Longs Peak Trip Report 08/15/2007

Peak(s):	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet
Date Posted:	08/15/2007
Date Climbed:	08/01/2007
Author:	dj14

Longs via Keyhole
This was my second attempt at Longs Peak. Last September an early season snowstorm filled the Boulder Field with snow and left the route beyond the Keyhole rated as technical. So, finally, 10 months later I got a second chance. At the last minute my climbing partner called from Telluride to let me know that he wouldn't be able to make it. This would be a solo effort! The plan was to get up at 1:30am and be on the trail by 2:30am. I somehow overslept and just happened to wake up on my own at 2:20am. I quickly dressed while heading for the truck. Fortunately, I was only a few minutes from the trailhead! At 2:42am I signed the trail register and started my climb under a beautiful full moon. After about 10 minutes I realized that there was really no need for my headlamp. I turned it off and found that I could see the trail well enough even through the dense pines. I quickly began to pass other climbers often calling out to them in advance so as not to startle them in the darkness. The first few miles were absolutely incredible. I looked to the east and saw lights from distant cities on the horizon. Looking back up the trail I was drawn ever upward by the moonlight highlighting the terrain up ahead. Somewhere near the Boulder Field the sun began to rise. Upon entering the Boulder Field I was struck by just how good I felt and how thankful I was that I wasn't trudging through the snow that I found here last fall. It was also then that I heard the calls of the many pika in the area. I could just barely see them in the faint light darting in and out of the rocks. Here is a shot of one that ran up to within three feet of me before darting back behind a rock. Having first been distracted by the pika I quickly focused my attention on something else. Strangely, I could actually smell them before I could see them. Straining through the dim morning light I soon saw that there was a herd of about 20 elk that seemed to be just waking from a night in the Boulder Field. They were fairly close and, for the most part, just watched me pass by. Most of them didn't even bother to get up. There was still far too little light to get a decent photo of them. Here you can see the start of the climb up into the Keyhole. You can see a few people up there already. Those that I talked to had spent the night in the Boulder Field. Looking to the left from this position you can see some lingering snow at the top of the Boulder Field. There is a decent little stream flowing from here. This is the last chance for water between here and the summit. Here is a closeup of the Agnes Vaille Memorial Shelter just below the Keyhole. The shelter was built in honor of Agnes Vaille, an accomplished climber, who had an accident during a descent in 1925. Herbert Sortland, a member of the rescue party, died while trying to save her. Vaille died at the site. Finally reaching the Keyhole I was treated to an amazing view of the other side. This is where I also met four fellow climbers...two can be seen in this picture. I completed much of the remaining ascent with them. The exposure here was actually a welcome change following the 6 mile hike. Nothing like staring down hundreds of feet below to get your blood pumping in the morning. It was in this area that I met a climber coming down. I naturally assumed that he had gotten an earlier start, perhaps from the Boulder Field, and was coming down from his summit. He told me plainly that the exposure had freaked him out and that he had come to a point that he just couldn't get past. He was going home. No shame there. The climb up the trough was as challenging as advertised. It was really a beating. It just seems to go on and on and on. This picture is looking up the trough. You can see three of my new climbing partners in the upper right. Just when you think you've made it you have to make your way over or around a large rock at the top of the trough. I started to take a picture of the rock but couldn't get an angle that I thought would do it justice. I also just wanted to get the heck out of the trough! Traversing the narrows leading over to the Homestretch. If you look very closely you can see another climber near the middle of the photo and slightly to the left. That really helps with the scale. I somehow got out of the Homestretch without taking a picture. The climb up was fun....though a little wet in places....but I did see a few people having a tough with the exposure. This was actually one of my favorite parts of the whole climb. Before the ascent, I stopped for a quick snack. What a view! Finally, the summit! The weather was great on top. There was surprisingly little wind. Here you can see Chasm Lake far below. You can just make out the trail leading to the Junction on the left. On the way down I met several people asking for advice on their ascent. I chatted with people from a few different countries and several different states. I know people complain about the crowds here, myself included to a certain extent, but it was really cool to chat briefly with all of the people. Coming back through the Keyhole I was met with what must have been 40-50 mph winds and I noticed that clouds were beginning to form. There were several marmots in the Keyhole as well. The herd of elk that had been sleeping in the Boulder Field had moved down the mountain a little but still didn't seem to terribly concerned with me. As I passed the Chasm Lake Junction it began to rain and then sleet. I couldn't help but wonder about the many people that were ascending so late in the day. It's a wonder that there aren't more accidents on that mountain. Even just a little precip would be a nightmare on the homestretch. I made it back to the trailhead in 12 hours. That includes almost 30 minutes on the summit and several stops on the way down for conversations and photos. This climb was more difficult and more rewarding than I had expected. Those last two miles, miles 15 and 16, really take there toll on the long descent! Thanks to my new friends from Nebraska who, like so many people you meet on the trail and on this site, were eager to help in any way possible. Special thanks to my beautiful wife and three wonderful kids for being so supportive and understanding. If you're headed that way, enjoy your summit! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Longs via Keyhole

This was my second attempt at Longs Peak. Last September an early season snowstorm filled the Boulder Field with snow and left the route beyond the Keyhole rated as technical. So, finally, 10 months later I got a second chance. At the last minute my climbing partner called from Telluride to let me know that he wouldn't be able to make it. This would be a solo effort!

The plan was to get up at 1:30am and be on the trail by 2:30am. I somehow overslept and just happened to wake up on my own at 2:20am. I quickly dressed while heading for the truck. Fortunately, I was only a few minutes from the trailhead! At 2:42am I signed the trail register and started my climb under a beautiful full moon.

After about 10 minutes I realized that there was really no need for my headlamp. I turned it off and found that I could see the trail well enough even through the dense pines. I quickly began to pass other climbers often calling out to them in advance so as not to startle them in the darkness.

The first few miles were absolutely incredible. I looked to the east and saw lights from distant cities on the horizon. Looking back up the trail I was drawn ever upward by the moonlight highlighting the terrain up ahead. Somewhere near the Boulder Field the sun began to rise.

Upon entering the Boulder Field I was struck by just how good I felt and how thankful I was that I wasn't trudging through the snow that I found here last fall. It was also then that I heard the calls of the many pika in the area. I could just barely see them in the faint light darting in and out of the rocks. Here is a shot of one that ran up to within three feet of me before darting back behind a rock.

Having first been distracted by the pika I quickly focused my attention on something else. Strangely, I could actually smell them before I could see them. Straining through the dim morning light I soon saw that there was a herd of about 20 elk that seemed to be just waking from a night in the Boulder Field. They were fairly close and, for the most part, just watched me pass by. Most of them didn't even bother to get up. There was still far too little light to get a decent photo of them.

Here you can see the start of the climb up into the Keyhole. You can see a few people up there already. Those that I talked to had spent the night in the Boulder Field.

Looking to the left from this position you can see some lingering snow at the top of the Boulder Field. There is a decent little stream flowing from here. This is the last chance for water between here and the summit.

Here is a closeup of the Agnes Vaille Memorial Shelter just below the Keyhole. The shelter was built in honor of Agnes Vaille, an accomplished climber, who had an accident during a descent in 1925. Herbert Sortland, a member of the rescue party, died while trying to save her. Vaille died at the site.

Finally reaching the Keyhole I was treated to an amazing view of the other side.

This is where I also met four fellow climbers...two can be seen in this picture. I completed much of the remaining ascent with them.

The exposure here was actually a welcome change following the 6 mile hike. Nothing like staring down hundreds of feet below to get your blood pumping in the morning. It was in this area that I met a climber coming down. I naturally assumed that he had gotten an earlier start, perhaps from the Boulder Field, and was coming down from his summit. He told me plainly that the exposure had freaked him out and that he had come to a point that he just couldn't get past. He was going home. No shame there.

The climb up the trough was as challenging as advertised. It was really a beating. It just seems to go on and on and on. This picture is looking up the trough. You can see three of my new climbing partners in the upper right. Just when you think you've made it you have to make your way over or around a large rock at the top of the trough. I started to take a picture of the rock but couldn't get an angle that I thought would do it justice. I also just wanted to get the heck out of the trough!

Traversing the narrows leading over to the Homestretch. If you look very closely you can see another climber near the middle of the photo and slightly to the left. That really helps with the scale. I somehow got out of the Homestretch without taking a picture. The climb up was fun....though a little wet in places....but I did see a few people having a tough with the exposure. This was actually one of my favorite parts of the whole climb. Before the ascent, I stopped for a quick snack. What a view!

Finally, the summit!

The weather was great on top. There was surprisingly little wind. Here you can see Chasm Lake far below. You can just make out the trail leading to the Junction on the left.

On the way down I met several people asking for advice on their ascent. I chatted with people from a few different countries and several different states. I know people complain about the crowds here, myself included to a certain extent, but it was really cool to chat briefly with all of the people. Coming back through the Keyhole I was met with what must have been 40-50 mph winds and I noticed that clouds were beginning to form. There were several marmots in the Keyhole as well.

The herd of elk that had been sleeping in the Boulder Field had moved down the mountain a little but still didn't seem to terribly concerned with me.

As I passed the Chasm Lake Junction it began to rain and then sleet. I couldn't help but wonder about the many people that were ascending so late in the day. It's a wonder that there aren't more accidents on that mountain. Even just a little precip would be a nightmare on the homestretch.

I made it back to the trailhead in 12 hours. That includes almost 30 minutes on the summit and several stops on the way down for conversations and photos. This climb was more difficult and more rewarding than I had expected. Those last two miles, miles 15 and 16, really take there toll on the long descent! Thanks to my new friends from Nebraska who, like so many people you meet on the trail and on this site, were eager to help in any way possible. Special thanks to my beautiful wife and three wonderful kids for being so supportive and understanding.

If you're headed that way, enjoy your summit!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

twhitfield1	Congrats 8/16/2007 12:27am I will be making my way up to Longs this weekend. Your description/pics make me feel as if I already did it.
kappakamp	Nice Report! 8/18/2007 12:09am I plan on doing this next summer....great job!
14ergirl	Wonderful report! 8/21/2007 8:43am Great job!
Treinfir	Longs Keyhole Route 11/30/2010 5:28pm Thanks for the great trip report and contratulations on summitting! Excellent pics and discussion! I encountered weather and camera problems on my recent trip and regret not getting more pictures. Guess I'll have to do it again some time, maybe via the Loft route. Anyway, it looks like you had a very rewarding climb!
krz2fer	Congratulations 2/5/2011 12:22am on this long haul hike. Seems like you really enjoyed it!

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