Our original plan was to go for the Train and Chicago Basin right away...
Marc and I left Denver early and although we made good time to Ouray, heavy bands of rain and forcasts of more mositure let us to alternative plans.
We decided on Sneffles' SW Ridge route, and possibly Teapot Coffeepot and Potosi Peaks the next day.
A decent start put us at Wright's Lake before sunrise and on the way to Blue Lake Pass with good prospects of an early summit.
Early morning high in Yankee Boy Basin
From the upper basin Teapot Coffeepot and Potosi Peaks looked great!
Looking towards Teakettle Mountain Coffeepot & Potosi Peak
Gilpin Peak gained first light, I understand why it's yet another great San Juan mountain to climb.
On the trail to Blue Lake Pass
We made it to Blue Lake Pass in no time and were on our way up the SW Ridge.
The view of Sneffles S ridge from Blue Lake Pass
Following the route was straightforward, the obvious line stays mostly West (left) of the ridge and it's many jagged towers.
Partway up the ridge with Gilpin peak behind
Lizard Head Wilson Group and Dallas Peak
Many impressive pinnicles can easily be bypassed
Marc Kissing Camels
Following to correct route they were easy to spot
Folling Cairns over to only steps on the east side of the ridge was simple. At the notch is when you move over and then the final few hundred feet come into view.
Morning pics are always fun
Dallas Peak I'm be seeing you soon
Bring on the Sandwiches
Teapot Coffeepot and Potosi Peaks
Mount Sneffles Summit 14,150
The descent of the standard route was easy and almost completely dry.
Many parties were climbing directly up the scree on the left side of the lower gully looked terrible few had helmets... The terrain is much easier on the right side of this slope and there is a trail as well.
South Ridge viewed from low on the standard route
Almost all of the scrambling is on the West side of the ridge
View of the Ridge from above Wright's Lake
Back down to the car around 10:00am we decided it was time to head to Chicago Basin and the Sunlight Spire!
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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