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Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,259 feet
Date Posted:  07/04/2007
Date Climbed:   07/02/2007
Author:  gwright
 Longs - keyhole   

As suggested by many, I hit the trailhead early, 1:50 a.m. as far as I could tell with my eyes closed. 10 minutes earlier I left behind my sleeping boys and supportive wife in the tent at the Longs Peak Camp Grounds. With headlamp blazing, granola bar and coffee in the gut, I began my ascent through the evergreen forest under a full moon with slightly cloudy skies. It didn't take long for my sleepless mind to begin thinking about Mr. Bear and all his furry friends. This is a lonely hike and with the headlamp dimly casting its light only a few feet ahead, the trail seemed very narrow with vast, dark, and spooky surroundings. I must have sung every song I know, which isn't many so there were multiple repeats. Rocky Raccoon was at the top of the list. As I bellowed out my tunes, I'm sure the bears were running for cover out of their own fright.

It didn't take too long to reach tree line and the openness of the tundra as the moon cast a new light on the surroundings. It was here that I really began to enjoy this hike. I reached the Jim Grove camping area (which is closed due to overuse) around 3:45 and continued up around Mount Lady Washington. As I looked back down the mountain, I could see that others were not far behind. It was enjoyable to watch the headlamps of the other hikers behind, meandering their way up the same trail. I would later meet one of these guys, Geoffrey, at the keyhole, and the other, Mathew, on the summit.

The rising sun found me resting at the base of the boulder field at around 5:20.
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Simultaneously, the moon was still hanging out above the keyhole
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It was here that I saw the camera flashes from the keyhole. This group must have had a sweet view of the sunrise. (I later learned that they had started at 11:30 pm, July 1st).
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I finally made the keyhole at 6:15 and waited for Geoffrey to catch me so that I would have some company on the next section of the climb. This plan turned out to be smart, as Geoffrey had climbed Longs before. He went ahead and I followed about 10 minutes behind. The view on either side of the keyhole is simply fantastic.
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I found the ledges to be a nice respite from the bolder field and the exposure to be less intimidating than expected. There are a few patches of snow along the way, each complete with established footsteps to mark the trail. I found my axe to be useful support and for peace-of-mind, but it was not completely necessary. I met and passed the threesome that were at the keyhole during sunrise and headed to the trough.

The conditions of the trough? If one was so inclined, he/she could climb the length of the trough without encountering any snow. This would require some creativity, meandering on and off the marked trail. Most of the snow is on climbers right and is patchy but continues most of the length. After about 100 feet or so, I decided the route through the snow looked like the best choice as I snuck a peek ahead and could see that Geoffrey was working awkwardly back and forth across the trail. After gearing up, I began trudging up the snow and felt this was the right choice. The snow was still crisp at 7:00ish a.m. and I was able to make a straight line up the trough.
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I didn't remove the crampons until 100 feet or so from the top. I could tell this was the right move as I was catching Geoffrey and moving further ahead of the climbers below.
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Once atop the trough, I enjoyed the remarkable view of the surrounding mountains and then turned to the narrows.
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I also found this section to be less intimidating than expecting. I had built up a measurable level of anxiety regarding the exposure to be encountered here and was relieved that the trail was clear and easy to follow. To be sure, you don't want to trip here, but you would have to be careless to find trouble. I found the trough, with its loose rocks and snow patches to be more of a risk than either of the ledges or the narrows.

After the narrows the homestretch loomed ahead. The homestretch is completely dry but very steep. This was a tough section as my body was beginning to complain. However, it was easy to find my way, the trail is marked very well and before I knew it, at 8:15 I had reached the summit. I spoke to my wife and boys via walkie-talkie and they peered through binoculars at the summit and claimed to have seen me smiling in the morning sun.
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Geoffrey was already there and we enjoyed 30 minutes on the summit alone. We were 1 and 2 for the day. And it was good. Mathew made his way to the top soon and then he and Geoffrey headed for the descent. I stayed another 20 minutes, alone, until a group of three others made the summit. I took that opportunity to hit the trail back down.

The return trip found the snow to be unacceptable for a descent and I made my way down the driest rock I could find which was a good 15 or 20 feet to climbers' right of the marked trail. I encountered many others heading up and was satisfied that I had started early enough to sit on the summit alone.

Cruising across the ledges, through the keyhole, down the boulder field, around Mount Lady Washington, I decided to take the trail around towards Chasm Lake instead of the Jim Grove trail that I used to ascend. This proved to be a good option as the trail was in better condition and I encountered some furry friendlies along the way. Mother and her calf were a joy to see as they lumbered up the slope.
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I then kicked it into high gear and made my way home. Longs' Peak makes for a long and arduous climb and descent but one of the most rewarding in regards of the variety of conditions and terrain as well as the views from the summit, keyhole and narrows. I can now understand the allure of the mountain that brings the masses each year. It was all in all, a very good day.

The pace quickened as I recalled the ice cold Terrapin Ale back at camp. OH YEA!



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
wasclywabbit
User
Super
7/5/2007 3:59am
Great report. It looked like a wonderful way to spend the day.


krz2fer
User
Not much snow!
7/5/2007 5:24pm
Glad to see a TR bring good snow related news in early July. Nice job on the trek!


InaweofGodscreation
Nice!
7/6/2007 4:37pm
I love sharing in the excitement when people summit Longs for the first time. It is by far my favorite mountain in Colorado, and I am glad you enjoyed it!


Rockymtnhigh69
User
Great Report
7/13/2007 3:23pm
Great job!
I am climbing Longs for the first time next Wednesday morning.. This was helpful..



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