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It was Thursday afternoon and Tony and I still hadn't decided which mountain that we wanted to climbed for Saturday. After some going back and forth Crestone Peak was decided and if we had time we would also go for the Needle. We left Friday afternoon and headed down to the South Colony Lakes trailhead. We found a perfect place to camp with a fire ring right before the trail. We got the fire going and had a few beers with some tasty chips and salsa before calling it a night.
We woke up early to get a head start on the day. It wasn't long on the trail before we hit snow and we were curious to see how much snow was going to be up on our route, high in the gully. We figured that since it was South facing that there shouldn't be to much snow left. We made good time and were on our way up Broken Had Pass as the sun was rising.
Sunrise with Humbolt Peak on the left
There was a fair amount of snow up on the pass. It was at least above our boots and in some places deeper.
Making our way up towards the top of the pass
Tony climbing through the crux of the pass
As we were climbing up the pass we could see the whole south side of Humbolt Peak and it was nice and dry so we knew snow shouldn't be an issue for our climb. Once we made it down the other side of the pass we reached Cottonwood Lake and decided to take a quick break and get some food before the real climbing began.
Cottonwood Lake
A little past the lake you get your first good view of the Peak and our route of choice.
The Red Gully is the obvious line right in the center of the photo and the summit is the high point on the left
Route finding on this route is a complete non-issue. Once you make it to the gully it's straight forward and just deciding if you want to climb on the left or the right side of the gully. From almost the start of the gully there was ice and it almost went to the top so we ended up climbing mostly on the left side and some in the middle.
Tony at the start of the gully
Approaching the first steep section of the gully
We were able to avoid all of the snow and the ice except for this one small patch up higher in the gully. It was still early in the morning and frozen so we had to kick steps to make it accross
Sand dunes
This was taken around 13,700ft showing the remainder of the gully and the last steep section
Tony making his way up the finally part of the gully
Once you make it out of the gully the true summit is up and to your left just another 200ft
Summit
We just stayed up top for a few minutes and headed down. The descent was uneventful for the most part. We made it down and back up the pass ready for our descent back through the snow.
Top of the pass looking down
Tony making his way down the crux of the pass
Tony and the Needle in the background from the hike out
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
And I'm looking forward to climbing that nice rock. Rock on!
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