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Peak(s):  Mt. Lindsey  -  14,055 feet
Date Posted:  08/01/2007
Date Climbed:   07/29/2007
Author:  Kzar
 Lindsey - Northeast Ridge   

Overall impression: This is a fun climb that never gets too steep, isn't too long and has a fun technical climb along the northwest ridge.
Trip Time: Trailhead to summit 3 hrs, summit to trailhead 3.5 hrs
Miles: 7.8
Elevation: 3,400 feet
Description: This was my second attempt at Lindsey and very glad to summit this time. Last September we faced 70+ mph winds at the ridge and decided it was unsafe to try climbing the ridge. Today the winds were not notable but the entire area was covered in grey clouds, and the summit was submerged in the clouds.

We started out from the Huerfano River Trailhead at 7am. There are camp sites along the trailhead road, at the trailhead itself and along the trail to treeline. At the trailhead there is no water and at the treeline campsite you need to hike down an embankment to get to the small stream for water. We quickly hiked through the valley filled with wildflowers blooming.
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This area has gotten quite a bit of rain lately and it showed in the lower portion of the tail which was quite muddy. The trail dries up after it crosses the river and starts climbing up. On the way up there is a mine on the other side of the river.
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The trail climbs at a good comfortable pace until treeline where you get your first glimpse of Lindsey. Unfortunately today she was hiding in the clouds most of the day.
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At this point the trail flattens out as it crosses the valley. This is a nice breather before you start climbing to the first ridge.
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This portion of the climb is just as steep as the lower climb.
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Once on this ridge it is a short hike to the ridge separating Iron Nipple to the North and Lindsey to the South.
Stay on the hiking trail but turn off quickly to follow the ridge. It is easiest to stay very close to the ridge or slightly to the left of the ridge all the way to the summit. There is exposure following the ridge line but it is not hard to find a line and feel comfortable. This part is class 2 or class 2+.

The crux looks huge and awesome as you approach it. There is no problem finding it or recognizing it, it stands before you as a monster wall. Once you start approaching the wall it becomes less intimidating and you will find it is an easy class 3 scramble until you reach the final assult of 30-40 feet.
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This is the class 4 part. I stayed near the crack for most of the climb and then veered left of the major crack for the final pitch. Here is a pic of someone from Lakewood climbing up right behind me.
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I tried explaining the difference in class 3 vs class 4 climbing to a friend by comparing Lindsey's crux to the final pitch on Wetterhorn. Maybe this will be helpful for others. The difference in the crux vs the final pitch at Wetterhorn is this; Wetterhorn had ledges to fully stand on and almost walk across. Lindsey had individual hand holds and foot holds. On Lindsey you had to follow a line if you will, find a place for your hand, find a place for your foot. Wetterhorn was move your hand up 18" and grab, because there was something there very obvious to grab. The criteria Roach uses in is Colorado Fourteener's books is accurate. It is subtle when reading the description, but after climbing and thinking about it, it makes sense. Class 3 you don't have to look or search for hand holds, Class 4 you have to look. There maybe small knobs the size of your fist, small indentations you can stick your foot into on class 4. Vertically, the two climbs were comparable. Also, Wetterhorn has more exposure. If you fell on Wetterhorn it is a lo-o-o-ong way down. Lindsey was 30 feet or so.

Once at the top there is another short scramble until you start traversing the ridge line again to the false summit. Here are two pics of the climb after the crux.
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The real summit is ~500 yards past the false summit. Today someone made it to the false summit and quickly turned around to head back down. I didn't have the heart the tell them they didn't summit.
At the summit we met two guys from Durango, the guy from Lakewood who was climbing the ridge line with me and the clan from Amarillo. It was a great group to hang with on the summit. I still don't understand climbing in Chuck Taylors but apparently they work well.

My partner, Lois, took the couloir up along with 10 guys from Amarillo, Tx. A word for warning, this route is not safe. On the way up, and on the way down, someone knocked loose rocks about the size of a TV and it both instances it came within 2-3 feet of climbers down below.
Also, when down climbing the crux, toward the bottom of that pitch there is moisture on the uphill side of the rock. You will notice it on the way up. I recommend staying to downhill side to avoid the moisture and not slip on the rocks. I forgot and did a butt plant.
On the way down a mountain was peaking out of the clouds, not sure if it was Blanca or Little Bear or ?
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All in all another great day out in Colorado's high country. Saw elk and lots of deer on the drive in, a hare bounding off the trail and big horn sheep on Iron Nipple's ridge.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
Kzar
User
Stream crossing
8/2/2007 2:06pm
The water was flowing pretty good but it was passable. On the way out we took our boots off to avoid the possibility of falling in. On the way back I used my poles and was able to make it across the logs and rocks pretty easily.


beatlust
nice
7/14/2008 6:48am
im considering the NW ridge as my next hike after just doing wetterhorn so i particularly like your comparison of the two.


Kzar
User
Wetterhorn vs Kit Carson
7/15/2008 1:07am
The NW ridge is definitely the way to go. The standard route up the gulley is loose and dangerous. The class 4 section of Lindsay is short (30 ft?), much shorter than Wetterhorn‘s class 3 section. Also, there is very limited exposure when doing the climb on Lindsay versus the major drop-off on Wetterhorn. The hand holds and foot holds on Lindsay are smaller than Wetterhorn. On Wetterhorn you can basically find handholds the size of a plate and they are abundant. On Lindsay you have to look and use much smaller holds. On Lindsay you actually have to pick a line and search for handholds. If you are ok with that description go for it. My partner got spooked going up and choose the gulley going up. On the way down she followed me down the NW ridge. She had done Wetterhorn but had not done any other technical climbing. I had to help her find the holds and bring her pack down but she made it. She said she preferred the NW ridge over the gulley.

Other than that there are some sections where you traverse a steep slope with some loose rocks. Nothing worse than climbing the gulleys on Wetterhorn. You just need to take your time and you will be fine.


lordhelmut
User
Kzar
11/30/2010 5:20pm
glad you chose the NW ridge, thats a fun scramble, but not too intense. how was the river crossing out of curiosity near the beginning of the trailhead, the big one that is. When we crossed it early last month, it was like a stirred up hornet's nest, due mainly to late spring runoff but with all the showers lately, I wonder if its still roaring. Have a good one.



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