Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
The following report will take you on a buckled down, gung ho trip through the San Juan mountains. Its intention is not really to give much guidance into routes per say (although it does in some places), but more to manifest a Tolkein-esque adventure. I hope you enjoy.
Climbers: Luke (coolhandluke), me
Some stats to chew on: Miles Covered: Too many that I don't really feel like tallying Vert Gained: In the 37,000' range
# Mountains summited: 16 (12 14ers)
# Days actually climbing: 7
# Peaks climbed that showed up on many of our beer cans: 1 (Mt. Wilson)
# "Scraps" Consumed between the 2 of us: 8 (I discovered these cookies over the winter and they are the best damn cookie ever! Find them at Mouse's Chocolates in Ouray, CO, you won't regret it!!)
# Times we encountered Terry (tmathews): 1 (Wetterhorn Pk, Good to see you Terry and nice to meet you Anna!)
# Mountains I ran down: 2 (Redcloud Pk - practice my downhill running, Jupiter Mtn - practice my art of staying alive) Initial Idea behind the trip: Luke's Some witty ending statement: Priceless
Trip Itinerary:
8/27/11 - Mt. Sneffels (SW Ridge), hike into Navajo Basin from Navajo TH
8/28/11 - Wilson Peak and Gladstone Pk
8/29/11 - Mt. Wilson with a traverse to El Diente Pk, hike out
8/30/11 - Hike into Chicago Basin from Purgatory TH
8/31/11 - Sunlight Pk, Windom Pk and Jupiter Mtn
9/1/11 - Mt. Eolus, North Eolus & Glacier Pt, hike out and drive over Cinnamon Pass
9/2/11 - Redcloud Pk & Sunshine Pk from Silver Creek TH
9/3/11 - Wetterhorn Pk with a traverse over to Matterhorn Pk
Uncompahgre Pk - read further for details
8/27/11
Not much to say here, Mt Sneffels' SW ridge is fun but super easy if you ask me. The views were really nice and descending the standard route was surprisingly very pleasant and easygoing.
The hike into Navajo Basin is absolutely beautiful making it a stellar approach hike.
8/28/11
We got up the next morning and headed for the Rock of Ages saddle with Wilson Peak in our sights. The clouds were ominous and threatening from sunup till noonish. Signs of summer wrapping up were definitely apparent.
Back around the Rock of Ages saddle, we made the decision that going for Gladstone was too risky due to the clouds. So I kept walking down but found my hungry, vigilant eye peering off continuously towards the beckoning Gladstone. After much sky gazing, I determined that the clouds were just trying to bully me so I went for it!
I went up one of the gullies on the west to gain the ridge. Going for the Gladstone summit was extremely fun entailing some solid Class 3 scrambling. I loved every second of it.
Some sweet views atop Gladstone:
8/29/11
Next up, Mt. Wilson and the traverse! (Luke's first of the "4 Traverses" and my 2nd (Bells)). The traverse was especially entertaining and quite long, took us around 2 hrs. The crux was not very difficult if you are a semi-good climber but we had to downclimb it so it wasn't as fun as it could have been. Problem is, ascending El Diente's standard North slope is kinda...screey and not nearly as entertaining as going up Mt. Wilson's standard (at least in dry conditions). We actually descended around El Diente's north slopes but I never set foot in it because of its junk laden terrain.
8/30/11
From the Navajo trailhead we headed to the Purgatory trailhead (not before getting some quality food in Ouray and some "Scraps" naturally) for our next leg of the journey, Chicago Basin. We decided to car camp at the Purgatory trailhead and just take the whole day hiking in so that we could sleep in and what not.
The hike in from Purgatory is not bad at all and quite enjoyable (great way to save some dough).
**EDIT**: I took a look at the route as my GPS recorded it and its only a 5.8 mile hike from the Purgatory TH to the Neddle Creek TH with a vert gain of almost exactly 1000'. Purgatory TH is at 8776' and the Neddle Creek TH is at 8300'. The valley in between dips to 7695'. Numbers are fun!
One tip, from the trailhead, as you descend into the large valley, take 2 rights when the trail diverges.
You will follow Cascade Creek downstream through an impressive canyon then will hang a left and follow the Animas upstream to the Needle Creek TH. It's an extremely well maintained trail and requires virtually no navigating apart from the above tip. The most arduous part by a long shot was the hike up from Needle Creek TH but you would have to do that anyways if you take the train. Took us 7 hrs to get to our campsite including breaks and ooooo, ahhhhh moments.
8/31/11
We began with Sunlight Peak then headed for Windom. On our descent from Windom, my daring eye again caught hold of something. Whats that! Over there, that must be Jupiter! Onwards!
By this time, the clouds were definitely rolling in and were much more menacing then that of the Wilsons. Following picture shows my approximate descent off the ridge from Windom and into the bowl below Jupiter.
As I topped the saddle (after climbing hard and fast) I could hear some thunder off in the distance and was starting to get a little freaked. I dropped my pack at the saddle and quickly scrambled up to the summit.
Now, I am not proud of this at all but I'm almost certain that I hold the unofficial record for the fastest descent (and perhaps ascent) of Jupiter Mtn. From the summit all the way to camp I ran. In my defense for climbing Jupiter, I saw that the clouds were pretty far off as I began the ascent and also knew that the SW descent off was super mellow and easy as I had scoped it the day before.
We were tent bound (me bivy bound) basically till we fell asleep. It's no surprise that the Basin is as scenic as it is with the kind of rainfall we experienced.
9/1/11
So we started this day with plans to get North Eolus, Eolus and Glacier Point and hike out of the Basin.
Word to wise, the ledges on Eolus are a labyrinth of great climbing with virtually a countless number of ways to ascend, or you can just follow the cairns if that's your thing. I did a little of both.
We nabbed Glacier Point, descended back to camp and made the long haul out of the basin where we got rained on only slightly. Arriving back to my truck an (pheww) we threw our packs in the back, had a quick celebratory Coors original and headed for Silverton.
We ate some amazing, well deserved grub at the Silver Barrel in Silverton then headed up Cinnamon Pass...in the dark. For those worried about Cinnamon Pass, don't be, it was cake. I have a stock 08 Yoda Taco (Toyota Tacoma) and encountered no problems whatsoever. In fact driving it at night was kind of nice because I dealt with zero traffic.
9/2/11
We car camped at the Silver Creek TH and the next morning went up the Class 5 standard route up Redcloud then traversed over to Sunshine (just joking, its class 2 all the way).
We then headed over to Lake City after the climb where we proceeded to grill out near Lake Cristobal.
9/3/11
Wetterhorn was first up on the list.
On the approach in, the eye of Sauron (you the man Tolkien) locked in its next challenge...the ridge between Wetterhorn and Matterhorn.
The following image shows what I felt to be the crux of the ridge. I circumnavigated this one by going on the face not shown. Admittedly, it was rather hairy, loose and steep and perhaps the face shown here would have been better. The remaining fins I topped out on which I feel was the best way to climb them.
The approach hike in coupled with the class 3/optional 4 climbing of Wetterhorn along with the ridge made this day one of my favorite of the entire trip...and it was not finished once we got back down.
Relaxing at the car, eating bean dip and drinking Avery's Maharaja I had saved since Denver, Luke and I were reveling in what we had accomplished thus far in our journey. We drove up Uncompahgre's dirt road and parked below the trailhead. There we continued to drink when perhaps simultaneously both the hamsters upstairs started churning. Why don't we go for Uncompahgre now!
Now let's put a little perspective on our current state. Up to this point we had traveled quite some distance and gone up many mountains so naturally, despite our feeble attempts at washing up in creeks and sinks, we smelled rather "raw" to put it delicately. The thought of ending a day early and heading back home suddenly seemed desirable. So around 5pm, with a "few" drinks already under our belts (and more in our packs!) we headed for Uncompahgre.
We brought along our camping equipment with the intent of ditching it before treeline then returning to it after the summit to spend the night if such was required, but we managed to summit and get back down to the car.
It was a remarkable ending to a memorable journey to say the least. JR couldn't have fabricated a more fitting finale. Granted, ours didn't end with the slaying of a dragon, but it did end with a sunset finish on a striking peak in the San Juans!
Thanks for reading.
"Little by little, one travels far."
JRR Tolkien
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Natalie - winters approaching, time for snow climbs
Ryan - man, those are some good things to be hooked on, suugestion: peanut butter ON TOP of your gala apples
ThuCHad - the picture you tried to post didn't come up, maybe trying sending it directly to Luke
and this - # Times we encountered Terry (tmathews): 1
is priceless. I thought you'd see more of Terry though... Love your writing style and a sense of humor
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.