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Debbie, my buddies Jon and Josh and I did the Loft route on Longs this Saturday. There was a significant amount of ice on the ledges used to gain the Loft, but not enought to warrent crampons. Here is a pic of the upper most ledge:
55+ gusts were fun to battle across the flats. We found a nice shortcut to get below the Palisades. Heres a hint: look for cairns leading right about 50 feet down the scree gully, they lead you into a rubble/boulder filled chute which you can downclimb into the bottom of a wide couloir. This route is slighly harder than the Keyhole climbing wise. The summit was nice for the second time, but windy. A descent of the Keyhole provided a very nice tour de Longs.
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