| Report Type | Mini |
| Peak(s) |
Unnamed 13068 - 13,068 feet |
| Date Posted | 07/22/2026 |
| Modified | 07/23/2026 |
| Date Climbed | 07/21/2026 |
| Author | gtrett |
| An Overall Pleasant Route Up 13,068 |
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I would consider this route to consist of the following key parts:
Follow the same road/trail for the standard routes for Blanca/Ellingwood. About 1.1 miles past Lake Como (where the trail tops out above Blue Lakes), veer left across a stream via easy boulder hopping and up toward the fairly obvious grass ramp. Make your way up a short section of scree/boulders toward the grass. Once on the grass, there are actually a couple ledges that make for a good ascent here. I noticed one cairn along the way. It does not appear to be the same ascent described in Ellingwood's Southwest Ridge Route, but you could presumably use either to gain the ridge. I found the grass ramp to be a very pleasant way up.
Once on the ridge, go toward "the bump," which is just the next high point on the ridge toward 13,068. It is easy grass ledges/rock hopping.
Descend "the bump" and arrive at "the notch." This was my least favorite part of the route as it is very loose - I was happy to have my helmet. Going toward the peak, I descended climber's left on loose rock, which was able to be kept mostly Class 2 but was not all that enjoyable. I would say there are multiple ways both up and down the notch section, so just do what feels best.
It is hard to tell when initially descending into the notch from the bump, but on the return I was able to see that it does not cliff out and was able to climb up a slightly more solid section (Class 3, but still loose, likely due to the lack of activity in the area).
Once in the notch, I found it best to go climber's right (Pioneer Lake side) of the obstacle in middle (the first time I went on the other side and it was much looser and far steeper).
After you make your way out of the notch, regain the ridge. From here, it is an easy (long) ridge walk to the summit with the occasional ups/downs and wobbly boulders. Once on the summit, it does look like the true summit might be further; however, the pin on 14ers.com is correct. I went over just to double check, and it was the most fun/solid rock of the day in my opinion.
From here, simply return the way you came. I will caution that from the ridge between 13,068 and the false summit, it deceptively appears to be an easy gully descent down to Lake Como. However, keep in mind from earlier in the day that when looking up from the lake, it is all cliffs.
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