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 Peak(s):  South Sixshooter - 0 feet
Kingfisher - 0 feet
 Post Date:  05/15/2012 Modified: 02/20/2014
 Date Climbed:   04/20/2012
 Posted By:  Brian C

 Where's the Choss?   

I know that Derek posted an excellent TR for Kingfisher but I thought I would add mine as well since it also includes South Sixshooter.

Here is the text of my report. All the photos can be found on my site Brian in the Wild.

http://www.brianinthewild.com/kingfisher---south-sixshooter.html


The Kingfisher via Colorado NE Ridge (5.8 C2)


April 20, 2012

After our recent success on the Titan, Noah and I decided that a trip back was prudent. The Kingfisher's famous Colorado NE Ridge was the logical choice, and we relaxed knowing that it would be easier than the Finger of Fate. As we made plans, Derek contacted me and expressed an interest in coming along. Surprised that somebody else would be interested in grubby aid-climbing, I met up with him to chat about our potential climb. Derek was a fine fellow and his experience in chossy aiding seemed more than enough for the Kingfisher. Noah and I met up with Joe from 14ers.com (stoneman) who wanted to climb South Sixshooter and made for the Fishers. We rumbled sleepily into the parking lot after midnight and quickly tossed our bags onto the familiar and dusty parking lot.
Morning came quickly, packing went smoothly and it wasn't long before Derek, Noah and I were trudging up the steep slope to the base of the route. Here is what I jotted down in my notebook after the climb...

"Kingfisher is the 2nd tallest tower in the Fisher Towers and the CO NE Ridge was the 2nd route put up on one of the major towers. Harvey Carter made the FA after coming for the Titan and discovering Kor had climbed it a week prior. Noah, Derek and I climbed this in approx. 6 1/2 hours bottom to top.
Leads: P1-2 - Derek 5.8 C0
P3 - Noah C2
P4-5 - Me 5.7 C1
P6 - Derek 5.8
Route: P1 - C0 - Bolt Ladder
P2 - 5.8 - Chimney. Ok gear.
P3 - 5.7+ C2 - Sketchy free moves off belay lead to pin. Free/aid lead to crux boxed-out scars. Stick clip.
P4 - C0 - Free/blind C1 placements lead to long bolt ladder.
P5 - C1 - Tension left and strenuously aid over 3-4" roof (C1). From ledge, follow C0 ladder to 5.6+ free moves to belay (spacious!).
P6 - Follow 5.8 crack to summit.
Thoughts: Classic route! Pretty straight forward aid but still plenty of work. Stick clip works well on the crux. Loved that core-shot-filled rope! Linked P1-2 & P4-5."






South Sixshooter via South Face (5.6+)


April 21, 2012

After climbing the Kingfisher, we headed down and slept on the side of the road outside of Indian Creek. Noah and Derek had decided to attempt the classic and challenging North Sixshooter while Joe, Scott Patterson and I would climb the moderate classic South Sixshooter. Here is what I jotted down in my notebook after the climb...

"South Sixshooter is a small tower that rests on a large cone of talus and scree.It is a smaller and friendlier version of the nearby North Sixshooter. The rock is solid and the climbing straight forward. It is likely the easiest tower in the area.
Route: P1 - 5.6 - Starts on the far left side of the wall. Lead up easy/broken terrain until a chimney leads up and right (not visible from below). 100'
P2 - 5.4 - Lead up the exposed and runout fin followed by a ledge traverse to below final pitch. 110'
P3 - 5.7+ - 0.5 protects the start to a strange mantel. Clip bolt and make final moves to the top. 20'
P4 - True summit. From below P3. Make a finger traverse right to gain a steep and juggy crack to true summit.
Thoughts: This is a fun and mellow route. Climbed it with Joe and Scott P. and lead P2 and P4. Interesting that the route does not go to the true summit. The crux on P3 seems stout and the large rocking block does not inspire confidence."

The next day Scott took Joe and I around to see some neat ruin sites. We then parted ways and Joe, Noah and I attempted Looking Glass Rock but were unable to climb due to large numbers of rattlesnakes lining the bottom of the route (approx. 20 snakes). Another great trip!




 


  • Comments or Questions
Kiefer


Damn...     2012-05-15 10:18:37
Fine job gentlemen! I read your reports and drool over the pics and wish I was there. You do a nice job of transporting us there.
How much of a bugger was that 3rd pitch by the way? Having that exposure below ya, that move must have been a bit 'puckering'.
Utah is just so awesome.

Brian, what camera do you use? The pictures are very crisp and clear. I'm in the market for a new camera.
That rattler...whew! He'd make for a poor sling!


Brian C


Kiefer     2012-05-15 10:48:55
Thanks man. The 3rd pitch as we did it (P4-5 if done regularly) or the actual P3 aid crux? Our 3rd pitch was long and turning the roof strenuous but not bad. For somebody not used to that type of exposure I'm sure it would be ungodly frightening but it really wasn't bad. I do believe that Harvey Carter said turning the roof was the most exposed spot he ever climbed. The P3 aid crux was pretty hairy. There was some serious ledge fall potential in spots but the crux was easily stick clipped over.

My photos from that trip were an older Canon point-n-shoot and I can't remember the exact model. I have a new Sony NEX-5 that I love but it's expensive and I don't take it very often (it's what I shot the video for Indy on) since I don't want to break it.

I love Utah! Planning on going back for Echo Tower soon. 8)


Stone_man


Nice work     2012-05-16 09:28:25
Thanks for the cogent documentation on a fine desert trip indeed. Props again to the Kingfisher crew--I wish I was able to get a 'Climbing magazine shot' of you guys on the ridge, but oh well. Re: the coreshot rope--I'm not sure I believe your missive about 'loving' it...! South sixshooter was a blast and as always, the desert was a sublime and spectacular place.



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