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 Peak(s):  Meeker, Mt  -  13,911 feet
 Post Date:  06/04/2013
 Date Climbed:   06/02/2013
 Posted By:  Kevin Baker

 Dreamweaver at Last   

Dreamweaver has been on my to do list for a long time. It's thin line up the north face of Meeker is one of the finest mountaineering routes in Colorado. The snow conditions couldn't have been better and the ice was actually fatter than expected. I was wishing I had two ice tools instead of one for sure! Dominic gave us a belay on 3 of the ice sections. This is a very popular route when it is in, and we got on it around 6am with only one party ahead. This is one of those climbs where a picture is like 1,000 words, so enjoy the video montage!




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (12)
geojed


Great vid needs new song ;)     2013-06-04 07:43:55


colokeith


aww yeah     2013-06-04 08:43:53
good stuff kevin!


SchralpTheGnar


a classic route...     2013-06-04 10:26:59
in classic conditions, doesn't get much better than this.


jbchalk


Nice, Kevin     2013-06-04 11:09:38
Great video on an awesome climb. Congrats! I hope to climb that line sometime. Need to make a trip down to RMNP. Been too long.


emohr


Inspiring     2013-06-04 13:46:30
That sort of climbing is so beyond me at this point in my life haha but that just looks like so much fun! Thanks for providing insight on what it takes to be a ”Mountaineer”


TomPierce

Interesting...     2013-06-04 20:06:02
First off, Kevin, congrats on your climb, I'm really glad you stuck with it and that it was a memorable climb. But also interesting to me to see the reports on this route come in over the years to see how it has changed with time. The conditions in the last decade are just so radically different than when I did it almost 20 years ago, it's just...interesting. Anyway, congrats on your climb! Any more bucket list climbs on the near horizon?
-Tom


Kevin Baker


thanks     2013-06-04 20:42:45
Thanks for the comments, folks. It truly is a unique route with some pretty amazing eye candy. Tom, it would be interesting to hear how the route has changed over the years. Is it more ice and less snow now or vice versa? Those constrictions are really cool. I do hope to get up the Cross couloir on Holy Cross this month to cap out a short snow climbing season, Tom.


TomPierce

The changing Dreamweaver     2013-06-04 21:18:42
So to your question, Kevin, The one thing I can say for sure is that I haven't seen a report in the last 10 years that looks anything like the conditions we experienced about 20 years ago; the main difference is the ice. When I did it, the gap between the constriction walls was solid ice all the way to just short of the summit. The ice started just past the first crux (which was a near vertical rock problem, must have been a lean snow year) and went on and on and on. Thick blue stuff, deep enough for an ice screw here or there. It very much resembled Roach's comment about a ”ribbon of ice to the sky”or something like that in his RMNP guide, at least the old edition I have. I have not seen conditions close to that in any photos I've seen, but maybe that's just luck of the TR draw. Anyway, just my observations. Have a great and safe time on the Cross Couloir outing, I've not done that one but it looks very cool.
-Tom


mathguy


Really enjoyed it!     2013-06-05 12:10:33
Nicely done and fun to watch. Thanks for posting it.


SarahT


Nice video     2013-06-05 16:47:21
Dreamweaver's a route I'd climb again and again. Thanks for the nudge Kevin. Great day.

my pictures


Summit Lounger



Looks like fun     2013-06-05 21:28:40
Congrats to everyone on a great climb.


nkan02


It's a blast!     2013-06-06 13:29:32
What a great route! It looks like you may had a bit more ice on it when we did 2 years ago (big snow year). And yeah, 2 ice tools are highly recommended - this was the first time I ever used them (got new and shiny just for this climb) - and was totally comfortable. I think we skipped roping up on one of the 3 cruxes (but again, we probably had a bit less ice than you guys did). And who can forget a fun scramble to the summit and the Meeker Ridge!



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