Mt. Sneffels Trip Report 06/17/2015

Peak(s):	Mt. Sneffels - 14,155 feet
Date Posted:	06/17/2015
Date Climbed:	06/15/2015
Author:	Mike Shepherd

Smitten by the Serpent
Mount Sneffels - Snake Couloir Steep Snow, Class 5.0 Elevation gain: 4810 ft * I have removed the 70 degree rating from the snow. My intent was the convey the steepness of snow we found in the direct exit which is normally a 5th class section. Sneffels first captivated me on some ice climbing trips to Ouray this past winter. You have about 40 minutes as you whiz down 550 to admire its jagged sawtooth spires. At some point on one of the trips I decided to add it to my list of peaks that I would try and go after this spring. I've come to find I like couloirs that pass through towering rock buttresses that make you feel like you are climbing through the heart of the mountain. After reading several route descriptions, and decided the Snake Couloir would be the type of climb I would like to do as well as a good challenge. Info is not especially plentiful on the snake, especially about the direct exit from the top of the couloir. Most of the reports are from skiers who rappel the crux of the climb (by the way you skiers are totally insane attempting this descent). Roach calls it 5.6, however I've seen reports of everything from 4th class to a 5.5 finger crack, and the length being between 50 to 100 feet. Because of the uncertainty we opted for a light alpine rack, 50m rope, and some alpine draws. Access for the north face is through the East Dallas Creek Trailhead, at 9340 ft. We planned to camp up in Blaine Basin and then make our summit bid the following morning. The first few miles of trail are on easy rolling 'nature walk' terrain and you barely gain any elevation. Sneffels on the drive in to the East Dallas Creek Trailhead. Those aspens sure are neat. The trail steepens once you see a 1 mile marker for Blaine Basin but is not bad even then. You'll cross several avalanche paths on the way up, and then after a short steep section you'll abruptly drop into the basin and get your first real look at Sneffels complex north face. Sneffels towering over the trees. A short distance later the basin opens open up and you can see the task ahead of you. Blaine Basin is an excellent place to camp - the views are incredible! There are lots of great spots and plenty of water nearby to drink. We camped right near tree line at about 11,000 ft. You'll want to avoid camping really high up in Blaine Basin if you are attempting the snake as the exit will deposit you pretty close to tree line, and it would suck to walk back uphill to break down your camp. View of Sneffels North Face from Blaine Basin. Close up of the North Face. Snake Couloir start indicated with red arrow Part of the difficulty of attempting the snake is not being able to see more than part of the route from any one vantage point. This holds true for the descent as well. I studied the descent via Google earth, but standing there in our camp I really had no idea where exactly the descent route was going to drop us out at, or where it was in relation to the jagged spires we could see. We bedded down to a crystal clear sky and awoke promptly at 3am and headed just after 4am. Most of the approach is pretty low angle, maybe 20 degrees, and it gradually steepens as you reach the base of the couloir. Pausing on the approach before dawn. First light hits the bottom of the couloir We found good snow in the bottom of the couloir, though it was a little soft in places so we opted for the runnel which had formed in the right hand side of the couloir. The narrow runnel mostly follows the same grade as the rest of the climb, but in some areas gets much steeper maybe 60 degrees for a move or two as it gouges down toward rock. Stemming across the runnel. The crux of the bottom of the climb is passing a rock buttress that constricts the route to just a few feet wide. The snow in this area was absolutely bullet proof and on its way to becoming ice. The speed of our ascent slowed way down in this area, I had to start overhand swinging both of my axes though this section. My friend Jake at the crux. Once past the crux you get your first look at 'mega cornice' my term for the absolute monster of a cornice overhanging the section just past the rock crux. The snow steepens as you make this turn. Once you pass the rock constriction and make the turn, there is no turning around you are committed to the route. Mega cornice at the bend. My friend Brad and I looking down as we round the bend. Note the shimmering 'snice' to the right of us. Once around the bend head directly up the couloir until you can climb no higher. At this point you can look to the right and see the direct exit to the summit. The position and beauty of this route is spectacular. Brad and I head up the couloir. The direct exit is the crux of the whole route, and in the state we found it; it was steep snow and some low 5th class moves, but very exposed. In its current state it's pretty much impossible to protect the route with rock pro. We opted to instead solo this section. Most of the rock is flat on top and there are some decent hand holds. I alternated between overhand swinging both tools and climbing with my hands. Toward the top of the direct exit, another climber on the summit apparently heard us talking and looked over the edge in a mix of surprise and bewilderment to see us there. It sort of freaked me out in a ways as I was in tunnel vision mode to get to the summit. From the summit looking down the snow and rock direct exit. The views from the summit were incredible. This was my first climb in the San Juans and I really savored the views from the summit. Summit Views. Obligatory summit shot. Start of the descent into the Lavender Col. We descended the gulley and headed toward the Lavender Col. Instead of heading right (to Yankee Boy Basin) we headed left and glissaded down toward Blaine Basin. Note the arrow and glissade away. Later in the season you'll likely be on scree in this top section. Overall I highly recommend more people try this excellent route. After the first mile in on the trail we didn't see a single person, until after we were heading down the following day. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Smitten by the Serpent

Mount Sneffels - Snake Couloir
Steep Snow, Class 5.0
Elevation gain: 4810 ft

* I have removed the 70 degree rating from the snow. My intent was the convey the steepness of snow we found in the direct exit which is normally a 5th class section.

Sneffels first captivated me on some ice climbing trips to Ouray this past winter. You have about 40 minutes as you whiz down 550 to admire its jagged sawtooth spires. At some point on one of the trips I decided to add it to my list of peaks that I would try and go after this spring.
I've come to find I like couloirs that pass through towering rock buttresses that make you feel like you are climbing through the heart of the mountain. After reading several route descriptions, and decided the Snake Couloir would be the type of climb I would like to do as well as a good challenge.
Info is not especially plentiful on the snake, especially about the direct exit from the top of the couloir. Most of the reports are from skiers who rappel the crux of the climb (by the way you skiers are totally insane attempting this descent). Roach calls it 5.6, however I've seen reports of everything from 4th class to a 5.5 finger crack, and the length being between 50 to 100 feet. Because of the uncertainty we opted for a light alpine rack, 50m rope, and some alpine draws.
Access for the north face is through the East Dallas Creek Trailhead, at 9340 ft. We planned to camp up in Blaine Basin and then make our summit bid the following morning. The first few miles of trail are on easy rolling 'nature walk' terrain and you barely gain any elevation.

Sneffels on the drive in to the East Dallas Creek Trailhead.

Those aspens sure are neat.

The trail steepens once you see a 1 mile marker for Blaine Basin but is not bad even then. You'll cross several avalanche paths on the way up, and then after a short steep section you'll abruptly drop into the basin and get your first real look at Sneffels complex north face.

Sneffels towering over the trees.

A short distance later the basin opens open up and you can see the task ahead of you. Blaine Basin is an excellent place to camp - the views are incredible! There are lots of great spots and plenty of water nearby to drink. We camped right near tree line at about 11,000 ft. You'll want to avoid camping really high up in Blaine Basin if you are attempting the snake as the exit will deposit you pretty close to tree line, and it would suck to walk back uphill to break down your camp.

View of Sneffels North Face from Blaine Basin.

Close up of the North Face. Snake Couloir start indicated with red arrow

Part of the difficulty of attempting the snake is not being able to see more than part of the route from any one vantage point. This holds true for the descent as well. I studied the descent via Google earth, but standing there in our camp I really had no idea where exactly the descent route was going to drop us out at, or where it was in relation to the jagged spires we could see. We bedded down to a crystal clear sky and awoke promptly at 3am and headed just after 4am.

Most of the approach is pretty low angle, maybe 20 degrees, and it gradually steepens as you reach the base of the couloir.

Pausing on the approach before dawn.

First light hits the bottom of the couloir

We found good snow in the bottom of the couloir, though it was a little soft in places so we opted for the runnel which had formed in the right hand side of the couloir. The narrow runnel mostly follows the same grade as the rest of the climb, but in some areas gets much steeper maybe 60 degrees for a move or two as it gouges down toward rock.

Stemming across the runnel.

The crux of the bottom of the climb is passing a rock buttress that constricts the route to just a few feet wide. The snow in this area was absolutely bullet proof and on its way to becoming ice. The speed of our ascent slowed way down in this area, I had to start overhand swinging both of my axes though this section.

My friend Jake at the crux.

Once past the crux you get your first look at 'mega cornice' my term for the absolute monster of a cornice overhanging the section just past the rock crux. The snow steepens as you make this turn. Once you pass the rock constriction and make the turn, there is no turning around you are committed to the route.

Mega cornice at the bend.

My friend Brad and I looking down as we round the bend. Note the shimmering 'snice' to the right of us.

Once around the bend head directly up the couloir until you can climb no higher. At this point you can look to the right and see the direct exit to the summit.
The position and beauty of this route is spectacular.

Brad and I head up the couloir.

The direct exit is the crux of the whole route, and in the state we found it; it was steep snow and some low 5th class moves, but very exposed. In its current state it's pretty much impossible to protect the route with rock pro. We opted to instead solo this section. Most of the rock is flat on top and there are some decent hand holds. I alternated between overhand swinging both tools and climbing with my hands. Toward the top of the direct exit, another climber on the summit apparently heard us talking and looked over the edge in a mix of surprise and bewilderment to see us there.

It sort of freaked me out in a ways as I was in tunnel vision mode to get to the summit.

From the summit looking down the snow and rock direct exit.

The views from the summit were incredible. This was my first climb in the San Juans and I really savored the views from the summit.

Summit Views.

Obligatory summit shot.

Start of the descent into the Lavender Col.

We descended the gulley and headed toward the Lavender Col. Instead of heading right (to Yankee Boy Basin) we headed left and glissaded down toward Blaine Basin.

Note the arrow and glissade away. Later in the season you'll likely be on scree in this top section.

Overall I highly recommend more people try this excellent route. After the first mile in on the trail we didn't see a single person, until after we were heading down the following day.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Dave B	Nice job 6/17/2015 6:43am This is one of those routes I’ve always wanted to climb, looks like you caught it in good conditions. Firm snow, snice and ice. That’s a good cooler!
Jay521	Wow... 6/17/2015 7:33am Absolutely incredible. Reading this and seeing your great photos made my palms sweat...
GregMiller	Aaaaaaaand.... 6/17/2015 10:14am Now I know what’s at the top of my list for the next couple weekends. Well–done sirs! Anything you think is worth/possible protecting with screws or pickets, if things won’t take rock pro?
jbchalk	Ride the Snake! 6/17/2015 10:37am Great report and nice climb! That runnel is rather large as is that cornice! Such an outstanding route that Snake is. I remember soloing that final 50’ up the direct finish with skis on my back and yes, it is a bit spicy. Well done!
Mike Shepherd	Thanks 6/17/2015 6:14pm for the comments. Greg I will PM you.
Nelson	Wilson Creek 6/19/2015 1:42am Thanks for the great report. How were the Wilson Creek crossings? I assume the water is high and fast. Also, were you able to drive all the way to the trailhead? Thanks, Nelson
Mike Shepherd	The trailhead is 6/19/2015 9:35am open and dry, it is at 9340 ft. Until you get to Blaine Basin the creek crossings are almost always a series of logs lashed together with some sort of wire. Once you get to Blaine Basin it’s a little more choose your own adventure, but the creek is small there. We made the approach in mountain boots and didn’t have to hunt much to stay dry.
jdcoleman	YBB 6/19/2015 11:09am Did you get a good look about snow conditions from the South/Yankee Boy Basin and Blue Lake Pass? Also, has anyone done a long approach to Sneffels from Telluride via Cornel Creek and Virginius Pass, south of Mendota Peak? Hoping to get some good beta, general and current. Thanks! jc
Mike Shepherd	Only partially. 6/19/2015 11:19am We descended about half the standard route to the top of the lavender col. There were several parties that day who had ascended from Yankee Boy Basin and reported good conditions. I can’t really speak about snow coverage in the basin itself however. I’m not familiar with the other route so I cannot say.
jdcoleman	Sounds great! 6/19/2015 11:31am It’s good to know that other people ascended from YBB and said it was good conditions – that helps. Thanks!

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App