Support 14ers.com
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Aetna, Mt  -  13,745 feet
Taylor Mtn A  -  13,651 feet
Missouri Hill - 12,710 feet
Lost Mountain - 12,614 feet
 Post Date:  10/17/2011 Modified: 01/08/2012
 Date Climbed:   10/16/2011
 Posted By:  mennoguy

 Is this really October   

Mount Aetna 13,745
Taylor Mountain 13,651
Missouri Hill 12,710
Lost Mountain 12,614

Partner: Tyler (tdawg)
Stats:
~12 miles
6000 Feet

With a stellar forecast on Sunday I couldn’t pass up another opportunity to climb some Bi-centennial peaks. I called Tyler and he was down so we met in Boulder and left for Garfield. The forecast called for high winds and mild temps. This was accurate. We parked at Monarch Lodge which won’t open for another month. At 7:40 we set out on FS 228, it was a nice road which ends at a marble quarry. After the quarry it was a rough road over the SE shoulder of Taylor. From there we descended 250 feet to another quarry where we traversed around the South ridge of Missouri Hill. Tyler ascended the Talus and I descended into the valley. We met up at the saddle. Both routes were quick, it just depends on your preference for talus or grass. The climb up Lost Mountain went quickly. We were greeted by strong winds. Luckily we were able to find shelter on the North side of the summit.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Mount Ouray

Image

Missouri Hill is a very quick climb from Lost. After fighting the wind and nearly being blown off the mountain we made the 25 minute traverse. Taylor looked far away from here.

Image

We were able to find some protection from the wind on by staying a few feet below the ridge crest. In the wind it was cold, out of the wind it was warm. The traverse to Taylor was straightforward. At about 13k we ran into some snow, it was only a few inches deep and didn’t hinder our progress. The wind was the strongest on Taylor. Again the traverse looked long. The wind made it look that much further.

Image
Image

The wind battered us as we made our way to the saddle. We had to stay on the south side of the ridge because of cliffs on the north side of the ridge. At the saddle we saw the crux of the traverse. A short 20 foot headwall which provided some brief scrambling. The rest of the ridge was talus and went quickly. We sat and enjoyed the summit of Aetna for 30 minutes before making our descent. There were three options for a descent. Our first option was to go back to the Taylor Aetna Saddle and follow the route described by Garratt and Martin, our second option was to descend the South ridge, our third option was to descend the western of the two south ridges. Each option required roughly the same distance and effort. We chose the third option. This ridge was steep, descending nearly 3000 feet in a mile.

Image
Image
Image
the class 3 headwall

Image
Looking back at Taylor

Image

We followed the ridge proper down to treeline where we followed an animal trail down the ridge to about 11.4k there we dropped into a drainage which took us to two cabins and the road out. We took another 20 minute break at the cabins enjoying the mild October afternoon, knowing this there might not be anymore of these until next June. It was a quick 45 minute hike out from the cabins.

Image
Image
Image
Image
enjoying my new home

Image
Image
Aetna's famous rock gully



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (1)
MtnHigh


Cabins near Aetna     2011-10-17 17:00:08
I checked out the cabins after climbing Aetna in late June; the snow was too far gone to ski the Grand Couloir. With a bit of work, they could be decent ski huts. Primitive, but simpler than winter camping, if you want to share with the mice. Looking forward to skiing Aetna next May.



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.