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 Peak(s):  Crestone Needle  -  14,197 feet
 Post Date:  09/12/2013 Modified: 10/04/2013
 Date Climbed:   08/17/2013
 Posted By:  strudolyubov
 Additional Members:   r_kalas

 Ellingwood Arete (Ledges Start)   

Climbers: strudolyubov, r_kalas
Route: Ellingwood Arete (Ledges Start) with approach from Upper South Colony TH
Date: Aug. 17, 2013
Trip Length: 10.5 miles RT
Elevation Gain: 4,450 ft.

Roped Pitches: 2
Gear: 60m 9.6mm rope, 1 set of BD stoppers, 1 set of BD cams to 2" plus a set of OP LinkCams, several shoulder-length and a few double-length slings.
Fixed Gear: There were 4 fixed pitons on the 5.6 variation of pitch 1 and one fixed piton above the crux on pitch 2.

The Route

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Route Map


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The outline of the route. Blue line - scrambling/hiking. Red line - roped climbing on the upper headwall.


South Colony Lakes Approach

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Broken Hand Peak (left), Broken Hand Pass (center) and Crestone Needle as seen on the approach


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Morning light on Crestone Needle


Ledges Start

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A more detailed view of the Ledges Start.


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A wide crack in the lower headwall used to gain the ledges (Class 4).


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Ryan climbing the crack.


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Scrambling on the lower ledges.


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More ledges scrambling.


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Approaching the Red Knob.


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Ryan climbing above the Red Knob


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Fun scrambling on knobby rock with lots of ledges


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Approaching the upper headwall


The Headwall Climb

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Looking up the first headwall pitch. Dashed red lines show the standard 5.6 and 5.9 variations.


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Looking down at South Colony Lakes from the base of the first roped pitch.


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The other party is starting the 5.9 variation. The 5.6 line we took is seen on the right.


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A small roof in the middle of the first pitch. There are at least 4 fixed pitons on that pitch.


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Looking down from ~35 meters up the first pitch


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Looking up the last section of the first pitch. We ended up simulclimbing to a small ledge 30 feet above the standard belay ledge. Photo: Ryan


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Looking up the 5.7 crux section on the second pitch


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Looking down from above the crux on the second pitch.


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Finishing the second pitch. Photo: Ryan


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Looking down from the top of the second pitch.


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Looking up the Class 3 gully leading to the summit ridge.


Crestone Needle summit and South Face route descent

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Crestone Peak and traverse seen from Crestone Needle summit


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The South Face descent gully entrance


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Descending the west gully. Photo: Ryan


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Looking back at the South Face of Crestone Needle


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Descending from Broken Hand Pass


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Looking back at Crestone Needle from Lower South Colony Lake



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
DanielL



Awesome     2013-09-12 16:55:19
I really want to do this route sometime. Thanks for posting!


Monster5


Awesome beta!     2013-09-13 09:21:06
Your descriptions are always nice. I hoped to do the route this weekend, but I have a feeling that isn't happening.


goingup


Again....     2013-09-13 10:34:41
with the awesomeness!!!!


strudolyubov

Thanks     2013-09-27 17:46:28
Thanks for the comments everyone!

Ellingwood Arete is an excellent route in a spectacular setting, - a true classic, definitely worth climbing.



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