Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
In the spirit of the approaching winter, I thought i'd finally get around to writing a trip report for this past seasons 14er skiing adventures.
Let us begin...
Mt. Sneffles Birthday Chutes 04/07/16
Solo
If I recall correctly, this was one of the first periods of the season where reasonably stable snow conditions could be found across most of the the San Juan Range. A high pressure system kept the precipitation at bay, and warm temperatures started the typical spring freeze/thaw cycle - I was stoked. My usual ski partners however, couldn't swing the last minute trip because of this thing they all had to do called "work" or something like that... CAIC called for LOW avy danger on all aspects and in combination with my own observations, felt confident enough to make the long haul down there solo. I left my trip plan with a few friends and began the hike up the road to Yankee Boy Basin from the gate closure. The approach was pretty straight forward and the stars were absolutely incredible in the dim moon light. The trees began to fade and before I knew it, I found myself booting up towards the col with the sun rising.
Alpenglow on Dallas Peak
Looking up the gully from the col
Summit of Sneffles with Dallas Peak and the Wilsons in the background
I probably could have waited another hour or so before dropping in since the snow was still quite firm, but I was ready to make some turns
Back in the basin, I crossed paths with another group coming up to ski the snake. I didn't realise it at the time, but later found out that it was Ben, Brian, and Rick. Check out their TR of skiing the Snake here:
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=16874&parmpeak=Mt.+Sneffels&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Only
Pyramid Peak NE Ridge Ski 4500 Vertical
8 Miles RT
05/21/16
Crew: Jon Kedrowski, Brad Burgtorf, Eric Sangueza
With the Bells and Pyramid looking absolutely caked from the Highland Bowls webcam, and CAIC's forecasted LOW avalanche danger on all aspects in the Elk Range - I knew that it was time to make some moves on Pyramid. Mike Bean and I have had much discussion over the past few seasons about the prospect of skiing Pyramid Peak and at the time, the only thing that seemed questionable were the forecasted overnight lows in the mid to high 30s. I finished my finals for UCCS the week before and Austin Porzak also got me in touch with Dr. Jon, who was also interested in giving Pyramid a shot. Jon tried climbing the Landry just a week or so before our attempt and reported horrible conditions on the lower sections of the line including in the infamous choke. Hmm well that doesn't sound like much fun, so why don't we just try to ski the NE ridge like Lou Dawson? With the Maroon Bells road now conveniently open all the way, we would all meet at the TH at around 11pm and be moving no later than midnight to try to climb and ski the NE Ridge of Pyramid, the plan was set.
Time come to show, Mike, Jon, Jon's buddy Brad, and I geared up in the parking lot and had much discussion over the warm temperatures- it was like 44 degrees at the time! Concerns began to grow over whether or not Pyramid had gotten a good enough freeze and Mike decided that it was to warm for him to want to give the route a shot today and threw in his hat at the trailhead. What say you Dr. Jon? After more discussion, Jon, Brad, and I decided to follow through with with plan and if things were still too warm in the amphitheater, then we would turn around. Departing the trailhead around midnight, we were able to start skinning a couple hundred yards past Maroon Lake and started skinning towards the amphitheater in no time. Things finally began to cool off as we gained elevation and we became more confident with the idea of continuing on. At the base of the headwall in the amphitheater, the ice axes came out and the skis went on our backs. Very soon we would be on the saddle with the first view of the line.
First light
With the snow frozen solid and our time looking good, it was time for the real fun to begin.
Jon climbing up the ridge (Photo by Brad)
Brad
The climbing on the ridge was relatively straight forward until we encountered a thin cornice perched next to the vertical North Face. To your right you have at least 1000ft of air and to your left, thousands of feet of steep snow laden with cliff bands. After discussing our options, Brad and I traversed beneath the cornice on the east side via some loose 5th class ledges while Jon opted to down climb a few hundred feet on the east face to try and follow the summer route.
Mixed 5th class section
Looking towards the Bells, Snowmass, and Capitol
At the notch, Brad and I took a break and waited for Jon. This is the last place of flat ground before the summit and is a good place to make a final go or no go decision. 10 minutes or so went by and still no sign of Jon. With the sun now directly heating up the east face, I started getting anxious. After a few yells down attempting to make contact with Jon, he finally was able to respond and decided that today just wasn't his day. He said that he would meet us back at the saddle. After some more discussion, the final decision was made to push on- it was time to go.
Looking back towards the notch
The remainder of the route was steep but relatively straight forward snow climbing with a few mixed moves on the cliff bands. I was so focused and in the moment that I did not take many pictures of the ascent. Looking back at the saddle with Jon in sight, we see another climber making his way up the ridge - Jomah.
Can you spot Brad and I? Photo by Jomah
Snow conditions on much of the ascent route
Soon we were greeted with one of the most incredible views in Colorado
Brad
Me
After a quick break and some dumb jokes to lighten the mood, it was time to click in and crank those touring locks all the way back. The first pitch of skiing right off the summit is steep...Absolutely no room for error here.
Many people have said that this section is close to 60 degrees in steepness. Combined with the fact that a massive cliff lies less than a hundred feet below, this was the crux of the descent in my opinion.
The angle eases after the summit crux for a little bit, but then steepens again as you approach a convex slope above the cliff bands. A breakable crust here made some of the jump turns interesting to say the least.
One of the cliff bands
Jomah on his way up one of the cliff bands. Check out his TR of skiing the full Landry Line here: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=16928&parmpeak=Pyramid+Peak&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Only
A look down the Landry
With better snow, it was time to have some fun- This was some of the most fun i've ever had while skiing.
This was the only uphill section that we had to endure throughout our entire descent of the NE ridge
A look from the notch at Snowmass and Capitol
The rest of the skiing back to the saddle is steep and exposed but pretty straight forward
I've never felt such a feeling of excitement and relief than once we made it back to here. With the real danger now behind us, the rest of the skiing into the amphitheater was simple.
Back at the trailhead, it was time for some much needed beer and Pringles.
Quick Reflection:
I'll be real with you, there's been very few other times that I can recall where i've ever experienced the nerves that I felt while climbing and skiing Pyramid Peak. From the apprehension before to the immediate experience on route, Pyramid was intense. There's definitely something to be said for the feeling of pushing yourself just beyond your comfort zone to climb and ski a peak and actually getting it done safely and smoothly; it's such an incredible feeling. This trip was exactly everything I love about climbing and skiing 14ers and I can definitely say with confidence that I will be back someday to ski the full Landry Line in better conditions.
Chicago Basin Quatro Banger 05/24/16
Crew: Tara Nichols, Jon Kedrowski, Eric Sangueza
Two days after Pyramid, I met Jon and Tara in Durango and we hopped aboard the Narrow Gauge railroad with ambitious plans for the Chicago Basin 14ers. The weather forecast looked great and snotels across the San Juan's hinted that we would have great snow coverage.
Narrow Gauge Railroad
The approach
Excited to be skinning
Fast forward after a nice afternoon and night spent around camp, I believe we started around 3:45 or 4:00am. Super excited for this one, we made good progress towards the base of Eolus and caught one of the most spectacular sunrises I have ever seen.
What dreams are made of
Booting up the couloir
A look at the last bit of the route to the summit
Summit of Eolus (Photo by Jon)
The snow was firm
Quick uphill section to regain the notch
At the Notch, we organized some logistics with Tara since she would be on foot for the day. Jon and I would ski down and then go hit N Eolus while Tara would down climb and then make her way to the lakes in preparation for Windom Peak. We would still be able to watch her down climb from the notch while making our ascent up N Eolus and then she would have a pretty straightforward walk when we would be out of view skiing.
A look down the couloir
There was good powder in some places
After a quick traverse and ascent, we made our way to the summit of N Eolus in no time. Seeing that Tara had safely down climbed from the notch, we clicked in and made a speedy descent towards the lakes.
Views for Days
From North Eolus, you basically just ski straight towards Windom to access the chute that spits you out at the lakes
A look down the chute
A look back up
After regrouping with Tara, it was time to throw the skins back on. Tara decided that she would just meet us over on Windom while Jon and I skied Sunlight.
At this point I was confident that we would be able to get Sunlight and Windom skied as well. The snow was still cold and the stoke was higher than ever.
Climbing through this passage way with skis on our packs was pretty funny
A look at the summit and the ramp, I don't think i've seen a picture with better coverage
Sunlight is one of only a handful of 14ers that you typically don't ski directly from the summit. We were able to get pretty close though!
The ramp being south facing had perfect corn conditions at this time
We were also able to ski through this window with no shenanigans
3 done, 1 to go! We had witness Tara make her final moves onto the summit of Windom and we're excited to have a booter in place.
Back at camp it was time for some Dales and then a hike back to Needleton to wait for the train to come through the next morning. Tara conveniently parked her car in Silverton so we could catch the first train of the day and carpool back to Durango. Back at my car, I drove over to Telluride and got a beta shot of Wilson Peak which Jon and I ended up getting weathered out on the next day.
Wilson Peak
With these 14ers in the bag, I now have just 9 more peaks to ski this season to finish up my 14er skiing project that I started 7 years ago. So thankful for all of the awesome people I have met along the way as well as for all of the great information found here on the .com.
Here's to a safe and successful winter/ spring for all whether you plan on getting some snowflakes on your lists or if you just plan on skiing some aesthetic lines.
Wonderful views, and way to anticipate heart rate shooting up as you were on Pyramid. Sometimes it looks easier to navigate items with snow, as might be better then scree and such. Still that looked like careful footing.
Thanks for the TRs -- better late than never. Congrats on what must be the first Pyramid ski descent in a hoody! Count me in for following your booter up the next time.
Thanks for letting me know jmanner. I guess I gotta find a new third party picture hosting platform now since photobucket changed their terms and agreements--definitely not going to be paying hundreds of dollars a year for this simple function.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
