Support 14ers.com
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Gold Dust Pk  -  13,382 feet
"Pika Pk"  -  13,126 feet
UN 12,940 - 12,940 feet
 Post Date:  07/03/2012
 Date Climbed:   07/01/2012
 Posted By:  sstratta
 Additional Members:   Kevin Baker

 Gold Dust Peak, "Pika Peak", UN 12,940'   

Gold Dust Peak (13,382')
"Pika Peak" (13,126')
UN 12,940'

On 7/1/12, Kevin and I climbed some "non-14ers" in the Holy Cross Wilderness. Prior to this trip, I had heard rumors that this area was cool (particularly Gold Dust Peak and Mount Jackson), but besides my climbs of Mt. Holy Cross I had never ventured into any other part of this wilderness area. This may be because the Holy Cross Wilderness is technically part of the Sawatch Range (and therefore was inaccurately labeled in my mind as unexciting), or maybe it's because I've been in a 14er mindset up until recently, but either way, my opinions were quickly changed on Sunday.

Kevin and I met at the Lake Charles Trailhead (Fulford Campground) on Saturday night, slept in our cars, and started the next morning around 6am. On Saturday, Kevin had climbed some peaks in the Finnegan group (New York Mountain, Finnegan, and pt. 12,525'), so our leg muscles, energy levels, and hydration levels were in somewhat different condition on Sunday. However, Kevin has climbed all of the 14ers, most of the state highpoints, and 1346433284 out of 123885822812 thirteeners (or something like that), so needless to say we still went at a pretty good pace.

We followed the Lake Charles trail for a few miles, then at around 10,400' we left the trail and started bushwacking NE towards Negro Basin/Gold Dust Peak (or at least we thought we were going towards Negro Basin...). The Lake Charles trail was in pretty good condition and took us through a gorgeous spruce/fir forest with occasional views of some wetlands and East Brush Creek. We left the trail just as it began to get steeper and pass some giant boulders in the forest.

Side note: what we should've done is stay on the trail longer and start bushwacking up towards Negro Basin at about 11,000'. This would've saved us a steep climb up some boulderfields and probably an hour or two. The way we went up was pretty steep and time-consuming, whereas the other way would've been less tedious (although a little bit longer). We ended up going into the drainage that was NW of Negro Basin and SE of Gold Dust Basin, although ultimately it didn't affect our ascent of Gold Dust Peak.

We eventually made it above treeline and had our first views of Gold Dust Peak. Suddenly, I forgot I was in the Sawatch Range. The basin we were in, as well as the surrounding peaks and ridges, were eerily similar to the Gore Range...jagged, loose, steep, and awesome.

Image
The basin we came to on our way up Gold Dust


There was a prominent gully just SW of Gold Dust's summit, and while initially it looked like a hellish ascent route, it turned out to not be that steep or loose, just a class 2 talus/skree climb with the occasional loose rock. Above the gully was more class 2 talus/boulder-hopping to the summit, and we arrived at 10:30am.

Image
Looking down the gully we ascended on Gold Dust

Image
New York Mountain (left), New York Lake, and Finnegan Peak (right) from the summit of Gold Dust


The views warranted a 40-minute break on the summit before we started the traverse over to "Pika Peak". So far the weather was still looking good, and as we got our first look at the Gold Dust-Pika traverse I realized this would be the most fun and exciting part of the day. Initially we were going to head over to UN 12,730' after Gold Dust, then backtrack and do the traverse over to "Pika Peak" and onward to UN 12,940', but we decided to save our energy and only climb three peaks that day. That turned out to be a good idea, because as we headed over towards Pika we realized that descending off of Gold Dust's south ridge would be more difficult than expected. Plus, had we included UN 12,730' in our itinerary, we most likely wouldn't have gotten back to the cars until dark.

The Gold Dust-Pika traverse can be kept to mostly class 3 with an occasional class 4 move, with some areas that have a decent amount of exposure. As we descended off of Gold Dust's summit, we stayed on the ridge more or less all the way down to the saddle, then climbed left around a large prominent tower towards Pika's summit. This climb around the tower was probably the most difficult section, as it was loose in spots, exposed, and required a 4th class section near the top. Above that, we meandered up a loose skree gully, navigated up and around some slabs, and eventually got to the upper ridge and NW face, which had easier class 3 climbing. We arrived at the summit of "Pika Peak" at 1:20pm, 2 hours and 10 minutes after leaving the summit of Gold Dust Peak.

Image
the traverse over to "Pika Peak"

Image
Kevin poses for his mom and demonstrates how to effectively traverse a ridge...

Image
Kevin on the traverse

Image
Kevin on the traverse

Image
Big Spruce Lake with Mt. Jackson and Mt. Holy Cross in the background

Image
The remainging part of the traverse up to Pika Peak - the tower we went around is in the foreground

Image
Some of the terrain...

Image
Looking up towards Pika's summit and some of the loose stuff we ascended

Image
Ascending class 4 terrain around the tower - Photo by Kevin

Image
Some loose stuff on the way up Pika - Photo by Kevin

Image
Easier scrambling near the summit of "Pika Peak"

Image
Looking back at Gold Dust and a lot of the traverse


We awarded ourselves with another long break on the summit, then started the traverse over to UN 12,940'. This traverse, however, lacked the fun scrambling and route-finding we had between Gold Dust and Pika. It consisted of endless talus-hopping over loose and jagged rock (interspersed with giant spiderwebs often blocking the easiest path), and we were pretty sick of it by the time we arrived on the summit of UN 12,940'. By that time, we noticed a few dark clouds forming to the east, and decided not to hang out on the summit for too long. This wouldn't amount to anything though, as it remained mostly sunny and hot for the remainder of the day.

Image
UN 12,940' on the left, Eagle Peak in center, and Mystic Island Lake on the right

Image
Traverse over to UN 12,940' - Talus slog.

Image
Looking back the way we came - L to R: Pika, Gold Dust, Finnegan


We left the summit of UN 12,940' around 3pm and headed down towards Mystic Island Lake. There is, in fact, an island on this lake, however it is very close to the shore and I'm not sure how "mystic" it is. The lake itself though, as well as the entire basin, is gorgeous. To avoid some cliffs/steeper areas, we first descended towards the Pika-UN 12,940' saddle, then headed down a less steep route towards the NW end of the lake. This descent consisted of more talus-hopping and spiderweb-avoiding, and by the time we got near the lake we were very relieved to be hiking on grass and stable ground again.

Image
The descent down to Mystic Island Lake - Photo by Kevin

Image
Mystic Island Lake


We saw two people fishing at the lake, and it occurred to us that if the Lake Charles TH was closer to Vail, this place would be swamped on a weekend. These people, along with two other people near the trailhead, would be the only people we saw all day. From this upper basin, Fools Peak looked very rugged and awesome - definitely worthwhile to climb despite the fact that is only a "12er".

We eventually found the Lake Charles Trail near the outlet of Mystic Island Lake and followed it past Lake Charles and back down to the trailhead.

Image
Lake Charles with Eagle Peak and Fools Peak in the background


Despite the dry and hot year we've had so far, there were definitely some pretty wildflowers to be seen. The hike out was uneventful, except for a mud incident that involved Kevin and one of his shoes. It wouldn't matter anyway, since the soles of Kevin's shoes were ripped to shreds from previous climbing excursions (if anyone knows of a trailrunner shoe with a hard, durable sole that can withstand the impacts from scrambling/climbing, please let us know!). We arrived back at our cars by 6:40pm, making for an almost-13-hour day. Since we both had long drives ahead of us, we stopped for some gourmet cuisine at Subway in Eagle.

Stats: 12 mi RT, 5000' gain, 12 hrs 40 mins

Most of the beta we obtained for this trip was from SarahT, who did this same loop a couple of years ago, except she went up the alternative way to Negro Basin. Her TR is here: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreportp.php?trip=3651&photos=2 />
Thanks for reading!
- Sarah

 


  • Comments or Questions (11)
geojed


Cool area     2012-07-03 22:02:05
I just recently discovered this area while researching Mount Jackson. Whenever I climbed in the Sawatch I always wondered what the large peak to the West of HC was and discovered Mt Jackson. Definitely not you ”typical” Sawatch. 8)


Kevin Baker


Nice memory!     2012-07-03 22:10:36
Very nice memory of the day, Sarah! Sorry my legs were shot from the previous day. The scenery in that area is top notch. Hard to believe there is such a contrast of ruggedness in the Sawatch. There are hidden gems in the range for sure and now you've let the cat out of the bag! That was really a cool traverse. Thanks for coming along.

BTW, the pic of me hanging on the ridge is staged to scare my mom. I showed it to her today and she chuckled. My Patagonia lightweight hikers were replaced today with a pair of Merrill Chameleons. We'll see if they last the rest of the summer!


Monster5


Nice job, Sarah and Kevin!     2012-07-04 10:39:31
Good lookin' area with some fantastic peaks. Good luck with your trip, Sarah.


Matt Lemke


I told you that!     2012-07-04 12:42:18
Thanks to me suggesting the Gold Dust area while in the Gores you went there! lol

Nice report Sarah!


Chicago Transplant


Fun area     2012-07-04 14:49:31
I loved the ridge on Pika, the farther left you go the more difficult it gets, you can have some very solid sustained class 4 if you stay a little to the left of your route. Great area, you should check out the north ridge on the 12er Fools Peak sometime.

Kevin - I think I sank in that same mud puddle when I climbed Eagle


d_baker


that's not a pose     2012-07-04 18:12:34
and I think I see pee running down his leg. Sarah, you're too kind to Kevin.

Nice report!
And I agree with you about that area. Not very Sawatch like, and certainly worth several visits!


Chinook


Great shot!     2012-07-04 21:47:47
I really liked the picture from Mystic Island Lake. You just gave me a new place to backpack to. Thanks!


Headwall5


Thats the Sawatch?!     2012-07-04 22:05:59
I didn't know their was any good scrambles in the Sawatch until I saw this report. Awesome pictures, Great Report!


wooderson


I don't know...     2012-07-05 10:33:19
...how you got mixed up with this Baker character, but nice report!

Seriously, really good stuff. Beautiful area, and your photos capture the route and the surroundings well. Thanks for posting!


RyanSchilling


Headwall     2013-01-28 19:46:03
There are quite a few great scrambles in the Sawatch. Unfortunately, except for Ice Mtn, these are not among the range's representatives in the highest 100.

Nice report, Sarah! My wife and I tried to follow SarahT's route a few years ago, but I made some poor routefinding choices near that tower. We ended up ascending Pika's east ridge instead.


SarahT


Nice report     2012-07-05 13:00:54
...and great pics Sarah. When Kevin mentioned he was now hiking with a 3rd Sarah I told him the 3 of us should have a Sarahs only outing sometime. Would be kind of cool and creepy at the same time



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.