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 Peak(s):  Gannett Peak - 13,809 feet
 Post Date:  09/13/2013
 Date Climbed:   07/24/2010
 Posted By:  lajohn
 Gannett Peak - Titcomb Basin   

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Intro:
First of all, this is my first trip report so judge accordingly...

I'm really late in posting this as we climbed Gannett in July 2010. Better late than never though I guess? The three of us try and get together once every couple years and go and an "epic" climb that usually involves a long approach. We've done a bunch of the volcanoes up in WA (Rainier, Olympus, Glacier, etc) and decided to give the Wind River Range in WY a try this time!

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In the parking lot ready to get after it. Dustin, Loren, and John


The trip took us 5.5 days (quick hike out the last day) and is beautiful, awe-inspiring, and an ass kicker all at the same time! We approached the mountain on the Pole Creek/Seneca Lake trail and then through the Titcomb Basin.

Roundtrip Mileage: ~42 miles
Elevation gain:
Hike into to camp: 2,480’
Camp to Bonney Pass: 2,180’
Camp to Gannett & back: 5,770’
Hike out to TH: 1,000’

Total elevation gain for trek: @11,500’ *

* undulations for climbs out of lake basins, etc. taken into account.

The hike starts off pretty easy and slowly climbs the first ~5 miles to Photograher's Point. I'll go ahead and mention the mosquitoes. The mountaineering shop in Jackson told us the mosquitoes were "the worst they've been in 25 years" at this time. Sounds about right, haha. They had a ton of late season snow and it was a perfect breeding ground for the little bastards. I'm originally from Houston and I've never seen mosquitoes like this, it was awful and I don't say that lightly.

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Yours truly at Photographer's Point about 5 miles in


The trail goes in and out of lake basin after lake basin and has just a bunch of 3 to 400 ft. elevation gains and drops.

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One of the many creek crossings along the trail


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Seneca Lake I think...


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The trail drops into a little basin just before Island Lake


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Island Lake is amazing!


We camped the second night at the Lower Titcomb lake. The next day we made it a short day by moving into high camp just above the Upper Titcomb Lake. This gave us a "rest day" to some degree and shortened summit day a bit!

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The View from our campsite on night 2. The Titcomb Basin is so surreal it looks fake in pictures!


Summit Day:

Summit day on Gannett is long. It climbs 5,700 ft. over glaciers and rock, it took us roughly 12 hours roundtrip and is a huge day.

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Loren and I climbing up Bonney Pass


First you climb up Bonney Pass, ~2,300 ft. It's a snow slog and isn't too steep (35 degrees).

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Loren coming up the dreaded Bonney Pass


Once you're on top of Bonney Pass you get your first view of Gannett, but it's just a tease! You first have to drop 1,200 ft. down onto the Dinwoody Glacier. We glissaded down most of it, which was a blast. When I got up and tried to put my hip belt back on I realized a rock had sheared the plastic on my hip belt rendering it useless. Not what I needed on a 12 hour summit day.

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There she is! The first view of Gannett from the top of Bonney Pass


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Looking back up Bonney Pass from the Dinwoody Glacier


We took ropes and harnesses for the glaciers but didn't rope up because the conditions were still so good.

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The route up the Dinwoody, easy snow slog!


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The route gets steeper at the top of the glacier and turns onto the rock bands to the right


After you exit the Dinwoody, you scramble around the corner to the right. It's mostly Class 3 in my opinion, but there might be 1 or 2 Class 4 moves.

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Climbing steeper snow just before the bergschrund!


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Looking at the upper part of the route from the 'schrund


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Loren climbing up steep snow above the 'schrund


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After climbing some Class 3 rock looking at the remaining route. The summit is on the right side of the photo.


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Sweet view of the Wind River Range


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Myself on the summit ridge, it's the easiest part of the climb. Just don't slide to the right....it goes a few thousand feet down.


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Group summit shot! There was one solo guy up there that took our picture.


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Finally on the summit, it's a long ways but totally worth it.


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All smiles on the way down!


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Myself coming down the steepest snow section above the bergschrund.


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View from high camp after summit day, beautiful place!


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Duct tape anyone? Knew it would come in handy! Had to fix my pack for the 17 mile trek out.


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Leaving the Titcomb Basin


I highly recommend this trip, the Wind River's are one of a kind and should be on every mountaineer's list to see at least once!

Hope you enjoyed the belated trip report.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):


  • Comments or Questions (5)
Kent McLemore


Super report...     2013-09-13 05:56:08
Some fine mountains there. Thanks for posting.


Monster5


Fantastic     2013-09-13 09:08:37
I'm drooling over the snow. Looks nice. Heck of an effort and a lot of miles. Based on recommendations from a friend, I was hoping to split the cost of an outfitter and have them drop our packs at camp. I might be a bit lazier than you guys.


lajohn


Outfitters     2013-09-13 11:56:41
Ya, the outfitters really help! It's 17 miles into the titcomb basin and our packs probably weighed 55-60 lbs with all our mountaineering gear.


skiwall


Awesome!     2013-09-15 08:43:49
Nice work! Nice to see a TR w/o using outfitters, even though I know they're helpful!


MatB


Sweeeet     2013-09-18 12:45:30
Nice TR. 55-60 lbs is too much. You guys really earned that summit and I couldn't agree more about the winds.



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