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Peak(s)  Longs Peak  -  14,259 feet
Date Posted  07/13/2026
Date Climbed   07/05/2026
Author  salittle
 Longs - Loft Route   

Was lucky enough to snag a camping spot in the Longs Peak Campground. I was shocked with it being 4th of July weekend and there was availability. Simply drove up there to see the trailhead and just get a feel. Started just after 6am. Was originally going to do the Standard Classic Keyhole route and someone had mentioned if I am comfortable with route finding and class 3 I should give the Loft route up a go and the Keyhole back to my car. After looking into it further and downloading the pics from 14ers.com I decided to give it a go! I started just after 6am. Getting to Chasm Lake was quick and very straight forward. I was so happy to see how beautiful the moraine was just below the lake. There was a handful of people heading to the lake. After the Lake turn off, the route finding begins. I did filter and topped off all my bottles here before making the ascent into the Loft couloir. There really is not path and VERY few cairns. So it was about zig-zagging up the couloir and keeping left of the Ship's Prow. When you get to the top stay left of the very wet rocks and you will see "ramps" exiting the couloir to get up to the Loft.

This is where I let my desire to "Summit" get me off course. I headed straight up the "Beaver" and found myself in a predicament because there is no way off the Beaver safely because of the "Notch". So I backtracked back down and got back on course with the help of the pics from 14ers.com. I did end up wasting a good chunk of time because I was sure I could make my way to the summit. Trust me, you can not, not safely anyway. After back tracking down off the Beaver and getting back on course I was able to make my way just fine. Beware, this route does require a few 4th class down climb moves, so be sure you are comfy with that before heading on this route. Follow the pics and directions in 14ers.com for this route closely to stay safe. Stick close to the palisades once you enter Keplinger's Couloir. There were no cairns so I took the path that looked most appealing to my eyes. At the top of the couloir you will see the Notch on your left and follow the ramps to the right to get you up to the Homestretch! The Homestretch is a little slick as the rock is getting more and more polished so watch your footing.

Once I reached the summit, there was NO ONE up there until a ranger popped up the east face after checking on a party that was on the wall. It was SO surreal with it being a Sunday, a holiday weekend, and there was no one up there until I was leaving and 3 young men came up the Keyhole route.

I descended the Keyhole route and saw a decent amount of people on the way out. There was very little snow in the Trough, plenty of rocks to walk on to avoid the snow.

I thoroughly enjoyed this loop and would recommend it if you are comfortable with route finding and a little class 4 down climb. Just pay close attention to the pics and directions in 14ers.com




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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