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 Peak(s):  Crestone Peak  -  14,294 feet
Crestone Needle  -  14,197 feet
Broken Hand Pk  -  13,573 feet
 Post Date:  05/24/2007
 Date Climbed:   05/28/2006
 Posted By:  SarahT

 Crestone Traverse & Broken Hand   

Crestone Peak (14,294)
Crestone Needle (14,197)
Broken Hand Peak (13,573)
From Cottonwood Creek TH

Cast of Characters:

Crestone Peak: Keith & Beth Bershader, Jeff & Jean Kunkle, Bob Dawson, Dwight Sunwall, and Sarah Thompson

Traverse to Crestone Needle: Bob, Dwight, and Sarah

Broken Hand Peak: Dwight and Sarah

Saturday, May 27th – We all (minus Bob) met at 8am at Jeff and Jean's house in Castle Rock, loaded up two vehicles, and were on the road shortly afterwards with Beth behind the wheel in the "girls car" and Jeff driving the "guys car" which included Denali, the super stick-eating dog. After a quick stop for a delicious lunch at Country Bounty in Salida, we continued on to the Cottonwood Creek trailhead in Crestone. There are now no parking signs at the actual trailhead but we found a fine place to park 50 feet or so before the trailhead. We started hiking up the trail around 2. Initially the trail was easy to follow but became more difficult to find the higher we went. Dwight flagged the way for Bob who would be packing in later. After a couple of breaks, we found a great place to set up camp around 11,200 feet where the trail splits (the northeast fork leads to Cottonwood Lake and the east fork leads toward Milwaukee Peak and Pico Asilado). Bob joined us a few hours later.

Sunday, May 28th – We set out on the trail leading northeast toward Cottonwood Lake around 6am. Above treeline there seems to be many possible routes and there are useless cairns everywhere. Dwight led us up the east side of the creek until Crestone Peak's famous Red Couloir came into view. We worked our way to the base of the couloir, stopping along the way to put on more clothes as the wind became a nuisance. Much of the couloir was melted out, but Jeff and Jean were able to do a reasonable snowclimb almost the entire way up (although it was a tad icy and rocky in places). The rest of us scrambled up solid rock on the east side of the couloir most of the way, although we did end up putting on our crampons to climb 100 feet or so in the upper portion. At the top of the couloir, Dwight and I headed for Crestone Peak's 14,260 foot east summit, the Custer County highpoint, while Keith, Beth and Bob headed for the true summit. The scramble to the east summit was nothing and Dwight and I reached it in a matter of minutes, signed the register (first ones this year), and headed over to join the others on the real summit. Roach says the scramble to the east summit is slightly harder than the scramble to the main summit, but I don't know why. Dwight and I both felt it was kind of a joke.

The weather was looking somewhat questionable and we had to decide whether we were going to go ahead with our plans of giving the traverse to Crestone Needle a shot. It was cloudy and windy, but it didn't really seem like it was going to storm. Although there were clouds directly overhead, we could see a lot of nice blue sky in the immediate vicinity. We decided to start on the traverse and see what developed. We started to descend and ran into Jeff and Jean who had just reached the top of the couloir after their snowclimb. They continued on toward Crestone Peak as we continued down. When we reached 13,800 feet or so we began searching for the ledge system leading southeast toward the Needle. Luckily, Bob had remembered to bring Roach's route description along (thanks, Bob!). At this point, Keith and Beth bailed and decided to continue down and considered climbing Crestone Needle from the standard route. After some looking, we found the ledge system around 13,750 feet. We took our time and were able to stay mostly on route with no major problems by stopping every once in a while to read Roach's description and by looking around and using common sense to find what we thought to be the most sensible option. It was like finding our way through a maze and since there are many twists and turns and several good descriptions exist, I will not attempt to describe the details here. Although there were small patches of snow on the route, they didn't really complicate things any and we never needed our axes or crampons. Finally, we reached the crux – and what a crux it was! The 100 foot wall leading to Crestone Needle's summit stood before us, at first not looking too imposing. Dwight went first, while Bob brought up the rear. I don't know exactly how they felt on that wall - maybe they will add their two cents later. Personally, the first third or so was easy for me, but the further up I got, the more I realized how severe the exposure was. The wall seemed to get steeper, but that could very well have been the exposure weighing in on my perception. It was very exhilarating, and I was concentrating fully on every move I made, knowing one mistake could be fatal. But alas, the fun was short-lived and I quickly topped out. I watched Bob climbing the last 10 feet or so and was awed by the sight – nothing but air all around him! Although this section is rated class 4 and I've never had a problem downclimbing class 4 terrain, I don't think I would downclimb this. We walked the last bit to the summit and exchanged high fives for a job well done. This was the first of the four great traverses for Dwight and I and let me tell you – I sure am looking forward to the other three!

We were feeling a bit worn out and I suspect some part of that was due to dealing with the annoying wind for a large part of the day. After a little break, we quickly set off down the Needle's standard route as Bob had to pack out that night . When we reached Broken Hand Pass, the wind was just atrocious. Fighting to keep an upright position, Dwight and I said goodbye to Bob who headed back toward camp. Dwight and I continued on toward Broken Hand Peak. Fighting the strong wind which threatened to throw us over the edge, we tried to head directly for the peak from the pass. This was a mistake. We ended up on a large, 200 foot tower that was overhanging on the other side. This was not good news for our tired bodies. We downclimbed the tower which was not a particularly easy thing to do. My advice for anyone climbing this peak is that if you find yourself on terrain that is harder than easy class 3, you're not on route. After that setback, we contoured south around the tower and then headed east toward the summit which we reached with no further complications. Luckily, we found a place to sit on the north side out of the wind. After a short break, we descended southwest toward the Broken Hand – "Crestolita" saddle. We had hopes of climbing "Crestolita" too and knew from Ryan Schilling's trip report that the best bet was up a couloir on the north side. Well, the couloir was filled with snow. We went over and checked it out and it looked like a great snowclimb, but because I need some practice with self arrest, it did not look like a very safe idea. So we decided to save it for another day and headed back to camp. What a day!

 


  • Comments or Questions (5)
Jcwhite


Nice write up     2011-02-04 17:22:13
Was there snow on the summit of Crestone Peak?


SarahT


Did you catch this report is from last year?     2010-11-30 10:28:36
People were interested in reading it so I just posted it. There was no snow on Crestone Peak last year at this time, but of course this year is drastically different. There's a ton more snow!


Jcwhite


oops     2007-05-25 04:18:00
totally didnt notice that


cftbq


Merci!     2010-11-30 10:28:36
Thanks a million--a nicely detailed description. One of these days (FLW), I'm going to give it a try, but I'll definitely be looking for someone who's done it before and would like to repeat to bolster my courage on that crux!


maverick_manley


amazing climb...     2010-11-30 10:28:36
”Personally, the first third or so was easy for me, but the further up I got, the more I realized how severe the exposure was. The wall seemed to get steeper, but that could very well have been the exposure weighing in on my perception.”

You guys are freaking strong doing all that in one day. Like you say, there's a lot more snow on Peak and Needle this year. We climbed the needle yesterday and I do believe the wall got steeper higher up. We needed to stay off the cairned route to avoid ice and found ourselves ascending and descending sustained 4th and occasional low 5th class terrain with 40lb packs without pro. I've a cool pic of Lord Helmut ascending a vertical wall just below summit on the South Face at one point.



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