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Named Mt. Sherman in 1881 for Civil War General William Tecumseh Sherman, most climbers instead opt to refer to this majestic mountain by its local name, Shermapangma. The stunning pyramid of black rock, shimmering ice and eternal snow is the crown jewel of the Rocky Mountains, and Shermapangma's aesthetic lines have inspired generations of climbers to dare against the impossible.
For me, Shermapangma was something I'd never even dreamed of attempting. It was simply out of my league. I was content to limit myself to lesser mountains such as Capitol Peak, Little Bear Peak and Mt. Eolus, but as my peak list grew, so did my ambition. I heard the mountain's siren song luring me every time I laid eyes on it from nearby summits. Alas, to attempt Shermapangma is the pinnacle of alpinism, and the skills of the fabled few who have touched its apex far surpass my own.
Then, I received a fateful phone call from Dan McCool. Our life-changing discussion centered on a pipe dream: the first alpine-ascent of the mythical Fischer Face, without bottled oxygen. His idea was so ludicrous I almost hung up the phone and unfriended him on Facebook. The route, named for a mountaineer who reached its base, looked up, and promptly quit climbing altogether to live a life as a missionary in the flatlands of Brazil, is a perfect storm of challenges.
First, one must complete an arduous one-mile approach through a region so desolate only the ruins of civilization still exist. The lack of inhabitants also means a lack of porters; prospective climbers must carry murderous 10- to 15-pound loads themselves. The face itself is a towering 100 feet high, the longest continuous mountain face in the world -- or at least within a quarter-mile radius. The only previous party to have attempted the face had to bivouac three times, hanging from ice screws, before retreating without reaching the top.
If by some miracle we surmounted the face, the route turns right and joins the standard South Col. From there the infamous Rangerguy2010 Step looms overhead, blocking easy access to the summit cone. The Rangerguy2010 Step had never been free climbed, and every successful Shermapangma summiter has relied on a ladder bolted to the rock by the Koreans in 1956.
My hands were sweating by the time I got off the phone with Dan. And yet, I'd agreed. A chance at the first ascent of the Fischer Face, followed by an attempt to free the Rangerguy2010 Step, was a once-in-a-lifetime proposition. I immediately began writing my Piolet d'Or acceptance speech. Now all we had to do was assemble a team.
The five-member team complete, we threw ourselves into training. We asked many questions on the 14ers.com Facebook group. We traveled to Texas to learn rope work from the master himself. We completed acclimatization climbs to Denali, Aconcagua and Makalu. Those three years flew by, and before we knew it we were waving goodbye to our loved ones at a Park and Ride in Morrison. I didn't feel ready, but I'm not sure anyone can feel ready for something like Shermapangma. All we could do was try our best.
The first views of the Fischer Face would have made my wet myself, but I was wearing my Wrangler Technical Jorts so that's not really possible. It didn't take us long to have to rope up, as the consequences of slipping on a pebble were dire. Over the course of our training we'd become a well-oiled machine, almost moving faster as one as we could as individuals. Also I was in front and pulling on those slow bastards like Buck from Call of the Wild. If you don't get that reference, please read more often. By the way, this is one of those expedition reports that airs dirty laundry.
The meandering approach crossed near several snowfields. We willow-wanded the route for safety in case of a sudden blizzard. Before long I called the rope team to a halt and belayed them in for a discussion. This was it. The Fischer Face rose endlessly into the sky above our heads, and the climbing was about to begin. I racked up our ice screws and snow pickets, then took a few moments to compose myself. As usual in these situations, I sang Miley Cyrus' "The Climb" to get psyched up. I'm a lot like Mark Twight in that regard (and most others).
By the end of the second verse, Tyler told me to shut up and start climbing or he'd cut the rope. It was on.
The climbing was initially easy. I climbed out almost 30 feet before placing my first screw, a risk that made Kate weep. We simul-climbed the first half of the face before it got too steep, and I brought Tyler in. I could see the fear in his eyes. He reminded me of Bambi. But deep down in his soul I saw a reserve of strength that would see us through. Just to be sure, I tossed a Twinkie up and over the top of the route to ensure Tyler didn't want to turn back.
I hammered in a picket, my last piece of pro, and tentatively inched toward the overhanging summit mushroom. I paused at the base of it only long enough to take a breath and settle myself. Then I began the assault. It's amazing the emotions that such climbing will bring. Alive, free as a bird now, and this bird you cannot change. I realized I was singing again when Tyler threatened to yank me off the ice.
Finally, I reached up to sink my tool and hit only air. No. Could it be? Had we done it? A few more careful kicks and I was pulling over the lip, pausing only for a series of mandatory hero shots. My estimate is the crux went at WI9.
I brought the rest of the team up and we celebrated accordingly. Our joy was cut short, however, by the impressive tower of the Rangerguy2010 Step. We established a high camp on the South Col with the intention of staying overnight, but we'd climbed so well and the weather was holding perfectly. We agreed instead to take only a brief rest before mounting a summit attempt.
Rejoining the standard South Col route, we began encountering other climbers. Almost all of these brave souls were free-soloing. I blame Alex Honnold.
The climbing was easy compared with what we'd just accomplished, but the insidious step waited above and the thin air began to take its toll without the aid of supplemental oxygen. We crawled our way upwards, often doubled over our ice axes trying desperately to fill our lungs.
Finally, we rounded a corner and came face-to-face with the glittering Korean ladder. Once it was removed, I racked up and began the treacherous lead, one that had never before been done. It soon became clear why. The crumbly dirt was so loose it wouldn't accept protection, so I steeled my mind and continued the climb free-solo. The ascent was most eventful for those below me, as my modified Wrangler Technical Jorts provided quite the impressive display.
I couldn't believe it. When I topped out, the summit pyramid and its easy slopes beckoned like an eager lover. The Rangerguy2010 Step was behind me. We had done it. I belayed the team up and we hardly even paused to consider our feat; the summit called. We more or less ran to up the final section and offered Shermapangma our thanks.
On top, we made a difficult choice. Kate had a small blister, Dan said he'd only slept like six hours the night before and I was starting to feel slightly hungry for a cheeseburger. It became clear we only had one option. I hit the "Free Helicopter Ride" button on my SPOT and prepared to be whisked down to the glory that now surely awaits all of us.
I want to thank Kate, Ben, Dan and Tyler for daring to dream the impossible. I look forward to seeing you all frequently this year at all of our awards ceremonies, and I hope you'll be there when the time comes for an even more lofty goal: the never-before climbed Graysverest. We'll save that one for 14er No. 200...
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Seriously this is freaking brilliant. I almost peed myself several times laughing. The Rangerguy reference, tyler and the twinkie, the jorts. I am so mad I missed this.
Having followed up the orange flags planted by your expedition leader, I, somehow, feel like I cheated and didn't feel the full wrath of the Shermanator, as I like to call it. I also blatantly trail poached. Glad you all got down safely. Most accidents happen on the descent and a few of you lads looked vulnerable to HAPE when you were coming down as I was on the ridgeline. I do want to note...I made summit without supplemental oxygen.
Camp VIII? Impressive man! NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE!!!! You have just inspired me to run the Ft. Worth Cowton 5k!!!! It's been a dream of mine to run long distance...and now, after reading your death defying summit success on arguably the crown jewel of Mountaineering (In JORTS)...I now can stand with you and say...DAMN IT! I WILL RUN A 5K (IN JORTS)!!!!!!!!
I tried Sherman last year but I got turned away at the RangerGuy Steppe. The winds were gusting up to 500 mph and it was -35 C so we decided to do an emergency descent by rapelling down the Fischer Face. We barely survived with all our extremeties intact.
Maybe I need a red mountaineering suit the next time we attempt it.
My heart was pounding the entire time I was reading...at last, I can truly see how great a mountaineer you are at your fullest capabilities! Thank goodness for that ”Free Helicopter Ride” button, eh?
After this ambitious climb, I believe you just may be capable of one of the world's great mountaineering routes: the Northeast Ridge of Gasherbross IV!
Wow. I was there and I still can't believe it. Photo #4 got me all hot 'n bothered...but then I realized it was just nausea. Makin' memories, Jeffro. Congrats on #100
Carrying all that gear (particularly the tent) shows your dedication to hyperbole. I could almost believe in the ropes -- maybe you wanted a little snow-climbing walkabout/practice (maybe with some n00bs?) in what remains of Sherman's gentle snow, but when the ice climbing tools, tent and sleeping bag came out, it was on...
Thank goodness you were able to avoid Camp IX -- it's over on the Gemini side for people who accidentally overshoot Sherman's summit. Smells like patchouli...
Dude, you're on the edge with those them views of the infamous jorts and accoutrements ... I was afraid we'd need to add a PG13 rating ... just sayin'. Ridiculously over-the-top hilarity. I don't know what you're wasting your life doing for your ”regular job” in order to afford climbing, but stop ... and pursue this idiocy right now. Happy trails!
you had me at ”I was content to limit myself to lesser mountains such as Capitol Peak, Little Bear Peak and Mt. Eolus,” I chose to climb this as my 14er finisher and now almost a year later I realize why! Great TR.
concept, climb, pics and TR!
Thank God you didn't have an emergency that required use of your escape kits... or worse yet the services of Colorado's ”poorly organized and amateur” rescue organizations.
Geoff (aka ”the dude at REI” and a 10-year volunteer with CO SAR)
... at the sheer and unmistakable bravery of you fine souls, risking your very lives.
I may have to consider adding the Wrangler Technical Jorts to my 14er Critical Survivor Pack. Clearly they make the difference.
Eagerly awaiting the tale of Graysverest... LOL.
This was amazingly funny. I was spitting out my breakfast laughing so hard. I’m sitting at 85 14ers –– don’t know how I would top this trip report for 100. Loved the Base Camp VIII and the free–soloing. I honestly don’t know how anyone does Sherman without the ropes! Epic humor. Well, done, gents!
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