Little Bear Peak Trip Report 06/04/2016

Peak(s):	Little Bear Peak - 14,041 feet
Date Posted:	06/04/2016
Date Climbed:	05/29/2016
Author:	dvdcmiller

Little Bear, early season (Alley and Hourglass coulouirs, with map and climbing diagram)
Climb of Little Bear peak in early season conditions. Two couloir climbs (when snow is present) avoid the summer problem of rock-fall in the Bowling Alley and Hourglass chutes. Much of the debris down the Hourglass had the added effect of being mixed and scattered, because it bounces off of a rock wall, making it extremely unpredictable. Because falling debris is so difficult to avoid on this peak, a helmet is strongly advised for Little Bear in any season. We parked before the start of the uphill turns on Lake Como road. A high clearance 4WD is required to reach this point, which reduces the approach to lake Como by several miles (to ~6 with 3000' gain). Leaving at 10:44 am, we arrived at Como lake at 3:00 pm. We set up our tent inside the shack near the lake (which may reduce wind exposure at night). The lake was still frozen over on May 28 (Memorial day weekend), with little exposed ground - so bring a shovel. During the winter the road may be snowed-in lower down into the Holbrook creek valley. I got up at 4:15 am the next morning, we we on the trail from the lake at 5:35. An hour earlier start is a good idea on hot days. We reached the base of Alley couloir at 5:47 am, put on crampons and started up at 6:17 am. We reached the top of the Alley couloir/ Notch at 6:55 am (614' gain). We proceeded around the south ridge at roughly constant elevation. Some groups may instead follow near the ridgeline above. We put on crampons on the snowfield on Little Bear peak at 8:36 am, reaching the base of the Hourglass couloir at 8:54 am, and topping out Little Bear at 9:55 am (579' gain). We departed Little Bear after a break at 10:40 am, reaching the Notch at 1:08 pm, camp at 1:57, leaving camp at 2:52, and reaching our vehicle at 5:51. The snowpack was good on our trip - much of Colorado was at 115% annual snowpack at the start of May, which followed to ~200% by the end of the month (more because of lack of melting than significant new snow). I do not recall seeing as much snow in the nearby mountains (Spanish peaks, Culebra range, New Mexico...) in previous years on Memorial day. The snow was therefore soft, with deeper postholing during the afternoons. We did not bring snowshoes, which worked out OK, because the 1/3 mile approach from Como lake was only significant snow travel. Flotation was definitely advised for Blanca climbers - the cirque above was snowed in at least waist deep. With clear skies and average temperature, the snow did freeze moderately at night at lake Como - so the approach and snow climb was good. The Alley couloir typically ranges from 35-40 degrees, likely reaching a local maximum of 45. The Hourglass typically ranges from 45-55 degrees, likely reaching a local maximum of 60. I typically carry an ice ax plus an ice tool for chutes 50 degrees and over (for added purchase into the snow). The steepness of the hourglass may have been increased somewhat from the snowpack. We did encounter and overtake two climbers that were ahead of us. One did not have good boots, tight fitting crampons, or much climbing experience. He is lucky to have made the climb, because he slipped a couple times. I had to recover his ice ax, which he dropped (no good reason not to tether an ice ax, BTW). I would strongly advise to use a guide or have taken classes to climb Little bear in early season. The other climber made his first ski descent of a 14er on Little Bear. The Hourglass is a steep chute, with a relatively narrow chokepoint. You will not find terrain as steep at CO ski resorts (think triple diamond). With a friend that wrecked skiing Torreys peak a month ago (think 10 pin leg surgery), i would advise first trying easier mountains or terrain prior to riding Little Bear. My pack (to camp) was 50.5 lbs. Link to photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/19047247@N04/albums/72157669274358245 Key waypoints (looking back): Turn at N37.52188 W105.60185 at 7,323' Park at N37.55070 W105.55895 at 8,816' Base of Alley couloir at N37.56634 W105.51092 at 12,002' Top of Alley couloir (the Notch) at N37.56419 W105.50973 at 12,616' Base of Hourglass couloir at N37.56516 W105.49846 at 13,500' Little Bear summit at N37.56680 W105.49728 at 14,079' Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Little Bear, early season (Alley and Hourglass coulouirs, with map and climbing diagram)

Climb of Little Bear peak in early season conditions. Two couloir climbs (when snow is present) avoid the summer problem of rock-fall in the Bowling Alley and Hourglass chutes. Much of the debris down the Hourglass had the added effect of being mixed and scattered, because it bounces off of a rock wall, making it extremely unpredictable. Because falling debris is so difficult to avoid on this peak, a helmet is strongly advised for Little Bear in any season.

We parked before the start of the uphill turns on Lake Como road. A high clearance 4WD is required to reach this point, which reduces the approach to lake Como by several miles (to ~6 with 3000' gain). Leaving at 10:44 am, we arrived at Como lake at 3:00 pm. We set up our tent inside the shack near the lake (which may reduce wind exposure at night). The lake was still frozen over on May 28 (Memorial day weekend), with little exposed ground - so bring a shovel. During the winter the road may be snowed-in lower down into the Holbrook creek valley. I got up at 4:15 am the next morning, we we on the trail from the lake at 5:35. An hour earlier start is a good idea on hot days. We reached the base of Alley couloir at 5:47 am, put on crampons and started up at 6:17 am. We reached the top of the Alley couloir/ Notch at 6:55 am (614' gain). We proceeded around the south ridge at roughly constant elevation. Some groups may instead follow near the ridgeline above. We put on crampons on the snowfield on Little Bear peak at 8:36 am, reaching the base of the Hourglass couloir at 8:54 am, and topping out Little Bear at 9:55 am (579' gain). We departed Little Bear after a break at 10:40 am, reaching the Notch at 1:08 pm, camp at 1:57, leaving camp at 2:52, and reaching our vehicle at 5:51.

The snowpack was good on our trip - much of Colorado was at 115% annual snowpack at the start of May, which followed to ~200% by the end of the month (more because of lack of melting than significant new snow). I do not recall seeing as much snow in the nearby mountains (Spanish peaks, Culebra range, New Mexico...) in previous years on Memorial day. The snow was therefore soft, with deeper postholing during the afternoons. We did not bring snowshoes, which worked out OK, because the 1/3 mile approach from Como lake was only significant snow travel. Flotation was definitely advised for Blanca climbers - the cirque above was snowed in at least waist deep. With clear skies and average temperature, the snow did freeze moderately at night at lake Como - so the approach and snow climb was good.

The Alley couloir typically ranges from 35-40 degrees, likely reaching a local maximum of 45. The Hourglass typically ranges from 45-55 degrees, likely reaching a local maximum of 60. I typically carry an ice ax plus an ice tool for chutes 50 degrees and over (for added purchase into the snow). The steepness of the hourglass may have been increased somewhat from the snowpack.

We did encounter and overtake two climbers that were ahead of us. One did not have good boots, tight fitting crampons, or much climbing experience. He is lucky to have made the climb, because he slipped a couple times. I had to recover his ice ax, which he dropped (no good reason not to tether an ice ax, BTW). I would strongly advise to use a guide or have taken classes to climb Little bear in early season. The other climber made his first ski descent of a 14er on Little Bear. The Hourglass is a steep chute, with a relatively narrow chokepoint. You will not find terrain as steep at CO ski resorts (think triple diamond). With a friend that wrecked skiing Torreys peak a month ago (think 10 pin leg surgery), i would advise first trying easier mountains or terrain prior to riding Little Bear.

My pack (to camp) was 50.5 lbs.

Link to photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/19047247@N04/albums/72157669274358245

Key waypoints (looking back):
Turn at N37.52188 W105.60185 at 7,323'
Park at N37.55070 W105.55895 at 8,816'
Base of Alley couloir at N37.56634 W105.51092 at 12,002'
Top of Alley couloir (the Notch) at N37.56419 W105.50973 at 12,616'
Base of Hourglass couloir at N37.56516 W105.49846 at 13,500'
Little Bear summit at N37.56680 W105.49728 at 14,079'

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

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