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Maroon Peak (14,156) & N Maroon Peak (14,014) Date: Saturday, Aug 18, 2007 Route: ascend S Ridge of Maroon Peak, traverse to N Maroon, descend N Maroon NE Ridge Mileage / Elev: 10.7mi; 5,100' Team: Mike Rodenak (Chicago Transplant); Erick Lord (denalibound); Jamie Princo (shanahan96) Jamie Nellis (jamienellis)
The monsoon pattern seems to be tapering off, so our Snowmass climbing crew decided it was as good a time as any to 'Ring the Bells.'
After a few hours' sleep in the back of our vehicles in the Overnight Parking Lot for the Maroon Lake TH, the four of us started up the trail at 3:15am.
We reached the 'Bent Tree' (10,500') where the trail turns off for the Maroon Peak South Ridge route just before 5am. Jamie had warned us that the route steepens quite a bit after turning onto this trail. Upon seeing the trail steepen, the look of pure shock on Erick's face and the expletives that followed provided us all with a good laugh. Yep, kids, the introduction is indeed over!
After climbing the initial headwall that greeted us near the beginning of the trail, we continued the steep slog up Maroon Peak's East slopes.
Heading up the steep E slopes of Maroon Peak: (Photo by Erick Lord)
We arrived at the 13,300' notch at 7:25am and stopped for a snack / sunscreen break. Our steep slog was well rewarded with stunning views of every ranked 14er in the Elk Range.
Negotiating the maze on the South side of Maroon Peak proved to be a task that would require all 4 of our brains (but, then again 3 of us are blonde!) From the notch, we followed a climbers trail and some cairns to the base of a chimney.
Mike climbing the chimney: (Photo by Jamie Princo)
Jamie heading up!
After exiting the chimney left, we followed the climbers trail to a small gully where cairns and ledges led us to the base of a much larger, looser gully.
Jamie and Mike traversing ledges on the S side of Maroon: (Photo by Erick Lord)
We found easier passage by staying to the right of this gully where the rock is more stable.
The Jamies and Mike traversing to the base of the large, loose gully: (Photo by Erick Lord)
Upon topping out of this gully we picked our way up Class 3 ledges to the summit ridge.
Scrambling up to the final summit block: (Photo by Erick Lord)
A few minutes later we were standing on the summit of Maroon Peak at 9:30 am.
Viewing N Maroon and the traverse from the summit of Maroon Peak: (Photo by Erick Lord)
At 10am Erick, Jamie and I started the traverse over to N Maroon Peak while Mike headed back down our ascent route (he won't admit it; but we all suspect he had a hot date lined up that evening)
The traverse...what can I say? It lives up to its reputation of being one of Colorado's 'Great 14er Traverses.' From the summit block, we dropped down to the apex of the Bell Cord couloir. The down climb of Maroon Peak is tedious to say the least.
Erick down climbing 'the crux' from Maroon Peak
Following the ridge N from the Bell cord, we entered the fray. Despite its challenges, both physical and mental, the traverse offered a couple hours of fun, exhilarating scrambling.
Scrambling on the traverse (Photo by Jamie Princo)
Arriving on the summit at Noon, we wished we could have stayed a while to enjoy it; but we knew that we could not relax yet. There were still a few hours of down climbing ahead of us.
Erick on the summit of N Maroon with Maroon Peak and traverse in the background.
Starting down from N Maroon Peak (Photo by Erick Lord)
Erick and I chose to down climb the dihedral, while Jamie wanted to have a little fun and rappel. Another guy that we met on the summit borrowed Jamie's rope to aid his down climb as well. Jamie finishing the rappel of the dihedral (Photo by Erick Lord)(
A view of the route down from N Maroon. Can you find the climber?
The rumors are true! The seemingly endless route down N Maroon Peak finished off the days' theme well - steep and loose! Fortunately for us, it did end. A few hours later we rejoiced at the site of our vehicles containing sandals and beer.
The Maroon Bells definitely earn their reputation. All in all it was another great day spent in the hills with great friends! A beautiful rainbow greeted us on Independence Pass that evening.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Thanks for another great climb all! Sorry I had to bail on the traverse, I guess its just another reason to come back
The descent of the standard route went really smoothly and I was back at the car in about 3 hours. The route is easier to follow when you know where it goes
On the way down I got to hang out with these guys...
It wasn't so much expletives, as uncontrollable laughter. Within 100 feet of the trail, you encounter a 20 foot headwall. It's mostly rocks, dirt, and grass, and not really a big deal, but at 5am I just couldn't stop laughing. There was just something about it that was hysterically funny.
Mark, don't worry...we're still going back for the Bell cord next Spring.
Aaron, the good weather day did come at a price. We had to make a sacrifice to the mountain gods. I'm not really sure how to put this, but don't expect to hear from Jamie any time soon...
SarahT, I agree! Jamie told me a really scary story about some beers of yours cooling in a stream one time.
congrats jamie and crew! good weather is hard to find up there... I'm glad you were able to.
It looks like somebody lost it up there that day... that really sucks, did you see anything to do with that?
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