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Report Type 
Mini
Peak(s)  Unnamed 13068  -  13,068 feet
Date Posted  07/22/2026
Modified  07/23/2026
Date Climbed   07/21/2026
Author  gtrett
 An Overall Pleasant Route Up 13,068   

I would consider this route to consist of the following key parts:

  1. The very well established approach trail
  2. The grass ramp
  3. The bump
  4. The notch
  5. The summit
  6. The false summit

Follow the same road/trail for the standard routes for Blanca/Ellingwood. About 1.1 miles past Lake Como (where the trail tops out above Blue Lakes), veer left across a stream via easy boulder hopping and up toward the fairly obvious grass ramp. Make your way up a short section of scree/boulders toward the grass. Once on the grass, there are actually a couple ledges that make for a good ascent here. I noticed one cairn along the way. It does not appear to be the same ascent described in Ellingwood's Southwest Ridge Route, but you could presumably use either to gain the ridge. I found the grass ramp to be a very pleasant way up.

23584_01
Once on the grass, heading up to the 13068/Ellingwood saddle.

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The one cairn seen on the grass ramp, Ellingwood right of center.

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A look down the ramp.

Once on the ridge, go toward "the bump," which is just the next high point on the ridge toward 13,068. It is easy grass ledges/rock hopping.

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The bump (center) and 13,068 (back right).

Descend "the bump" and arrive at "the notch." This was my least favorite part of the route as it is very loose - I was happy to have my helmet. Going toward the peak, I descended climber's left on loose rock, which was able to be kept mostly Class 2 but was not all that enjoyable. I would say there are multiple ways both up and down the notch section, so just do what feels best.

23584_05
Looking down into the notch with 13,068 in the background.

It is hard to tell when initially descending into the notch from the bump, but on the return I was able to see that it does not cliff out and was able to climb up a slightly more solid section (Class 3, but still loose, likely due to the lack of activity in the area).

23584_09
Looking into "the notch" from "the bump."

Once in the notch, I found it best to go climber's right (Pioneer Lake side) of the obstacle in middle (the first time I went on the other side and it was much looser and far steeper).

23584_06
Looking toward the bump from the other side of the notch. The large rock in the foreground of this photo is what I would recommend going around on the Pioneer Lake side.

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Here are photos of the notch from the trail below. The gully looks like you could reasonably descend it if you wanted, but it does not appear to be the fun scree for skiing so I found it better to just go back over the bump and take the grass ramp down.

After you make your way out of the notch, regain the ridge. From here, it is an easy (long) ridge walk to the summit with the occasional ups/downs and wobbly boulders. Once on the summit, it does look like the true summit might be further; however, the pin on 14ers.com is correct. I went over just to double check, and it was the most fun/solid rock of the day in my opinion.

23584_07
The view from the false summit, which gives a nice look at 13,068's true summit surrounded by its 14er friends.

From here, simply return the way you came. I will caution that from the ridge between 13,068 and the false summit, it deceptively appears to be an easy gully descent down to Lake Como. However, keep in mind from earlier in the day that when looking up from the lake, it is all cliffs.

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Looking down toward Lake Como from the 13,068/false summit saddle.

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Looking up at the cliffs from Lake Como.


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13


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