13,849ft.) from the summit of Huerfano Peak:
Image

We spent a quick 15 minutes on the summit; when we heard thunder coming our way, we knew it was time to get down. A long hail/thunder/lightning storm accompanied us as we made our way back towards Iron Nipple and wouldn't let up until near treeline down in the basin. After a muddy hike back down the steep approach, we made it back to the car in 3 hours (at 4:15pm) from the summit of UN 13,828. It was definitely a long day for us, but re-visiting the NW Ridge on Lindsey only reconfirms how excited I get when it comes to scrambling!



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
KirkT


Looks like...     2011-02-04 17:22:13
you guys were dodging some weather?? You truly missed an epic climb on the Bells... however it looks like yall had a great climb yourselves. Congrats!

Kirk


ossie322


Sweet!     2007-09-05 23:56:16
Looks like a really fun scramble! Thanks for the TR: Excellent job as usual! Also, thanks for the TR on Capitol...your photo of the traverse just under the ridge definitely helped Ben and I have a bit more fun


comin2getcha


Alot of fun!     2007-09-06 09:02:59
USAKeller - another fun climb and a great trip report. I really enjoyed the scrambling. Of course if we had started when I wanted to we would have missed the hail!


Yog


Nice Report!     2010-11-30 10:28:42
Nice, descriptive report USAKeller Have to go back some day for the Nipple & Huerfano. I thought Lindsey's N/W ridge was a blast!


Mots010

Looks like a great mountain     2007-09-06 11:24:51
Too bad I couldnt make it down for this one. The Elks called my name for the Labor Day weekend. Good stuff!


BillMiddlebrook



comin2getcha     2010-11-30 10:28:42
I can just hear her... "Just ten more minutes, just ten more minutes."


USAKeller


Hahaha!     2010-11-30 10:28:42
Lance- WHATEVER- Mr. "I Need To Sleep In"! You know I always pick the start time and we haven't had any weather problems up until Capitol when I did not pick the time . From now on: alarm goes off at 4am, on trail by 4:30am at the latest.

Bill- I laughed when I read that! Some of us don't need an hour to get ready in the mornings so we can use the 10 extra minutes sleeping (like myself!) .

Mots010, KirkT, and Mark- We missed you this weekend! But I'm glad you all got in some good peaks.

Thank you everyone for your comments!


comin2getcha


WOW     2010-11-30 10:28:42
USAKeller - Both Bill and I know the truth about who says they need to sleep in or at least have a few more minutes. You can try to deflect the responsibility but it just won't work.


BillMiddlebrook



Morning Person     2007-09-06 22:08:10
Hey, I need that hour to go through my OCD checks - 4 times! Oh yeah, and 15 minutes to choke down that PowerBar.


Shad


Great report     2007-09-07 14:27:59
Great report!!! Looks like a blast. We will have to get togetter for a climb soon. Take care!

Shad


schneck

Calfornia     2007-09-17 15:36:28
Hey - we were up on California Peak that day! I was going to say that we might be in your picture of it, but I think we were further down than that at 1pm. The hail caught us, too, though. Yikes! Looks like you had a great time in spite of the Sangre weather.


14ergirl


I love reading     2007-09-18 05:30:32
your trip reports. Sounds like you guys had a lot of fun!



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