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Peak(s):  Mt. Lincoln  -  14,293 feet
Date Posted:  08/22/2014
Date Climbed:   05/20/2014
Author:  Taylor B
 Wasi'chu Gallows-First Ascent   

Mt. Lincoln is named after president Lincoln. We may think that Abraham Lincoln was this great humanitarian... He approved the death sentence of 38 Dakota Indians by hanging on December 26, 1862 in Mankato, Minnesota; after we (the Wasi'chu) forced them into starvation and desperation, hence the war of 1862 and the massacre at Wounded Knee.
We (the Wasi'chu) claim that we conquer mountains, when we are actually just granted temporary passage to these magnificent places by the Great Spirit.
I recently met National Geographic photographer Aaron Huey and he inspired me to name this route. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tEuaj4h8dw
This is a short and steep route that you can hang yourself from and goes at M4 A2 and has yet to see a mixed-free ascent, hence the aid rating. It is located on the rock buttress to the climbers right of Lincoln Falls. I made a few other FAs and contributions to the area and more info can be found at http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wasichu-gallows
Image
Pink-Wasi'chu Gallows M4 A2, Green- Heche En Gringolandia M4, Blue-Panty Peeler M4, Light Blue-Thin Pin M5+. Red Dots-Bol

Image
The splitter aid section

Image
The Windy Wall in fine form in May 2014

Cheers,
Taylor



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3


Comments or Questions
Dave B
User
Cool stuff, Taylor
8/22/2014 3:14pm
Thanks again for bringing this stuff over here, looks spicy! Any guess what the FFA would go at (not that I would ever be capable of trying).

BTW, looks like the link got truncated, here's the full one:



Taylor B
User
Go get some!
8/22/2014 9:57pm
Thanks Dave B! The FFA would probably go at M7++?? or 5.10-5.11. It's one of the cleaner features that I've seen in that neck of the woods. In all, I cleaned and trundled about 800ft of climbing and hope that this area provides some relief to the over crowded Lincoln Falls ice climbing area.


CORed
1st Ascent on Lincoln, who'da thunkit
8/25/2014 5:36pm
It's easy to forget that there are hard ways to climb Lincoln. I've only done the east side from Quartzville, with 4wd road most of the way up (I did do it in March).



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