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Peak(s)  Unnamed 13155  -  13,155 feet
Uncompahgre Peak  -  14,318 feet
Date Posted  07/24/2026
Date Climbed   06/08/2026
Author  Tim A
 Heir of Uncompahgre   

Uncompahgre has three 13ers south and east of it that are in prime position for sunrise photography looking towards the giant 14er during summer, when the sun rises so far north that it throws shadow across the long south ridge of Unc and properly lights up the vertical north face. I opted to climb them as two separate morning trips to take advantage of this and lucked out with moody colorful sunrises both days, and thought these peaks deserve more attention given how simple they are and the views they pack.


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Gold hour on UN 13,155


When researching trip reports for this hike, I noticed that many early reports labeled this peak and it's sisters with their elevations pre-LIDAR, which was a reminder that every time new measurements are taken, the names of these peaks will change. One more reason we need some actual names for these peaks. UN13,155 (or whatever it may be when you're reading this in future years) in particular is clearly visible from Slumgullion pass and deserves a better name than it's current elevation. See my report on the Sangres UN 13,577 for more of my unsolicited thoughts on why naming some of these 13ers does everyone a service. I digress.


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It looks more like a tooth than the Moose's Tooth, or El Diente, so why not Henson Tooth?

For the rest of this report I will refer to UN 13,155 as Little Uncompahgre. It looks like a miniature of the larger 14er from Slumgullion and from the further east UN 13,110, so why not call it something people might actually remember? I hiked these a little more than a month ago and had to use 14ers.com to look up their names because nobody remembers a series of numbers. Further, it's dehumanizing and these peaks have enough personality to be given a little humanity. If someone has a different name for it, I'll call it that publicly instead. It just needs a name. I digress.

I'd read mixed reports on if the upper TH for Nellie Creek is drivable in a Subaru. The great human forum of knowledge known as Reddit was split between "yes, it's easy" to "you will utterly destroy your car." Normally I would just drive it as far as comfortable, but I read consistently that there were few places to turn around, and I had the time and a terrible forecast the day before to scout the road on foot. On June 7, with the wind audibly howling off the peaks above, I walked the road from bottom to top and was pleased that both water crossings were low given the drought year, and apart from a single muddy hole about 3/4 of the way up, it would be a simple drive. I also scouted a phenomenal campsite nestled in some trees by the open meadow 1/4 mile below the upper TH which looked like a great place to spend a few nights bagging these peaks.

On the hike up and back, I was passed by several groups of loud ATVers, some with questionable sobriety. I hadn't been to LC area in a while, since before Silverton went nuclear on the off-roaders and Lake City assumed the mantle of haven for them. I hope "all that money" LC is raking in from hosting them is enough to cover the cost of road repairs, because those things are not gentle on steeper gradients or hairpin turns and they move a lot of dirt when they rev through. I digress again.


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The lone road obstacle, bypassable on the left side.


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UN 13,110 (also deserving of a name) towering over the upper TH area. Campsite occupied by a different vehicle on the right side.

Strava showed 8.34 miles and +2149'. Not a bad way to stretch on a red flag wind day when being up higher would have been unpleasant.

Back at the car, I spent the day in LC before driving the road back up to the meadow that evening and finding it unoccupied. Early to sleep, then started the remaining road at 230am. Opted to leave my car claiming the campsite so I'd have a quiet flat place to return to for the afternoon and evening. Short walk up to the TH where it was empty at this hour. From here, it's a short walk up the trail towards Uncompahgre before picking a spot to leave the trail and head south towards Little Unc.

None of the other TRs for this peak had done the approach in the dark, but the terrain looked gentle from all the pictures I saw, so I assumed it would be straightforward and it was. Left the trail and jumped the creek shortly past the Big Blue Trail turnoff and continued south, working around taller mounds of talus on the rock glacier spilling down from Little Unc. The nearly full moon provided enough light to sort of piece together gentle sections of elevation gain as I worked towards the base of the ridge.


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From the clearing at the TH. Iphone 15 handheld is surprisingly good at astro.


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Base of Little Unc.

Gaining the north ridge of Little Uncompahgre would be the crux of all three of Unc's children. A few snowfields blocked the easiest access to the top, and though I had packed an ice axe and microspikes, I didn't want to deal with putting them on. I traced the edge of one of the snowfields on some very loose and steep tundra and talus and scampered up to the ridge. Getting down that would be very unpleasant, but a different problem for a different hour.


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On the ridge looking at Little Uncompahgre.

Once on the ridge, it goes at fun class 3 if you drift left, but a climber's trail drifts to the right and keeps the route class 2 all the way up. I took the easy path up and the class 3 down when the sun was up. This would be a reasonable place for new to class-3 scramblers coming and doing some laps to grow their comfort with exposure. The rock on the ridge crest was very solid.

I arrived on the summit at 5am and with sunrise expected at 530am, that gave me time to photograph blue hour and eat some breakfast. I was a little concerned about getting a gray sunrise given some clouds were gathering on the eastern horizon and threatened to block the sunrise. Waking up this early for a sunrise photo shoot only to get skunked by a few clouds during the prime minutes of alpenglow is a first-world frustration.


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If the sun reaches the gap before the clouds close, you get the most magnificent sunrise imaginable. If the gap is closed, you get nothing.


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The north ridge of Little Unc connecting with the cliffy south ridge of Unc. Moody clouds could either blow up red and pink or stay gray.


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Redcloud and friends dry af for June 8.

Unfortunately, the window of horizon light shut just before sunrise, so there would be no alpenglow or big fiery clouds underlit. When the sun finally did burst above the horizon cloud layer, there was enough gold to make the wakeup worth it.


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Peep the Hawaiian sweet rolls, a classic alpine breakfast item.


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Just missed the red.


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Long shadow cast by Uncompahgre across Matterhorn and Wetterhorn.


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The glowing cliffs of Little Unc's north face.


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Summer sunrise makes for nice high contrast pictures for north faces.


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Some familiar names from 14ers.com. Surprised to see I missed Kiefer and Regina by a day on such an obscure peak.


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Second register.


I lounged around up on Little Unc for well over 2 hours enjoying the changing light and munching on sweet rolls. While hanging out up there, I decided to go for Uncompahgre despite not being super interested in bagging it initially. I've attempted it three times before in snow and turned around for various reasons, and really wanted to bag it in snow still.


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December 2015: turned around after hiking most of the road in a storm. Concern for avalanches after such a big dump.



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Unc in March 2016. Turned around because of bonking at around 13,500.


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Little Uncompahgre from March 2016, near my highpoint for the day.



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Uncompahgre from the West after attempting the couloirs in May, 2016. I fell asleep leaning on my ice axe in the couloir apron and decided to turn around and live.




With the wind being only mildly annoying this day and nothing else to do until the next day's sunrise from UN 13,110, I opted to add Unc despite it being dry and less photogenic than any other time I'd been this close to it. I could also avoid downclimbing back into the bowl I'd come up by hiking down the south slopes of Little Unc into the unnamed basin down there east of Broken Hill. This went very easy on mostly mild grassy slopes, though I paused regularly to consider traversing the slopes below Unc's cliffy south ridge. It looked steep and loose enough that I eventually gave up on minimizing the loss and so dropped all the way down to the basin before cutting back west to meet back up with the trail from Matterhorn Creek heading up Unc's shoulder. This was an enjoyable hike for an hour without a soul to be seen.


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Dropping Little Unc's north ridge. Grassy slopes to drop south seen in shadow lower left. The route of ascent on the right side is probably heinous no matter the time of year.



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Looking back at Little Uncompahgre.


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Unc's spinal south ridge. Not enough prominence to make it it's own summit between Unc and Little Unc, which is probably for the best because it's a crumbling pile of garbage.



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In the basin looking west at Broken Hill.


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Back on a trail for the rest of the day.


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Little Uncompahgre from a side rarely seen.

Once the trail from Matterhorn Creek links up with the standard route from Nellie Creek, the solitude ends, but the views of Little Uncompahgre continue as one works the tedious switchbacks up the greater Uncompahgre.



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Little Unc from the shoulder between parent and heir.



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Like Uncompahgre, Little Unc has a precipitous north face and gentle southern slopes.


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The boring part commences.


There's not much to say about ascending the trail to Unc. It's well graded, the scramble on the backside of Unc is more fun than I thought it would be, and the final summit pitch after the scramble is fairly demoralizing on tired legs.


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Broken Hill and the colorful mining ruins surrounding it.


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Moonscape.


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Broken Hill's disintegrating east face. Not an attractive mountain from any angle.


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Is Uncompahgre a father or a mother to the lower 13er children? The answer was found on the scramble.



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Above the scramble, looking towards Coxcomb and friends.

Once through the scramble the tedium of a 14er standard route got more interesting as I sat to have a snack and drink my gatorade. Just as I was opening the bottle, I noticed little flakes suspended in solution inside the bottle. I shook the bottle but they didn't dissolve. Took out my phone and had a conversation with two chat bots about what was going on. There wasn't agreement between them: Gemini thought since it was 6 months from expiring, it might just be oils or flavoring agents that fell out of solution given the elevation (over 14,000' at the snack spot). Chat was more conservative and said given the history of the bottle sitting in a warm car trunk for a few days prior, it might be mold.

I sat there for 20 minutes giving these two chatbots all the information I could think of to justify drinking that electrolyte up there, but in the end it felt too risky and so I poured it out to rid myself of the weight the rest of the day. I generally drink a full 28oz of gatorade (one of the big bottles) and a full nalgene on hikes of this length, but also carry an additional 32oz Nalgene "just in case," so I wasn't going to perish from dehydration up there, but I was missing the electrolytes. Shout out to the various parties I met on the summit who gave me some salt tablets and cliff blocks. You guys kept it from becoming a bonkey type-2 day.


Summit views from Unc were expansive but given the late morning sunlight and thin snowpack, I'd still like to get back in winter or spring to catch better pictures.


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I had no idea much of the visible forest in this picture would be consumed by fire a few weeks later.


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Unc's north face drops so good.


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Nobody on the Wetterhorn during the hour I spent on Unc's summit.


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The Wilson's holding snow when everything else has given up. As usual.


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American Peak guarding the Grenadiers.


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Broken Hill looks like little more than an anthill from this high up. But it has a name while "Little Uncompahgre" languishes in numeric-named obscurity.



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The classic shot of Unc's north face and plateau.



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Some geologic hoodoo sculpting in progress on the backside of Uncompahgre.


The descent back to the meadow campsite was a non-event and I enjoyed a long afternoon and evening there before returning to the upper Nellie TH the following morning for Uncompahgre's shorter two children.



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Apparently hiking (part of) the road 2 days in a row makes one a legend.





Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
d_baker
User
I like
7/25/2026 1:57pm
Little Nellie.

Those are great walking 13ers around that area!


astranko
User
Names
7/28/2026 9:18am
I understand the frustration about the names of peaks changing. There is something I like about the little bit of obscurity. There are so many wonderful peaks that are UN 13XXX. That little bit of knowing when you encounter someone who has a list of favorites off the dome (UN 13166) or those of ill repute (UN 13022, UN 13170) is something I appreciate.


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