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Waking up at 1 am sucks, unless you have an epic day ahead. In this case, bagging 2 14ers in the winter while crossing a gnarly ridge is incentive enough to pull me from my warm and comfortable bed. After breakfast and picking up some buddies, I left Fort Collins with 3 compadres and headed up 70.
We arrived at Guanella campground at about 4:30, and stepped off 15 minutes later. (The road is closed at the campground, adding an additional 1.7 miles each way) The path up to Bierstadt is thoroughly packed, allowing us to hike without snowshoes or spikes.
The hard-pack continued all the way to summit, so we literally just walked up to the top, making summit (5.5 miles from campground) in 5 hours and 33 minutes. This granted us beautiful views of Square Mountains and the surrounding range as the sun rose and kissed the mountain tops.
Here we met a fellow adventurer Jason, an avid outdoors enthusiast from right next door in Boulder.It was my first time climbing this route, and it was a relief to meet someone who was familiar with the sketchy Sawtooth ridge. We weaved, glissaded, and climbed our way through Sawtooth reaching the other side in 2 hours, giving us a moving time of 7 hrs 33 minutes.
The Sawtooth held plenty of snow, with a couple areas that we needed to avoid due to the accumulation.
After completing the final scramble, we button hooked the trail and began the climb towards the summit of Mt Evans.
The trail is snow covered but visible, and the cairns marking the path remain visible. We followed these small rock towers around the false summits, (yes, beware, Evans has some gnarly false summits for first time visitors) and reached the top 2 hours after leaving Sawtooth. Total move time 9 hours 33 min.
We regrouped on the summit, and began our arduous hike out.
Mt Evans
The standard route rolls right of the Sawtooth, and meanders down a ravine to the valley floor. It was in this chute that things got fatiguing. The route was FULL of powdery snow; posthole heaven. Even once we strapped on snowshoes, we sank waist deep in soft snow, forcing us to SWIM our way back to the trail head. After 3 hours of grueling hiking/crawling/scrambling, we reached the TH with a total move time of 12 hours 30 minutes. The final 1.7 miles back to the car took only 40 minutes, completing the 14 mile round trip day in 13 hours and 22 minutes.
So what you need to know:
It's gonna be a long day! Get an early start, move at a steady pace, and bring a headlamp. You will be spending a few hours in the dark.
Dress warm! The temperature at the trailhead was -9 with the wind. So pack smart layers, and mentally prepare yourself for cold-cold-cold.
The Road and trail up to Bierstadt is solid pack, so spikes and snowshoes are NOT necessary. However, once you drop into Sawtooth, there is lots of fresh snow and sketchy climbing on snow and ice. I would recommend crampons and ice ax for this portion. Can you do it without them? Maybe....but you can also drive without a seat-belt; the risk is at your won discretion.
Snowshoes are a must, especially once you reach the valley floor descending Evans. Not many people complete the winter route, so there is NO hard packed snow on the way back to the TH. With that said, I would bring snowshoes, crampons, ice axe, helmet, and lots of layers!
For full trip report, including maps, elevation graphs, route details, full photo gallery, and time splits, follow the link below!
Some cool stuff on the website too. That gully off of Evans and the ensuing wallowing can be real asskicker in snow! Well done to all of you on what looks like a great day.
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