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 Peak(s):  Teakettle Mtn  -  13,819 feet
"Coffeepot"  -  13,568 feet
 Post Date:  07/17/2012
 Date Climbed:   07/15/2012
 Posted By:  strudolyubov

 Teakettle Mountain and the "Coffeepot"   

Route: Southeast Ridge on Teakettle Mountain and the "Coffeepot" from Yankee Boy Basin TH
Date: 07-15-2012
Trip Duration: Day trip, 5 1/2 hours car-to-car
Trip Length: 3.5 mi RT
Climbers: strudolyubov

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Early morning light on Gilpin Peak


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Lower Southwest slopes of the "Coffeepot": looking towards Sidney Basin


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Unpleasant loose stuff on the approach to the "Coffeepot" summit tower


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Southwest slopes of the "Coffeepot": view towards Potosi Peak


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Potosi Peak as seen from the base of the "Coffeepot" summit tower


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View up the summit chimney pitch on the "Coffeepot"


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Looking down from the top of the chimney


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The "Coffeepot": summit view southeast towards Potosi Peak


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Teakettle Mountain as seen from the summit of "Coffeepot"


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Traverse to Black Gully


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Traverse to Black Gully: view towards Gilpin Peak


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A window in the connecting ridge between the "Coffeepot" and Teakettle Mountain


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The entrance to the Black Gully


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Looking up from the base of the Black Gully


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Inside the Black Gully


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Looking down the exit out of the gully


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The "Coffeepot" and Potosi Peak as seen from above the Black Gully


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The upper route to the base of the Teakettle summit tower


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Looking down the broad gully cuting through the upper cliffs of Tekettle Mountain


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Approaching the summit tower on Teakettle Mountain


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Looking up the summit pitch


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The upper part of summit pitch


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Teakettle summit: the rappel station


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Teakettle summit: view southeast with "Coffeepot" and Potosi Peak seen in the background


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Teakettle summit: view along the ridge to Mount Sneffels


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Looking back at the Teakettle summit tower


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Teakettle Mountain as seen from the base of the "Coffeepot" summit tower



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (8)
mattpayne11


Nice photos     2012-07-17 07:16:43
Did you rap off?


Brian C


Rap anchor     2012-07-17 08:01:22
Looks exactly the same anchor from last year. I guess Teakettle doesn't see that high of traffic. Nice photos. Weather looks a bit gloomy!


Matt


You're too kind     2012-07-17 08:13:32
”Unpleasant loose stuff on the approach to the ”Coffeepot” summit tower” I had more colorful words for that section...
Great, descriptive pics that make the Kodak maxim about a thousand words ring true.


Craig Cook


Stunning     2012-07-17 15:05:02
Great scenery for what looks like a great climb. Well done!


strudolyubov

Re:     2012-07-17 16:27:15
Thanks for your comments!

mattpayne11: I rappelled off the summit of Teakettle. Wet rock and muddy approach shoes combo is not good for downclimbing. The summit pitch is short, so the 30m 8.0-8.2 mm half rope works fine for the rappel and saves a lot of weight on the approach.

Brian: That is interesting, the rap anchor was in pretty decent condition. One sling looked almost brand new. The weather was not particularly good that day with rain starting a couple of times between 8 and 10 am.

Matt: Must admit I tried to pare it down a little bit


mattpayne11


Sweet     2012-07-17 22:33:36
Thanks and congrats again - looks like a wonderful day.


mikefromcraig


Question     2012-07-24 17:48:39
I hope this isn't a dumb question but I have to ask why you brought an ice axe in the middle of July in one of the driest years.


strudolyubov

Re: Question     2012-07-24 22:10:38
mikefromcraig: Brought it just in case: you never know if there is some ice left in those shaded narrow gulleys (even in July of a dry year).
On the ”fun” side, carrying bulky extra stuff helps training: there is nothing like trying to squeeze through a narrow 5'th class chimney carrying a pack with ice axe and trekking poles strapped to it ...



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