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 Peak(s):  Sunlight Peak  -  14,059 feet
Mt. Eolus  -  14,083 feet
Windom Peak  -  14,082 feet
 Post Date:  09/03/2013 Modified: 09/10/2013
 Date Climbed:   09/03/2013
 Posted By:  DeniseSnow

 My Final Fourteeners - Finally!   

Sunlight Peak (14,059’)
Mount Eolus (14,083')
Windom Peak (14,082')
San Juan Range; the Needle Mountains

Dates: September 3rd thru 7th, 2013
Trailhead: Needle Creek Trail, No. 504 (accessed from the Needleton stop on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad)
Distance: ~23 1/2 miles RT (12 miles RT from train stop to camp, 3 1/2 miles RT from camp to Sunlight Peak, 4 miles RT from camp to Mount Eolus, and 4 miles RT from camp to Windom Peak)
Elevation Gain: ~12,000’ (~3000' from train to camp, and 3000' per summit)
Difficulty: Easy but steep trail to Twin Lakes. Lots of CFI trail improvement on approach to peaks from Twin Lakes. Class 4 on Sunlight Peak, Class 3 (and perphaps 3+) on Mount Eolus, and Class 2+ (but I would add a couple of Class 3 moves) on Windom Peak).
Exposure: A little exposure on the final approach to the summit of Sunlight Peak and then a lot on the final summit block of Sunlight Peak. A lot of exposure on the Sidewalk in the Sky (also called the Catwalk) on Mount Eolus and in places on the final climb to the summit of Mount Eolus. A little exposure on the summit of Windom Peak.
Resources Used For Trip Planning: Trails Illustrated map, Weminuche Wilderness, #140; weather forecast (NOAA); A Climbing Guide to Colorado's Fourteeners, Walter R, Borneman and Lyndon J. Lampert; Colorado's Fourteeners, Gerry Roach.

Introduction

It has been over twenty years since I climbed my first 14er in Colorado. It wasn't like I hadn't been doing anything in between. There were other 14ers such as Rainier, the Matterhorn and La Malinche in Mexico. There were 15ers, 17ers and 18ers such as the Mont Blanc, Iztaccihuatl, and El Pico de Orizba. And there were many 13ers (such as the Grand Teton) and different routes up Colorado 14ers (such as the Cross Couloir on Holy Cross and the Cable Route on Longs Peak) to explore.

So I finally decided to finish my Colorado 14ers upon retirement. And what better way to finish than in Chicago Basin with my good friends Marlyn Peet and Carson Black. Marlyn and Carson were so gracious to accompany me since they had already climbed these peaks numerous times before.

We started our trip on the famous Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad where we were dropped off at Needleton. The only damper on our trip was the hour and a half of steady rain we encountered on our hike in to Chicago Basin. However, all our climbing days were weather free, which is a blessing for the San Juans.

My Final Fourteeners...

We woke up at 5:00 to totally cloudy skies. I should have followed a similar approach that my friend Darin Baker had used on a previous trip to Wildhorse Peak and Blackwall Mountain, which was to start out and see if the weather cleared up. However, we slept in until 6:45 and awoke to mostly clear skies! Getting a late start we decided to head up Sunlight and see what happened.

The trail from Chicago Basin to Twin Lakes is a work of art (and sweat) by the CFI. The scenery is spectacular and worthy of the trip on its own. Wildlife is in abundance everywhere.

Image
Chicago Basin is teeming with life


Image
A natural fountain by Twin Lakes


I decided to take the standard route up Sunlight via the red couloir. Carson and Marlyn made their own routes.

Image
My approach up Sunlight's red couloir


Carson and Marlyn climbed up to the summit block. I scrambled up and took a look at the gap and the way across. Carson had carried a rope and was willing to belay me, but there was no way to belay from the summit block itself, only from below. I was grateful for the gracious offer, but I decided to decline.

Image
Carson on Sunlight's summit block


Image
Alpine glow from camp


Marlyn and I left for Mount Eolus the next day. Carson decided to climb Peak 11 since he hadn't climbed it yet and it was on his top 300 list.

Image
The Sidewalk in the Sky on Eolus


I really enjoyed the Sidewalk in the Sky; it was very solid rock for the most part. However, several people we talked to turned around at this point.

Image
Marlyn on the Sidewalk in the Sky


But I was not thrilled with the final approach to the summit; it was loose, steep and exposed it many places. I was very careful on this section.

Image
The final approach to the summit of Eolus


Image
Me on the summit of Eolus


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More wildlife on the way down


The next day all three of us climbed Windom Peak. We were lucky to have a third beautiful weather day in a row.

Image
Carson near the summit of Windom


Image
Carson and Marlyn on the summit of Windom


Image
A window to Chicago Basin


Just for fun, on the way down Windom Peak, Carson and Marlyn decided to climb Peak 18 on the west shoulder of Windom Peak. I hiked down to its base with them and then decided that it was a little more than I wanted to tackle. I sat down and watched them climb through my monocular.

Image
Marlyn and Carson summit Peak 18


They say that Sunlight Peak was named for "rays of sunlight shimmering through its summit needles". This probably is true, but this view of its sunlit face from Chicago Basin was prominent every evening.

Image
Sunlight on Sunlight


As we were packing up camp the next day a herd of 30 goats came into camp. They were after the salt in our urine and remained in camp for a couple of hours, constantly battling each other for rights.

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Mountain goats invade our camp


We left at 3:30 from Needleton. I learned where the phrase "blowing off steam" comes from as the train did just that to reduce the pressure on the engine.

Image
The train arrives


Image
Blowing steam


It was a great ending to my 14er saga. Thank you Marlyn and Carson for everything!

Denise



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (3)
d_baker


Yah Denise!     2013-09-11 14:27:15
The picture of Carson collecting water reminds me of when he joined me on my Chicago Basin trip a few years ago! But I think he filled his bottle from snow melt, which I'm sure you've seen him do countless times before too!

Glad to see you finish your goal, and I'm glad to have joined you on some of the other things in between!

Thanks for posting Denise...and I hope to see/hear something about the rest of Marlyn's trip.


jsdratm


re:     2013-09-11 14:46:15
Hey Denise, congratulations! I had fun hiking with you on the CMC Bolivia trip and hope to see you again on a future CMC trip.


Fisching


Awesome     2013-09-11 14:59:21
Awesome photos, awesome trip, and most of all, awesome job on completing the 14ers.



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