Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
Peak: Mt. Wilson Date: March 13, 2016 Trailhead: Cross Mountain Route: Boxcar couloir and NE gully Distance: ~11 miles Elevation Gain: ~5,000 ft Participants: Greg Gorell and Natalie Moran Time: 10 hours 40 min
Going up Boxcar
Greg and I rendezvoused at a secret camping spot a few miles from trailhead. Daylight savings time threw us off a bit, so we started at 6.20 am (new) or 5.20 am (old) time. It just snowed a couple inches, so snowshoes and skis went on right away. We cruised up the gentle trail to about 11,200 feet when we left the trail and started navigating towards Slate Creek. I wasn't expecting to see any footprints, but we kept seeing some faint ski and snowshoe tracks going in the direction we were headed. On occasion we'll lose them on the account of new snow, but then would regain them later. We came across a couple of spots where we had to drop some elevation - at least a couple hundred feet. I made a mental note that this section won't be so fun on the return.
South Wilson, Wilson and Gladstone make an appearance
Greg was taking any opportunity to accelerate, so I was playing a constant game of catch up.
On the approach, we casually talked about our mutual interest in South Wilson (time permitting) and my interest in skiing Boxcar (best case scenario, conditions permitting). As we were crossing under the apron of Boxcar, Greg stops me in my tracks with a simple question: "How badly do you want to go up Boxcar?". I could barely contain my excitement. "I'd love to, but is that even an option?" We poke around at snow, which appears to be very springlike. While I ditch the skins, put skis on the pack, click into crampons, get a swig of water and a couple of gels to eat, Greg is already halfway up the apron, has dug the pit and keeps zooming ahead. WTH?
Any hesitation aside, I threw some coals in the fire and cranked up the engine. I am heading up a very aesthetic line. Snow is knee deep with a solid base underneath. Conditions look prime for a great ski descent. The day is warm, and I am beginning to worry about snow heating up too much later in the day.
Every stop, I have to make a choice between taking a photo, applying lip balm or taking a swig of water - I cannot afford to do all 3 things, or I'll lose any sight of Greg. My photographic output is taking a significant nosedive. More concerning, my left knee is starting to hurt with every weight-bearing high step. It's been a nagging problem for last several months, and obviously frequent 14ers are not helping the recovery. I end up using some of the Greg's booter, but kicking an extra step for my left foot. Still wincing with every other step, I keep wondering if this hobby is worth the abuse I am putting myself through.
The land of lizards and pilot knobs
Looking back at Boxcar and dreaming about skiing the couloir in heavy spring powder
Greg keeps chugging ahead
We took a break at the top of Boxcar. I couldn't help but notice there was still quite a bit to go.
Neighboring peaks are looking ok
Greg is breaking trail in deepening powder
I thought this was a better line - oops
Traverse to the summit couloir turned out to be trickier than expected in deep snow. Having had enough of trailbreaking, Greg elected for a direct approach to the summit on rock, while I booted up to the top of the couloir.
Approaching the summit
El Diente
Last more difficult peak for Greg and #50 overall, he is getting close to the finish line
After a short stay on the summit, we downclimbed 2+ gully back to the top of the couloir where I parked my skis. As I transitioned to a ski mode, Greg made a quick work of the couloir.
Starting the descent - Greg
Turns right off the top were some of the best skiing of the day. Greg managed to take a few photos. Lower on the East face it was hard to open up the turns as the light became really flat.
We regrouped at the bottom of the gully, where our paths split. Greg was eyeing the mellow NE gully towards Gladstone saddle, while my skis pointed me to Boxcar - and I was ready for a ride. The narrow rocky entrance to the couloir was still icy - but the snow would be softer down lower for sure. Well, not so much. With the overcast skies and a little bit of wind, the corn in the couloir ended up refreezing. This made for a very careful and ungraceful descent. The glorious warm powder I was so looking forward to was frozen.
Frozen crust
Greg made a quick work of his line and watched me scrape the ice in the couloir. I thought that at least the apron would be skiable, but no such luck. I launched out of the couloir, expecting corn, but overshot my turn by about 20 feet as my edges caught nothing but ice. In fact, the snow was frozen all the way back to the treeline, where I was finally able to make more fluid turns. Except it was time to put skins back on! I told Greg to go ahead, as I was expecting some time in the pain cave for myself. After following some ski tracks, I finally merged back to the trail, transitioned back to ski mode, but was only able to catch Greg back at the car.
Escaping the icy chute
Weather cleared out by the time we got back to the parking lot
Thank you Greg for being an awesome partner and for your quiet leadership. It was fun to check out such an aesthetic couloir line so early in the season. Maybe next time, I'll have better luck with the ski conditions and with the direct summit descent. What a treat to be in the San Juans for the winter finale!
P.S. Also check out a new route description of East face on Mt. Wilson that Bill M put together after a recent ski. Taken on a sunnier day, the photos are outstanding and most certainly better showcase the beauty of the area.
My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):
...live & die by the continuous struggle between a blaring sun and that somber cloud cover. So sorry those darn clouds came in and re-froze things in the Boxcar! And, then, the sun comes out when you get back to the TH. Loved the report and pics, Natalie. Congrats to you & Greg! This report just reaffirms the beautiful scenery in that high basin on the east face of Mt. Wilson.
It was great climbing with you Natalie. Thanks for pushing the ascent up the boxcar. Sorry the snow froze on you, at least you got a couple of good turns in. The noise coming from your skis as you descended told it all.
Boxcar is such a fine line that I can see myself going for it again, now knowing what to expect and timing it better. It would be nice to get a summit ski descent as well. I was told this one didn't count. Just need to get the knee healthy again, it's been neglected.
What a great report! The pictures are awesome. Boxcar has been a goal for me to get to some day! 20 years in CO but haven't gotten there yet.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
