Buying Gear?  Click Here
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Crestone Peak  -  14,294 feet
Crestone Needle  -  14,197 feet
 Post Date:  09/14/2013 Modified: 10/06/2013
 Date Climbed:   08/17/2013
 Posted By:  blazintoes

 Graduation Day     

It is no surprise that I am easily satisfied with the very best of weather. Aren’t we all? However, Mother Nature clearly has her own agenda. She is a thief of dreams, a real genius of unrest, immersing herself in it. Grab a Kleenex, a tear jerker ensues. Just like today, September 13, 2013, Colorado’s July weather also made headlines, “Fog is unusual in Denver, which boasts of having more than 300 sunny days a year…” July 28th, 2013 was a day where Mother Nature shacked up with the Gates of Mordor and its Towers of Teeth in a rampant fury.

On this infamous day I was to have a Fourteener Graduation with my very best friends. Some old friends, some new, I borrowed some gear and even had the blue skies; the day before. My good ol’ pal Jill has a spark for adventure that is hardly containable and was the igniter in my pursuit of Colorado’s fourteeners. She has summited everything but Lindsey, and the mighty mighty Crestones and so we planned to finish our summits together. She flew from Boise on Friday and that night we drove to the Lindsey trailhead to car camp. On a blue bird Saturday we had a nonchalant uneventful climb up Lindsey, a mountain I climbed with my husband the previous winter but it was nice to catch up with an old friend I hadn’t seen in two years. Jill brought a beautiful hand painted drawing that her husband John created with her name on it, the date and her finishing Peak; Crestone Needle. My husband Marc, who thinks we’re all completely insane climbing these unforgiving mountains, packed up Saturday afternoon with summit celebratory champagne and met Jill and I in Westcliff so we three could drive to Colony Lakes together where we would meet up with new climbing hotshot buddy Joe and his friend Tom to camp for the evening for a Sunday grand finale. And if successful, Joe and I would have completed all four great traverses together after meeting just a little over a month ago.

At the upper trailhead, Jill, Marc and I ran into the guy I nicknamed “Brandy” because the weekend prior, Joe and I summited Culebra, where no arrow heads were found but this Brandy guy brought a rather large flask with some decadent peach flavored brandy wine to share. I could not resist the offer. So Brandy and his crew, party of five and my crew, soon to be party of five all hiked toward the lake together. Heigh-Ho, Heigh- Ho, it’s off to Peaks we go….toot, toot! We finally found Joe in a primo camping spot and set up camp, while Brandy and his crew chose to camp a little higher so we bid him adieu and wished them all the best of luck. A little camp fire, dinner and tea, laughter and a plethora of climbing stories soon it was time for rest. The clouds were plump but forgiving for the evening. But by 11pm, the first water droplets fell and fell and never let up. At 3am, the wake up and go time, rain smashed down harder, turning the ground beneath me to a pool of thick muck. Tom, a brave soul put on some rain gear and ran over toward our tent and asked what I thought. I suggested that we give the weather another hour to make a go/no-go decision. At precisely 0401, the rain lashed out harder and harder, and as the wind whipped about with moisture dancing around in heavy spirals around us; in silent consensus we all drifted off in a slumber.

When I awoke at 6am, Marc and I slowly emerged from the tent to an eerie silence. Not a whisper of rustling grass, not one singing bird, just heavy wet branches, the air thick with moisture and the surrounding saturated summits hiding behind low lingering clouds. For now, the rain subsided but was predicted to return by noon. Our day thwarted since these peaks do not play nice when wet. With heavy hearts and heads hung low, we all packed up and hiked down. This beauty school dropout graduation was not meant to be…Or was it?

The weather can be cruel, but I am not one to wallow in pity however, I pondered long and hard over my next decision. So with Jill back home in Boise and Joe back to Chicago I thought, sure I’ll postpone my dream to complete the fourteeners ‘til next summer. Now I am quite certain my good friends have similar thoughts; the only thing worse than being pensive for not accomplishing ones goals, is for others to know of your sadness. Although I can’t fully explain, after several conversations with disappointed friends and family I came to a conclusion where I got tired of thinking and regretting. The first time I stood atop Quandary Peak last summer, it was love at first hike. The very next weekend I completed the outrageous DeCaLiBro then drove over and hiked Sherman for five peaks in one day. This new found obsession possessed me and 14ers.com was to blame. The website, the community and 300 days of Colorado sunshine, the only thing getting in my way was a five day work week and a concerned husband.

One encouraging text from Jill and another from Joe to “Go for it…I would” is all it took for me to pack up my trusty steed Roobie and my stud muffin Ocho for a solo Blazintoe Adventure of a lifetime. If successful, I will have completed all 58 Colorado Fourteeners in one year’s time. So, August 16, 2013 on a clear warm summer night after work, I took the long familiar drive up to Westcliff. The lower lot was already packed and since I had my mountain bike, “El Ocho”, I decided to car camp and launch from there. At 0400 Saturday morning with toes ablaze I was pedaling my way up to Colony Lakes. On this day it was surprisingly clear, the moon high in the sky and a gentle breeze causing a rustling of tree leaves. By sunrise I found a nice hiding spot for Ocho and made my way toward Broken Hand pass with my dancing boots, fully prepared for a conga line. The place was packed.

On the front side, Broken Hand Pass is steep and loose, which is a fleeting concern for the returning descent. Once on top, I was surrounded by fellow hikers when I had my first conversation of the day. I am almost always reluctant to boast of my grand plan to strangers in fear of that great bastard Murphy but my mouth couldn’t help but flap in the breeze. Broken Hand Pass on the backside is not as dreadful as I’ve read about perhaps because of the views. The eyes make the legs forget. The grand San Luis Valley leading its way up this cirque of the bouldery beloved Sangre de Cristo’s is stunning. With my little Miss Sunshine self-fulfilling prophetic aura, I stomped my way down to Cottonwood Lake and although beautiful, was skeeter infested so I couldn’t linger as long as I’d liked.

From Cottonwood Lake, the Red Gully is obvious. My excitement led the way. Here the conga line began and the common theme was, “Rock” as quite a few were sent careening downward. The center of the gully was not where I wanted to be so I jutted climbers’ right and was surprised to scramble my way to the gully notch at 14,100 in so little time. With just under 200 feet to summit, the final conglomerate rock ledges were a welcomed known quantity. The scramble to the top was delightful. Once on the summit I was not alone as ten or so other summiteers celebrated with me on #57, yippie! My cel phone worked long enough for me to call Marc and tell him, one down, one to go!

I felt amazing and was too excited to dillydally long. The original plan was to summit Crestone Peak via the South face and red gully, down climb all the way to Cottonwood Lake, back up Broken Hand Pass and climb my final peak, Crestone Needle via the South face. But the buzz was out amongst all other climbers and a group of four that I caught on my down climb of the Red gully enticed me to attempt the traverse with them. Oh boy, I’d promised Joe and Jill that I’d save the traverse for them next year and made sure not to bring any beta so that I wouldn’t be tempted. At first I appreciated the offer and turned it down but then one guy made an interesting point, that if successful today I’d feel proud to know I climbed 58 fourteeners with all great traverses in one year. My buddies understand my conundrum and would’ve been as easily tempted. Instantly what little oxygen I had left in my head remembered every aspect of the traverse; first, down climb 300 feet to the first grassy ledge to begin the traverse. The group of four had good beta with descriptions and pictures but they were moving slower than I wanted. Besides, the longer I ponder the more I suffer from what I call chickenitis and now that I was committed to this traverse, I wanted to keep these fancy feet moving so, solo I went.

Now I was standing on the first open ridge, the next goal was to find the gully that lead to the next ridge. There were dispersed cairns along the way that lead me to another gully but this one didn’t feel right. About half-way up the gully, a couple started coming down towards me with info that the top cliffed out. We three turned back toward the ledge and studied their traverse description, which was wildly different than the original group I started climbing with. Hmmm. The info the couple had depicted a long route right of the second open ridge then descend the wide gully however, the maps I remembered were to climb directly toward the black gendarme to find the one technical obstacle, once up and above, take a quick right turn. Despite my instinct to go find this obstacle, I climbed with them to check out the wide gully, which eventually cliffed out. They decided to turn around, descend then continue pursuing the open ridge while I chose to head toward the black gendarme. Once there I could see a rappel tied to a boulder stuck in the wide crack. The rope was solid but I also studied the right and left sides of this obstacle. The original group of four that I started the traverse with was finally at the second ledge and had a good view directly at me. The leader of their band shouted from afar, “hey, Amy, that’s a 5.2 pitch that will lead you to the summit ridge!” I shouted back, “alright, thanks, I see a good line up!” I studied the rock once more then attempted the left side without the rope. At first the rock is up close and personal right smack in your face, my heart pounds and I tell myself I can do this. All it took was one solid hand hold while my feet followed and voila, there I stood on top.

From here I took a right turn, hopped over a couple cracks and arrived at the base of the second gendarme. The remaining route is a climbing zig-zag pattern on knobby good, firm rock. All-of-a-sudden I found myself on a very airy ridge and thought, no way this can’t be it. To be honest, the final ridge, for me presented the biggest mental challenge because although not steep, the rock smooths out limiting hand and foot traction with nothing but air on both sides. I heard the chatter of other summiteers and thought, alright, that couple made it too and poof, there I was on top of the Crestone Needle, #58 my final mountain. Waaaahooooooo! Once on top I bellowed with joy. “I can’t believe I did it!”

However, the folks on top were not the couple, they asked, where did you come from? Well, that’s a loaded question but my flappy gums proudly professed my day’s accomplishments. Oh, if only I had a megaphone. They congratulated me then made their way back down the Needle. I sent Marc a final summit SPOT message knowing he was tracking my progress for the day. The next thirty minutes was a God send. How lucky am I to have my final summit all to myself with nil wind, nothing but lazy puffy clouds and 360 degree views of my all favorite peaks? I was a chirpy bird perched on a ledge made only for me…well not really but I felt compelled to do a little celebratory summit dance. Eventually I sat on my perch, and touched the summit rocks feeling the life in them. I tipped my head back, eyes shut for just a moment of silence. Complete solitude is rare on such a popular mountain. The calm overwhelmed me with loving serenity. Tears of joy befell my eyes. After some considerable alone time I started to worry about that couple. Not wanting to leave, I slowly packed away all my goodies, donned my day pack and glanced once more back at the traverse where they finally peaked their exhausted heads. They said the Gerry Roach traverse description eventually served them well. We all took a few quick photos but they were both ready to get down the mountain and wondered if I knew the way. Well, no, but I do know there are deadly ways down the mountain however, I had a GPS track and PDF file of the route.

Climbing up a mountain is the easy part, the summit optional, but getting off the mountain is often where most accidents occur. The mountains will allow safe passage however; complacency and impatience will be punished. Patience is the biggest lesson I’ve learned this year. Descending a mountain takes time and must be appreciated. I was delighted to oblige. At first we descended to the right of the summit and quickly the gully got steeper and looser. The GPS track pointed to my left, so I climbed back up to a small ledge; from here I could see the West gully and shouted back, “hey, we have to go this way”. I waited, then led the way down the steep stable gully. I scrambled laterally across a rib to see the class 4 variation of the West gully. This rock is tricky and will lead you astray, while most of it is conglomerate with good hand and foot placement opportunities, the long glaciation process causes a softness to the clasts. Climbing this rock wet would be nearly impossible. While descending together, I found time to check out multiple options then report back to the couple making sure they were okay. Finally, we found the East gully, from the top I could see the good trail heading toward Broken Hand Pass. From here we parted ways and I swiftly disappeared from view.

At Broken Hand Pass now, I crossed paths with the band leader of team OMG and picked his brain about Denali. The equipment and experience needed is exhausting. I enjoyed his stories so much, I forgot all about the steep and slippery Broken Hand Pass. Finally, I found Ocho unscathed and blasted down the hill. The ride down was my reward for a job well done. With cel reception now, I had a message from Marc that said, “you made it…you just couldn’t resist the traverse could you? Congratulations, you did it!” Yes, Graduation day was a success and a proper celebration was in order. Although sharing this journey seemed the perfect romantic ending, solo I began this quest, and solo is how it ends. My heart sinks like the setting sun, I tip my hat and ride away.

A summit celebration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=II9me_vqPPI



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
iholdthepain


Irresistible...     2013-09-14 18:16:02
...succumbing to the temptation of the traverse. Thank you for the great read, and congratulations on a great accomplishment!


Kolo


Peace and contentment!     2013-09-14 18:45:20
Congratulations on finishing and what a great peak to finish on! In viewing your You Tube video one can sense your pure joy and happiness!


Exiled Michigander


Congrats!     2013-09-16 12:45:09
Great trip report! ”Brandy” here--we were more bummed back in July that you and Jill couldn't do the traverse together than that we couldn't get a summit in! It's great that you finished this year--it would have ate at you all winter if you hadn't! Hopefully we'll meet on a summit soon so that I can take a celebratory swig of brandy with you!


greenonion


Way to go!!     2013-09-25 16:45:08
Way to go on number 58. Did you say you've done all 58 just in the past year? I've read several of your TRs this year and have thoroughly enjoyed them. So well written, entertaining, with great beta.


blazintoes


Yes, Yes!     2013-10-01 06:47:31
Yes, greenonion...all 58 in one years time. I can't believe it myself. I tried sending you a PM. Did you get it? You know, I didn't grow up in an outdoorsy type family so I've had to learn the hard way as an old timey 37 year old wild woman (wink, wink). Now I've been tackling the 13ers however; I won't push this goal as hard. Marc will make me a dog house out back if I do...

Also, the solitude and beauty I've experienced leaves me wanting to share with words, a hobby for now. I'm humbled with each comment I receive so thank you...

Hey Brandy, how about some 13er celebratory swigs?

Kolo, I just submitted my video for the dance off challenge hoping to make people smile amidst frequent bad news.

iholdthepain, no I hold the pain...haaaa! With traverse experience I look at my new 13er endeavors with much vigor.


LePhantom


A Post-Graduate Program     2013-10-17 08:31:33
First of all, a BIG CONGRATULATIONS on having completed all 58 Fourteeners -- particularly for having done so in a single year. And, what’s more, you did it without skipping a single one of the four (or five) designated “Grand Traverses”!!

Hey, I’ll bet you were wondering why the long silence on my part. My apologies. It had to do with the rather rainy weather we had here in the PRB a couple of weeks ago. Much to my surprise, it appears that coax cable can in fact waterlog! Hey, having missed the prime-time for responding to your email, this belated commentary feels less public and more personal anyway. I kind of like that…


So, Ms Blazintoes, what’s next?

For what it’s worth, I would definitely say, ”Climb Higher!” And, of course, you said as much yourself – when you mentioned the magic word in your concluding paragraph: ”Denali”!

Throughout the summer, you have repeatedly and successfully demonstrated both your mountaineering skills and your extraordinary physical stamina (and, as you so wisely pointed out your wisdom -- as in “patience”!).

Clearly, after this past summer’s many adventures you are at your peak (yep, admittedly a pun) performance level – one that will be hard to surpass in the years to come. So, here’s my humble suggestion for a possible post-graduate program: while you maintain your conditioning by climbing select Thirteeners (as in, Argentina), you might want to consider engaging with the CMC to gain some additionally advanced technical expertise.

Then maybe you could consider trying Mt Rainer next summer. And, then on to Denali the following year. If it would help, I could put you in touch with a fellow who has done about a dozen Fourteeners with me who has a 100 page write-up on his climb of Denali that he could probably share with you – anyway, it was the best TR (and adventure story) that I have ever read about that mountain.

Continued...


LePhantom


Grad School:Part II     2013-10-17 08:39:17
And then -- and, beware, as this is where I am leading you (and Marc) -- you might even want to set a goal of climbing The Big E! Whoa, before you (and Marc) choke, consider this: A few years ago, while working out with a local running group, I found myself jogging alongside a woman who was training for that ultimate climb. Physically, there was really nothing really extraordinary about her. However, you could quickly discern that she was committed. And, it’s the commitment that counts -- okay, and about $100,000 and four full months away from home (and your day job). She summited Everest in 2006. Her name was Tonya Riggs (now Tonya Riggs Clement). If you should have an opportunity, you might want to look her up on the Internet. She has posted several captivating video clips – and, she has always been very willing to share her climbing experiences with others (I can share her email address if you’d like to have it). Tonya’s start in climbing was in many ways very much like yours.

So, I guess it all really depends on how far you (and Marc) want to go with this. And, basically, if you want to go to the top, the time to start training and planning is now – as in, “now-or-never”.

And, in closing, as I see it another well worn cliché is appropriate for you as well as well: “The Sky’s The Limit!”

PS: Sorry to learn that you found no arrowheads on Culebra. Perhaps I will head back up there this coming summer and seed the ridgeline with arrowheads that I have found elsewhere. These artifacts speak to us from a distant past -- and a very very different time. In a way, each is a token that has been left to remind us (in a gentle way) of our own mortality. I always pause to ponder when I find one -- and, as a measure of the experience, I never seem to forget the precise setting, either...


blazintoes


Time and Money     2013-11-01 11:33:06
LePhantom, How I have missed thee...

Time/Money/Marriage are my constraints. Also, a bout of plantar faciitis has kept me grounded for a few weeks now. I'm desperately seeking solutions. In the meantime as advised, I joined CMC and have been learning top rope climbing.

Yes, please send the Denali story.

I've been writing about my Colorado Trail trip, which coincided with finishing the 14ers but I also have a bad case of writer's block. If my heart doesn't feel it, my fingers can't type it.

Oh, this Tonya Riggs: http://www.everestpeaceproject.com/about/everest-peace-climbers/tonya-riggs-clement.html


LePhantom


Time and Money are Inversly Proportional     2013-11-07 20:25:22
Ugh, plantar faciitis. That malady has been the bain of many a fellow distance runner. Unfortunately, it is hard to cure. Fortunately it is never fatal. My recommendation would be to throttle back on the miles, stay off of concrete, and try adding a patch of ”molefoam” adjacent to the affected area on the base of the foot. Also, check to insure that you are wearing shoes that have not lost their impact absorbing capacity -- through either age or wear. You may also want to consider switching types of shoes - and size them to give the foot a little more room. Hope those suggestions help...

Ah, you've called my bluff on the Denali narrative! Hmmm, this will not be easy, but I will give it a try. My Fourteener climbing partner who shared the document with me moved from Niwot to Santa Barbara a couple of years ago and then from Santa Barbara to Charlottesville a couple of months ago. He passed through Boulder on his way east but we were unable to hook up. That would have been the time to take delivery!

However, I will try to get him to make a copy and send it along. Maybe he could scan a ”pdf” version that I could provide to you via a link. Incidentally, my buddy didn't write the narrative, but he does star in it -- along with a Space Shuttle Astronaut who had to bail out on the upslope. If I can get you a copy, it would definitely provide a great tutorial about Denali -- especially vis-à-vis the tedium and hassle of spending a stressful month at altitude...

Yep, that's my former jogging buddy, Tonya. Now, don't you absolutely agree that the two of you have much in common!

Don't worry about the ”writer's block”. Remember, only real writers can even get ”writer's block”. It's a good sign! And, you might note that Cheryl Strayed didn't start writing ”WILD” until at least ten years after her hike along the PCT. You did read ”WILD” right?!?

And, I'm glad to learn that you are hanging with the CMC. Great folks!

In the meantime, take it easy, get well, and keep climbing.

PS: I'll get an email directly to you back-channel via the 14ers.com server as soon as I find out whether or not I can secure a copy of that rather lengthy Denali narrative.


LePhantom


Quick Follow-up on Denali     2013-11-10 18:53:07
I think that I have received an email message that means that you will soon have access to a copy of my climbing buddy’s 100+ page narrative of his adventures on Denali.

I say “I think” because, as you will see, his email is not easily deciphered. However, to ease your work in translation, I would guess that: (i) “PNG” = Papua New Guinea, (ii) “Buellton” = Santa Barbara, and (iii) “TG” = Thanks Giving. Oh, and ”Lambert” might the Astronaut...

Anyway, by way of an update, here’s the relevant portion of my buddy's email:

“At your prompting, I sent an email to David Melick. Last we emailed, he was in PNG working for the World Wildlife Fund. I also got in touch with Dahr Jamail, another climber from that climb (David's tent mate). An interesting fellow, he became an independent journalist; http://dahrjamail.net. I have at least one hard copy in Buellton and will be there for TG, so can get/make a pdf then. It would be fun to get in touch with Lambert and I bet he has a copy as David penned to story at his house in Houston...I'll do that.”

Is this email not proof enough that mountain climbers are a very odd lot?!?


LePhantom


Denali Or Bust     2013-11-13 08:59:39
Amy,

Got it!

Although the Denali report weighs in at over 60,000 words, it occupies less than 500KB in ”pdf” format. So, it shouldn't be too difficult to email to you.

Per my last ”Post a Comment” message, I'll try to email the report to you backchannel -- via the 14ers.com website. Although I have received numerous emails via that website, I have never before originated one that way - let alone tried to forward an attachment.

Anyway, I'll plan to give it a try later today. Cross your fingers and let's see what happens!

Cheers and best regards,

Jeff



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.