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Peak: Snowmass
Route: "S" Ridge
Trailhead: Geneva Lake
Distance: 9 miles
After setting my goal of summiting all the 14ers, I knew it would take a few years to accomplish. However, I did not anticipate having to wait from 2010 until now to continue towards my goal. This left me filling out of practice, and less confident toward hiking this particular 14er. The "S" Ridge can be intimidating to the most seasoned of hikers, I was no exception.
I attempted to hike this particular route two weeks ago and felt like I had lost the drive, and the physical stamina forcing me to turn around just below the gully entry to the ridge. I returned home dejected, and wondered if I could accomplish this seemingly impossible goal I had set for myself 5 short years ago. My wife Amanda, who has always been so supportive of my hair-brained schemes, took a few days off this week and told me we would go back and I would try again, only this time, from a base camp at Geneva Lake.
Amanda made quick work of the hike up to the lake, leaving me with plenty of time for some R&R before my journey the next day. I set the alarm for 5 o'clock, ate a nice dehydrated meal, and went to bed.
The alarm relentlessly screamed to life at O'dark thirty, (not really) and I lazily applied my crispy hiking clothes to my salty body while still laying beneath my comfortably warm sleeping bag. This process took me about 30 minutes.
I took a little shooter of Gatorade-which wasn't bad by the way-and kissed my beautiful wife goodbye. She promised me she would hike up to Little Gem Lake to meet me after my summit. (She was more confident that I would summit than I was) I was delighted when she told me.
I steadily made it back to my previous turnaround point-below the entrance gully to the S Ridge- and took of my pack. I ate a Starbucks Via, which I recommend everyone should do, donned my helmet with a deep breath and continued.
Slowly I made my way up this step, and incessantly loose gully. The higher I hiked, the looser it became. About 3/4 of the way up, I found myself pulling out a coffee table sized boulder with one hand, and gripping a sharp, tiny stable rock in the other. I dropped a foot or two, bashed my gluteus on the slope and nursed my ego for a minute before continuing.
For some reason, once I topped out of the gully I thought I would at least see the second gully entrance as I crossed over the top of it. I never did.
I stopped for a few minutes to rest, and to reflect on this beautiful day. I was starting to gain heart, and excitement once beyond this initial difficulty.
The boulder hopping is totally worth dealing with the slippery slope of the dreadful gully's! (What I didn't know, was that my descent would make that gully look solid) Just as advertised, everything was solid and inviting. My shoes were sticky and I was having a blast. I felt like I was starting to get back into the groove of this class three stuff. I had climbed Kelso Ridge a few weeks prior, but it doesn't compare to this!
After a few minutes of climbing, a very distinct landmark came into view.
After making my way up to the sharp landmark I sit down and take in the views. I am still trying to control my nerves, as I am solo and-beside my wife-there is no one in this area at the moment.
By this point you can finally see the summit. It still seemed quite a distance away, but I always love it when the shy face of a summit reveals herself. I knew from a previous great "S" Ridge TR that I was about a third of the way up at this point, and that the terrain would be a little more mellow. For now.
Making my way across this section is a welcome break, and gave my legs a satisfying refresher. I would need it for the upcoming section.
I made it to the beginning of the final third of the ridge in relative ease. It was a straight forward route, sometimes I would cross over to climbers right, left or just straight over. There were a few times where the moves were a little airy, but that is to be expected and dealt with. But the first section of the last third of the ridge posed my most difficult, or the "Crux" of the route.
As mentioned in the previous TR, you can either go up this ramp or around to the notch following a well worn path. I looked around the other side of the notch trying to avoid any unnecessary danger, but it didn't seem worth the elevation loss. Which, by the way is precious and hard to come by. I climbed the ramp using a series of cracks and ledges. It wasn't hard, but I needed to put the camera away. Sorry.
Immediately above this section are some intensely committing, and airy moves that gave me a slight pucker. I had not felt this sense of exhilaration since 2010 while climbing Capitol. A feeling of giddiness washed over me (adrenaline dump) at the prospect of me completing the Elks.
With the completion of the crux wall behind me, my mind was put at ease and I began to smell the summit. Or it could've been me not wearing deodorant, either way I was enthusiastic with the summit at hand.
After climbing for another few adrenaline inducing minutes, the summit appears closer than ever
After securing my safety beyond the crux, I noticed my previous accomplishment looming in the distance. You people who have climbed that connecting ridge are crazy bastards! (I'm joking, but seriously, you guys are crazy)
The last few feet to the summit were thoroughly enjoyed. I had finally climbed my final Elk.
I did climb to the true summit of Snowmass, I promise. I wasn't able to get a shot of myself on the true summit block, the timer on my camera didn't allow it. Although, I will never be able to prove it.
Being the only person on Snowmass, I felt it would be safe enough to descend via the West Slip (Yes, I meant Slip) route. I could see that no one was coming up, so I wasn't too concerned about rockfall. Yes, I was careful nonetheless. I didn't pass a single soul on the way down that EVIL gully. I would never do that route in crowded conditions, after being beaten up by the "S" ridge it would be too taxing worrying about people above and below. It took me a total of 6 hours climbing that playground, I would gladly do it again!
It seems everyone on this site posts pictures of a celebratory beer after a safe summit. I prefer something of a more finer taste to celebrate. I say this in jest. Thanks Rick!
I met my wife at Little Gem Lake, and she gladly gave me her water since I had long finished my 3 liters. It was a wonderful hike back down to camp.
Amanda made this trip happen for me and I give her more credit than my conditioning in my success on this peak. She told me I could do it, and believed in me. While high on this wild peak, near the crux, I could hear her words of confidence inspiring me to continue. Thank you babe!
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
on making it up the S-Ridge. Inspiring story. It is great to have the support of your spouse while out doing crazy things like this. The Elks are some of my favorite peaks as is this route (one of my favorites).
Jason, I enjoyed this report. Supportive wife, overcoming low motivation and jittery nerves, Glenlivet, excellent route solo, but..... you ”ate” the Via?
Congrats!! Great TR.
Haven't ever tried to eat Starbucks Via - when I was in college my bro and I used to eat Folger's Crystals on the way to class. We both finished our degrees. Hey, whatever it takes!
Well done
Can really sense how you felt up there. Hoping to climb this route the first week of September, appreciate the info in the TR. Props to your wife for her support, and to you for clearly appreciating her!
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