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I debated writing this trip report because I know each group member will have a unique take on their experience but in the end we all had so much fun it would be a crime to leave this Chicago Basin adventure undocumented. This tale is about more than mountain tops, it is about friendships old and new, laughter, accomplishment, patience, and kindness. This tale is about a diverse group of mountain climbers whose lives collided for five days and the experiences that fill a lifetime of memories.
In my year plus climbing I have spent most of my time alone or climbing with one or two other people, so when Danielle (our one and only LadyMc) told me about this trip and mentioned Bill, Chuck, Noel, Zach, and Jenny would be on it I jumped at the opportunity to go. Add Mike Z, his wife Maggie, Senad, Bob, Matt, Nathan, Mike W, Steve, Todd, and Andrew to the mix and it was PARTY time! If a picture is worth a thousand words, well then, two hundred and eighteen pictures must be worth 218,000 words........
The San Juans are indescribable beauties.
Day One: (7/25/14)
Danielle, Nathan, and myself had dreams of a prompt Friday morning departure time of seven but a hefty number of turn-rounds and food stops delayed our progress towards the town of Durango.
Goodbye Denver!
Soon enough we found ourselves flirting with adventure as we pumped gas on the set of Joy Ride the sequel.
Candy Cane.
Danielle had the hook up in Durango and we arrived to a BBQ feast at her friend Jordan's. The company and food was spectacular. Nathan helped me re-pack the dead body that I would strap to my back and haul in to Chicago Basin the following morning.
Going fast and light.
Refusing to share the sheet I was awarded, we settled in for a comfortable nights sleep on the floor of Hunter and Parker's playroom.
Day Two: (7/26/14)
Alarms went off at six a.m. Saturday morning, Nathan and I did yoga while simultaneously rushing Danielle. The excitement levels were at a meth status and we showed up to the train station like a class five hurricane.
Lovers for life.
Finally I got to meet the crew and the train ride full of beer and alcoholic coffee drinks began. Everyone was so excited, it was infectious.
Maggie, (all business Bill), Bob, and Jenny. Mike Z, Noel, and Chuck. Chooo Chooo Matt, you're not allowed to hang out on the platform! Maggie, Mike Z, Noel, Chuck, and Zach. Trains are cool. Me birthing Danielle.
Eventually the train aborted us into chaos at Needleton.
!!!
The pack in began. Noel, Chuck, Senad, and a few others torpedoed out of the gate with hopes of finding a good camp spot (they did). I will title the next section, "The Seven Mile Struggle." Luckily, I had Zach to chat with. His inspirational stories and positivity took my mind off the 68 pound problem I now had strapped to my being. Yes, I brought too much. Yes, I learned a lesson.
Mike W and Todd. Farewell chugaloo. Here we go! Danielle loves backpacking. Matt and myself (putting on a brave face). Me, Zach, Danielle, and Nathan Matt's beautiful photography. Oh Zach Zach and Andrew Jenny Camping is super serious business.
Danielle, already the happiest person on earth grew even happier (it is possible) as we rounded this bend.
Noel and Chuck had locked down a nice spot for our group. There was some discussion if we could top the craptastic destruction of Willow Lake by Camp Gladiator but in the end everyone spread out and was respectful of the surrounding nature.
Noel welcomed us to camp. She is a delightful person but don't be fooled.....she's a total bad ass. One of the most mentally strong woman I have met, she is an amazing homemaker, mom, wife, and killer cookie maker. Her name might be cookiehiker but she whipped out some of the yummiest homemade dehydrated meals of the trip. Chuck was constantly bragging about his next meal and I was constantly jealous. She gave me some great ideas to make backpacking not only tastier but more reasonable. Also, she can climb a freaking mountain!
Our Town Senad and the future pond. Bob and Matt's tent. Danielle and Nate's crib.
It was really great getting to know Jenny. Don't ask us who did it if at some point in the near future the Sunlight block explodes in to outer space.
View from my tent. It was not soon before the urine hunters emerged from the forest. View from camp.
Feeding time in the great hall (a very long log) was a pretty big deal. Stories exchanged, jokes told, sarcasm sprayed...laughter and the smell of bacon filled the air (thanks to Danielle and Nathan).
Bob Quite possibly one of my favorite pictures of the trip. She hiked in a dozen eggs. That's ma gurl. Bill and Jenny. Senad contemplating soup. Beer, an intricate part of any mountain climbing experience. Bob, Senad, Andrew.
Sophisticated tea time happened every night before bed or conveniently enough as it began to down pour. Matt
I cannot say enough about Matt. What a great human being. Bob and Matt are both from Oklahoma and part of the same running group. When Bob invited Matt to come check out Colorado with a bunch of strangers he jumped at the chance, because that's the kind of guy he is. His sense of adventure and curiosity is unmatched and he never had anything but a smile on his face. We can all thank him for a lot of the beautiful photos in this trip report. His camera was constantly in hand and he is the one that captured the little moments. Thank you Matt.
The Family
The clouds came in and night fell. We all went to bed with thoughts of Mount Eolus dancing in our heads.
These beautiful shots courtesy of Matt
Day Three: (7/27/14) Mount Eolus, North Eolus, and Glacier Point
By 3:30 a.m. camp was a flurry of activity but we all managed to begin the hike up the headwall to the Twin Lakes. For me, it was surreal. In the pitch black all you could see were headlamps marching up the steep incline. I couldn't wait to see the basin in day light. We reconvened at the closest of the two lakes and went left (west) under some cliffs towards our first objective, Mount Eolus. Mike, Steve, and Todd decided to go for Sunlight and Windom first, Steve ended up getting all four that day.
Maggie and Noel. Chuck.
I hiked with Chuck on the way to the ridge. He may be one of the funniest people I have met to date. His demeanor is calming which is the ying to my spaztastic yang.
Senad and some Alpen Glow. Myself. Noel. Danielle and Nathan. Watery Slabs.. Bob. Matt I look so small.
More of Matt's incredible photography...
As we neared the short class three section to gain the saddle between North Eolus and Eolus the group split up. Matt took one look at Eolus's catwalk (he has never climbed a 14er) and decided to go for North Eolus. Senad and myself made quick work of the catwalk and ledges with Noel, Chuck, Zach, Maggie, and Mike Z close behind. Danielle, Nathan, Bob, Jenny, and Bill opted to take the airy ridge (northeast) direct. It was necessary we stagger and or split up.
My personal experience and the general consesus: Eolus----nothing but fun. There are so many different ways up. I never felt anything exceeded class 3. If taking Bill's ridge direct the climbing is exposed class 4.
Chuck and Zach making their way to the saddle. Noel Matt and Senad a top the saddle. Me, start of cat walk. Senad, working it. Noel, Maggie, and Chuck. Bill's group Jenny and Bob Maggie and Noel. Meeeeeeee Chuck and Maggie. In the ledges. Jenny and Bill How small we really are. Chuck, Noel, and Maggie about to summit.
And then the summit was had..........
Noel in her my little pony dress. Zach. Chuck. Me. Danielle and Nathan. Senad and my summit selfie. Noel and Maggie Danielle, Unknown, Jenny...Ow OW Bill, Jenny, Bob, Danielle, and Nathan Matt took this from North Eolus, (Senad, Noel, Chuck and myself atop Eolus) Summit marmot (photo by Jenny) ...belongs in National Geographic
Mike W and Todd Payne also summited Eolus (the following day), here's a few from their adventure.
Mike W. in the fog. Todd Payne Mike W. summit
After the summit celebration, for Noel, Chuck, and Jenny this was a special one, everyone did their own thing. Senad, myself, and Nathan were the only ones who needed North Eolus. I made quick work getting up there, the rock was extremely grippy and fun to power up. My heart was set on Glacier Point. I debated taking the ridge directly over but soon ran in to a class five down climb. Not wanting to fall too far behind my peeps I opted for a descending traverse which turned into a scree ski (actually really fun).
Summit of North Eolus Looking towards tomorrows work.
Glacier Point Glacial Lake
The views from the summit were amongst my favorite of the trip. It was a worthy side note.
Twin Lakes and the Sunlight massif.
The upper basin was filled with sounds of Danielle and Noel yodeling to each other. I hurried to catch up with the group and Senad helped direct me above some nasty slabs. The descent was lax.
This is a place I do not have to fake a smile.
After this trip I am completely desensitized to goats. It is their world, we are just living in it.
Photo by Jenny...holy amazing! This is perfection
I feel like I have been saying this all summer but I have never been to a place so beautiful in my life. The Twin Lakes were so clear it was like looking in a mirror. Every possible color and species of wildflower flourished. There were waterfalls EVERYWHERE. I think Danielle put it best when she said, "I love it here so much, next summer I am going to come back and cover 500 feet a day."
Everyone slowly trickled back to camp greeted by high fives and encouraging words. The long log became the chill spot and my face was starting to hurt from so much laughter. The torrential rain came and we all retreated to our tents. Everyone had a tent buddy except for Andrew and I. Luckily our tents were next to each other so we screamed back and forth over the thunder. I eventually grew restless, donned my rain gear, and emerged from my tent to a pink sky and light drizzle. I began spreading lies of a triple rainbow to get everyone out of their tents. It worked, except that Noel and Chuck's tent was in a newly landscaped pond and Noel was not feeling great.
The flood waters be a'risin.
Besides one short drizzly break it rained on and off all night long. With Sunlight and Windom still on the itinerary we went to bed slightly concerned with the dismal weather.
Day Four: (7/28/14) Sunlight Peak, Windom Peak, and Peak 18
My alarm went off at 3:30 a.m. and it was raining so I reset it. Zach started poking around my tent at 4:15 but I did not get up until 4:30. I was hiking by 4:45 (this is a new sleeping bag to trail record for me). There was an erie misty wet feel surrounding everything. Zach, Matt, Senad, Jenny, Bill, and myself began tackling the headwall in the dark for the second time. At this point different group members had different agendas but I knew Jenny and I wanted Sunlight, BAD.
At Twin Lakes we went right (west) and attained a higher basin. I enjoyed the approach to the Sunlight Peak/Sunlight Spire saddle, it was grand. The clouds whizzed by spooking us all.
Bill and Jenny Bill, Jenny, Zach Matt
So, Matt decided to do something awesome and climb Sunlight as his first 14er. He is in terrific shape. Some sort of super human, I never saw him eat and the altitude never phased him (even though he came from Oklahoma). The night before, as we sat around the fake camp fire he told me we looked like professionals. He said watching us all climb Eolus was inspiring and he wanted a go at it.
Bill
I had met Bill a few times at 14ers happy hours where he was always surrounded by people. I came to find out why. Bill is selfless, while each person must climb the mountain to get to the summit Bill is the kind of guy that gets a group to the top. He is kind, patient, and helpful. He embodies the, "no man left behind" mentality. I have met many mountain climbers and Bill is one of the few whose agenda is that of the slowest or most nervous individual. He will give you the shirt off his back and freeze. I am so happy I got to know him better.
The one the only...Zach
Jenny heading up the Sunlight gully. In comparison to the Pyramid gully, there is no comparison, there is a well beaten trail and at no point did I feel like ripping my own face off.
Senad and I reached the saddle by 6:45, spirits high, maybe a little to high. Sunlight Spire Sunlight Peak
With no regard I immediately started climbing on ridge proper. The first hand hold I grabbed, popped and the first foot placement slid out. Very reassuring. The rock was incredibly slick making it difficult to climb. Senad and I went up and over a few bumps soon realizing they could be bypassed below and to our left. I had not done much research on the Sunlight route and it was showing. There are many ways to climb a mountain besides the standard route, Sunlight only has a couple viable unroped lines, add wet rock and the options narrow. Senad and I perused the area below the final ridge for 65 minutes looking for a way up. The standard route (which Senad did find) looked undoable to me. There were cairns, everywhere and they each went in different directions. There are two worm holes, if you like class 5, go through the first, if not, make sure you find the second. Senad and I ended up going through the first and putting together a series of highly exposed, slick rock, class 5 moves....not ideal but we got it done.
The sea of Sunshine confusion.
By dropping through the first worm hole we ended up on the north side of Sunshine a.k.a put your serious pants on, a.k.a hair raising. I yanked this from Danielle's trip report because she took this perfect photo of the north (right) side we ascended. Red is our approximate route, the blue arrow shows where the standard route pops you out via the south (left) side, and the green arrow is the summit. The wet rock made everything more exciting.
Finally we were face to face with the Sunlight summit block. Most moves (like the Pyramid leap of faith) are over-rated, this was not. I have never been so terrified in my life. I present to you the ten step program to the Sunlight summit block:
Step 1: Slide down the initial slab on your belly three dozen times, shredding your down layer and skin before taking off your shoes and trying it barefoot. When this fails and your feet end up shredded curse a few times, get pissed, and use momentum to run up it.
Step 2: Carefully work your way to the edge, look over, shit that's a long way down.
Step 3: Pull up your pants, you will need the extra security.
Step 4: Position yourself, look down again, and ask, "Where is my mind?"
Step 5: Pretend you are going to jump.
Step 6: F that. Employ the old split leg hook rock rape method to claw your way up.
Step 7: Take the time to do a 30 second plank (excellent core workout)
Step 8: Look down again because why not......
Step 9: More rock rape....
Step 10: For the win!
Now for the descent I utilized the very aesthetic but rarely climbed Senad traverse. I got to the part where I had no choice but to jump (because I am short) and began whimpering. Senad rushed over and positioned himself in the crevasse allowing me to use his back as a step. I have never been so thankful to be off a rock in my life. Throughout this trip Senad and I grew close. We did all our hiking and mountain summiting together. Senad is the father of two beautiful children, an amazing husband, excellent photographer, and all around stand up guy. He is SO much fun and he loves 13ers. We looked out for one another and kept each other going. He loved my enthusiasm and energy and I his. I am so glad he was on this trip. I found myself a new mountain buddy!
BFF's You know what to do...bust a move! Rock Solid.
Senad going through the correct worm hole.
Finding the standard route on the descent was a cinch. There is a massive cairn above the correct worm hole and it was a simple down climb. We built a large cairn at the base of the correct chimney. Soon after, we crossed paths with Bill, Jenny, Matt, and Zach and told them to go up where we constructed the cairn. Later Bill told me he recognized the chimney and it was "obvious." Okay, well I am a dumbass
Here are some photos of the Jenny, Bill, Matt, and Zach making there way up the mystical Sunlight Peak....
The class 4 way to attain Sunlight's ridge. (standard route)
Summit Shots: Matt's first 14er~~ Sunlight Peak~~ Rad Slim Jims CAN be confusing. Hellz ya Jenny! The loverly Bill. Zachalicious Matt and the featureless slabby summit block of nightmarish hell.
Mike W, Todd Payne, and Steve climbed Sunlight and Windom the day before, here are a few of their shots.
Todd, Sunlight Peak Steve and Todd
The menacing dark clouds kept a fire under our asses as Senad and I moved towards Windom Peak. It was a straight forward down some rocks and up some rocks to gain the northwest-ish ridge. I tried my hardest to make things more difficult by dropping us to the much steeper south side but Senad kept my ass in check. Sunlight was enough excitement for one day. Windom is a really neat mountain with an interesting blocky summit. It was there I found the most enjoyable views of the trip. I would say Windom is a fine way to end the four pack.
One happy girl on the summit of Windom Peak. Colorado
On our way off of Windom we intercepted Zach and Matt...........and then there were four. Not having seen anyone else in our group in passing we assumed most chose not to climb because of wet rock and rain. Jenny and Bill both already having snagged Windom (previous trip) headed down for a hard chill sesh at the Twin Lakes.
A run in.
Zach and Matt went on to summit Windom. So many good vibes from this man! Congrats on his second 14er...ya done good newb
Now Peak 18 had been threatening me with a good time ever since we arrived at camp. It loomed over my tent whispering, "climb me" ever so gently. And now here I was at the end of my run with her fortress of rock straight away. The weather was shooting chills down my spine but I would be damned if I did not at least give her a whirl. Sedan and I bid a farewell (he agreed to wait for me at the upper lake) and I ran Windom's ridge out to the low point in the saddle where I identified the sketchy ass gully I would use as an exit.
Peak 18
There was no information on this peak. Gerry Roach writes a short blurb in the 14ers book but really I had nothing but my trusty eyes and gut to follow. This peak is intimidating but I had been scouting my ascent route through some grassy ledges on its south side since we began our descent off Windom. I hauled to the summit fueled by a sweet mixture of terror, weather, and Senad waiting for me. The route I chose was consistently class 3 to class 4 and I was quite pleased with my route finding as there were no cairns or trail. I let out a hell raising scream when I got to the top. I would say this is the equivalent of landing a snowboarding trick and then making sure everyone knows you landed the snowboarding trick. I really don't care, I was thrilled with life.
Summit shots...(I love the unique views random 13ers give you) Sunlight Peak and Sunlight Spire Windom Peak Needle Ridge The Eolus's, Twin Lakes, and Glacier Point.
Descent gully is far left (with snow in it), it is much steeper than it appears.
My hurry up turned in to a hurry down, I missed the ledge system and dropped too far down. I was able to correct my mistake but it was sketchy. Before I knew it I was bustling down terrible snow and rock with Senad in my sights. I gave him a big hug upon my safe return and we joined Jenny and Bill at the Twin Lakes where we swamped stories of the sucky Sunlight summit block. Our hike back to camp was extra lax and filled with laughter.
We took some photos at the lakes. The weather deterred a lot of folks so we had it all to ourselves.
Jenny Me This incredible shot by Senad
Bill making out with a rock. Wildflowers by Jenny Waterfall by Matt Matt and Zach
The excitement was undeniable as we returned to camp ready to see the rest of the clan but we returned to a world sadly changed. Bob, one of my favorite people on the trip eagerly greeted us at the creek crossing. His soft, calming, friendly demeanor was welcomed. Loving Bob's instagram feed I followed him many months ago, it was a total surprise we would be on this trip together. It was fun getting to know him. He works hard for his summits. Bob handed me a note from my lover telling me they had returned to Durango, they as in everyone, everyone except for Bob. Bill said, "Ah well, I guess our town has been downgraded to a village." There was seven of us left and we would go on to endure one hell of a nights worth of rain.
Apparently Mike Z's pee sent the town into a tail spin. Goats over ran campers in an apocalyptical fashion, Chuck forgot what a hand was, and Danielle ran out of bacon. It looked something like this....
Should we ditch out? In desperate need of some Mikey Z It's my hand. And they are out.. I thought you said it was raining Danielle.
The rest of us enjoyed what would be the last bit of sunshine. A ranger came and chatted us up while Bill captured some goat fights on film. It began to down pour and never stopped (13 hours in our tents). There was a water event, myself and everything I owned woke up wet. The rest of the group made a good call with their mass exodus. Matt and Mr. Ranger This is SPARTAAAA Farewell you globe of warmth.
Day Five: (7/29/14)
I despise being cold, wet and cold, even worse. Bill suggested we catch the early train to Silverton, eat some lunch, and enjoy the town. Brilliance. The pack up with numb hands and wet everything was really ruff but once I decided it was mental training I accepted, water is just water, and the discomfort was temporary. Before I knew it we were hiking out the seven miles. Having ate ALL of my food, my pack was significantly lighter and I was able to move at a much faster pace (also we were going downhill).
Morning Madness
Matt had us pose for one last camp photo:
Since the sky raged upon us the nectar of life, all of the creeks and waterfalls in the area were swollen. This made the creek crossing out of camp extra treacherous. Jenny bravely went first I look like some weird oblong hobo. Zach
Goodbye Chicago Basin
We arrived at the Needleton train stop dirty, sweaty, and an hour and change early. I started talking to a guy who had just finished backpacking 45 miles. How a person can carry that much weight for that much time is beyond me. I really like my three pound running pack. Backpacker dude (Matt) had a really sweetheart of a border collie with him, Stella. She LOVED sticks so Bill and I passed the time by playing fetch with her.
Stella Success!
Eventually the train came and whisked us away to Silverton where burgers, beers, and if you are me, three orders of delicious french fries awaited. We arrived in a raging down pour but this was becoming the norm. Lunch was delicious and Matt treated us all. Thanks again Matt! I am super happy you enjoyed your time with us. Afterwards we did some touristy shopping and I bought an amazing tee-shirt, some stickers, my father a little something from the worlds highest Harley Davidson shop, and Danielle a present.
Celebration Silverton
It was time to return to Durango where Danielle and Nathan awaited my arrival. I was very happy to see them and enjoy a hot shower and the welcoming committee (two of the cutest little boys) at Jordan and Isac's.
The entire group met for dinner at a mexican restaurant in downtown Durango. It was a great way to end a great trip. Chuck was going on and on about this french bakery when suddenly without warning the entire waitstaff surrounded our table and began the most elaborate birthday song I have ever heard. Everyone was looking at each other like, "whose birthday is it?" Turns out is was Chuck's, only not really, Mike Z had concocted a plan and it was funny! After a few margaritas and beers it was even funnier.
Dinner welcoming committee Chuck's fake birthday.
After dinner we went for ice cream and really shined our weirdness through the streets of Durango as we formed some creepy hand holding circle along various parts of the sidewalk. Once we all hugged goodbye I felt a sort of satisfied sadness, one I had not felt since I was a child. Every summer I would go to my cousins shore house and spend a week getting into all sorts of fun trouble. Every time I left I was so sad it was over but so happy to have spent my time well. This was the same feeling.
This is a truly special group of people. Everyone got their summits and returned safely. We all got along and when I say that I really mean it. With that many people, eh, with that many mountain climbers, one would think ego would cause riffs but there was absolutely none of that, just pure unadulterated, fun. Love ya all!!
Friendship is born at that moment when one man says to another: "What! You too? I thought that no one but myself...."
Everyone contributed photos~~ Muchos Gracias!
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Thanks so much for putting this together! Incredible job. It was such an amazing trip and you did it justice. Although I really was on the summit of Eolus with Chuck, Maggie and Noel. I was probably wearing my mountain ninja camouflage though so you couldn't see me
Great job, miss Going up! Very entertaining report. I'm amazed by several things: 1. You were able to get 218 pictures into one report. 2. You did it in record time. 3.You were able to take obscure pictures that we all probably forgot about and make them totally entertaining! 4. You refused to allow the rain to dampen our spirits and pulled us out of our tents to just hang out together. And finally, 5.You packed in 68 pounds and then ate 50 of it! Well done!
These photos are some of the best I have seen of that area. I was climbing some San Juan 13ers on the same days. If your weather was anything like mine you guys did a great job fitting a lot of summits into a small window of good weather.
Amazing photos, great narrative, and successful summits for all! I really need to get out more. Hopefully I can run into some of you for the Fall Gathering...
Not enough good things can be said about this TR!
We hope to head down there later this summer -
I'm hoping I can summit Sunlight as ”gracefully” as you did!
Great job, Kay! I agree with people above, this has to be the best report I've ever read/seen on this site. The pictures are so telling and captured so much of the story of this trip.
@polar He back packed never having taken the train but I ended up sneaking him and his dog on so he did not have to back pack some 10 odd miles in the pouring rain back to Silverton. Yes I am a terrible person.
@ Jay I am glad you liked it and yes Senad is WONDERFUL!
You're a terrible person, to rob Stella and her human the fun of hiking ten miles in pouring rain. I'm sure they were totally looking forward to the mud, wet fur, and soaked gear. I'm kidding of course, nice of you to sneak them onto the train. I'm also happy to know there's a way to get to Chicago Basin with my dog without taking the train.
What a FANTASTIC report!! Many thanks for sharing!
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He is in terrific shape. Some sort of super human, I never saw him eat and the altitude never phased him (even though he came from Oklahoma). The night before, as we sat around the fake camp fire he told me we looked like professionals. He said watching us all climb Eolus was inspiring and he wanted a go at it.
