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 Peak(s):  Mt. Sneffels  -  14,150 feet
 Post Date:  08/19/2013 Modified: 08/22/2013
 Date Climbed:   08/10/2013
 Posted By:  jesse
 South West Ridge Morning Scramble   

Our original plan was to go for the Train and Chicago Basin right away...

Marc and I left Denver early and although we made good time to Ouray, heavy bands of rain and forcasts of more mositure let us to alternative plans.
We decided on Sneffles' SW Ridge route, and possibly Teapot Coffeepot and Potosi Peaks the next day.

A decent start put us at Wright's Lake before sunrise and on the way to Blue Lake Pass with good prospects of an early summit.

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Early morning high in Yankee Boy Basin


From the upper basin Teapot Coffeepot and Potosi Peaks looked great!

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Looking towards Teakettle Mountain Coffeepot & Potosi Peak


Gilpin Peak gained first light, I understand why it's yet another great San Juan mountain to climb.

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On the trail to Blue Lake Pass


We made it to Blue Lake Pass in no time and were on our way up the SW Ridge.



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The view of Sneffles S ridge from Blue Lake Pass


Following the route was straightforward, the obvious line stays mostly West (left) of the ridge and it's many jagged towers.

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Dallas Peak


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Partway up the ridge with Gilpin peak behind


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Lizard Head Wilson Group and Dallas Peak


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Many impressive pinnicles can easily be bypassed


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Marc Kissing Camels


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Following to correct route they were easy to spot


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Folling Cairns over to only steps on the east side of the ridge was simple. At the notch is when you move over and then the final few hundred feet come into view.

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Morning pics are always fun


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Dallas Peak I'm be seeing you soon




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Bring on the Sandwiches


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Teapot Coffeepot and Potosi Peaks


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Mount Sneffles Summit 14,150


The descent of the standard route was easy and almost completely dry.

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The Teapot!


Many parties were climbing directly up the scree on the left side of the lower gully looked terrible few had helmets... The terrain is much easier on the right side of this slope and there is a trail as well.

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South Ridge viewed from low on the standard route


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Almost all of the scrambling is on the West side of the ridge


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View of the Ridge from above Wright's Lake


Back down to the car around 10:00am we decided it was time to head to Chicago Basin and the Sunlight Spire!



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):


  • Comments or Questions
scottaskinger


Great Video Footage!     2013-08-24 21:18:34
Congrats, looks like fun. I'm planning on doing this route early next week and was wondering if there is any snow on the route that would require an axe or spikes. Looks pretty dry but just want to make sure. Any help is appreciated!


jesse


No Snow     2013-08-25 01:44:08
Very tiny amounts in shadow that is easily avoided no spikes or axe needed as of 8/11/13. Thanks I like the video in addition to all the pictures. Climbing this ridge is really fun and straight forward


scottaskinger


Thanks Jesse...     2013-08-25 11:23:42
I appreciate the update!



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