Buying Gear?  Click Here
Buying gear? Please use these links to help

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Mt. Eolus  -  14,083 feet
North Eolus  -  14,039 feet
 Post Date:  07/31/2007
 Date Climbed:   07/30/2007
 Posted By:  summitridge

 Mt. Eolus and North Eolus--Day Two in Chicago Basin   

Old Ickabod and I spent the early morning (3:30 am) waiting for the rain to stop. We delayed our departure until 5:45 am to avoid the rain. We were up above the headwall in a little less than an hour and headed up into the basin below Mt. Eolus.


Looking back at Windom Peak from in the basin below Mt. Eolus at about 13,000 feet.

The ledges below Eolus are solid if not a little slippery from all of the run off, and the route is easy to follow.


Old Ickabod climbs the ledges around 13,800 feet.


Climbing the groove in the rock at the saddle between Mt. Eolus and North Eolus. The rock is extremely solid.

We chose to climb North Eolus first because there were several climbers already on the upper slopes of Eolus.


Old Ickabod heading up the ridge to the summit of North Eolus on excellent rock.


Looking at Sunlight and Windom from the summit of North Eolus.


Looking over at Eolus from the summit of North. The ridge looks a little hairy, but the ledge system is very solid.


Here I am coming across the "catwalk"--we think. The catwalk is airy, but the rock is solid and the handholds abound. We definitely were expecting a much more intimidating ridge than what we encountered. In fact it was hard to locate the exact catwalk that Roach describes.


A good look at a typical ledge on the upper part of Mt. Eolus. A climber can easily find more difficult rock--by choice or accidently like we did a few times.


Another view of the connecting ridge and the catwalk from Eolus.


Fellow climbers descending the ledges of Eolus. The responsiblity to climbers below is paramount on this mountain. The rocks that are somewhat loose are huge and deadly.


The goats greeted us each day and sometimes blocked our way.

We were off Eolus and North Eolus before 10 am and headed down to camp. We hoped to beat the daily rain and be packed and down before getting soaked again. We broke camp and were on the trail by noon. The rain held off and we make a quick hike to the Needleton flag stop to wait the almost two hours for our 3:45 pickup and return to Durango.

The train ride home was long and slow, but the McDonalds next to the depot hit the spot! For a trip that started out so wet, it worked out well, and we safely climbed all the peaks we had planned.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

  • Comments or Questions
Old Ickabod

Great Report     2011-02-04 17:22:13
As always, world class pics from Summit Ridge! He should sell these!


Jayhawk     2010-11-30 10:28:39
Awesome! Great one of your ”fellow climbers” in the photos, I couldn't agree more. Right on.


Thanks     2007-07-31 22:33:55
I guess we should have exchanged screen names with all the people we met the last few days.


Good Climbers     2007-08-01 11:12:10
You guys really tore it up. It was good to meet you on a great climb albeit a very soggy weekend. Sixteen more to go...

moon stalker

Great shots of the route     2010-11-30 10:28:39
You really got good shots of the route. I usually pull out my camera after I get to the top or only for the sunrise or moon! Good to run into you guys, and yes we should have exchanged screen names . I ended up sitting next to some really nice people from Northern VA (I'm from Tidewater) on the train. Hopefully you guys found a spot and didn't have to stand the whole way. Obviously you guys got home safe, I'm glad I didn't hear of single-vehicle accident by a Jeep on Wolf Creek Pass or something similar! Now I just have to check the web and see who won the Tour de France! I still don't know. That's what I get for going backpacking/climbing for 5 days.

   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2015®, 14ers Inc.