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 Peak(s):  Savage Pk  -  13,139 feet
 Post Date:  06/20/2013
 Date Climbed:   06/15/2013
 Posted By:  PDavis

 Savage Couloir   

Route- Savage Couloir

Mileage- 7.5

Elevation Gain- 3,280 ft


Ever since I got Colorado Snow Climbs the Savage Couloir has been on my list. This past weekend Tony and I finally got it done. We headed up to the Missouri Lakes Trailhead Friday night and set up camp for an early start. The first 2 miles we made good time heading up the awesome trail. The guide book says at about 2 miles you come across a flat area that you need to find a place to cross the river. We looked around for a bit and found a narrow spot with a fallen log. It got cold enough the night before that it was ice covered which made it a little tricky, but with the help of our trekking poles was manageable.

Tony crossing the log
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Once on the other side of the river you head southwest around Savages East ridge toward the couloir. Almost immediately after the river crossing we encountered deep patches of snow. Luckily it was still early enough that the post holeing was minimal.

Making our way through the trees
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Even with the snow being firm for the most part it still took us awhile the make it through the snow and trees to get to the base of the climb. Luckily the snow had just started to soften and was still in good shape for a solid climb.

Approaching the couloir through the trees
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There's a nice flat area at the base of the climb that we took a break and threw on our crampons and ate a quick snack before heading up for the climb. It starts out pretty mellow and then averages about 40 degrees throughout the whole couloir. Up near the top it reaches around 50.

Tony just starting out in the Couloir
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Once you are about 1/3 of the way up you start to see all the previous rock fall. We were lucky enough to only have one small rock fall down through the couloir
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A little mini crevasse. Easily avoidable, but why?
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We both were extremely surprised on how hot it was in the couloir. Until we were nearing the top the sweat was pouring off of us even with just our T-shirts on. I don't think I have ever been so hot in the mountains before. Once we got closer to the top it cooled down and the summit was windy and cold though.

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Nearing the top were it starts to get a little steeper
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We took the direct exit from the top and the summit is just a short ways off
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Summit
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We descended the northeast ridge till around 11,700 ft where we headed back down into the trees and eventually made it back to the river and to the trail.

Tony and the NE ridge
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The couloir from the NE ridge
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The glissade was a little to tempting, but just maybe a little to fast to self arrest with our trekking poles lol, but they got the job done.
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Some pics from the hike out
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Savage in the background
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Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
Alpineair

Congrats!     2013-06-21 07:39:02
That's a sweet looking line!


MatB



Awesome.     2013-06-22 12:12:58
Nice work, that looks like a nice line and a beautiful day in the mountains.



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