Support 14ers.com
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Coxcomb Pk  -  13,656 feet
PT 13,206  -  13,206 feet
PT 13,377  -  13,377 feet
 Post Date:  08/01/2011
 Date Climbed:   07/30/2011
 Posted By:  Furthermore

 The Monolith of Coxcomb and Others.     


Coxcomb Peak 13,656
Point 13,206
Point 13,377



July 30, 2011
~7.4 Miles, ~4,400 Gain.
Trailhead: West Cimarron Fork TH (High Clearance)


Morning Light on Coxcomb.
Image

Podcasts make the drive quick. I drove down to Owl Creek Pass where I waited for my climbing partner, Ken, to drive up from Durango. He arrived around 9:30 PM and we made the short drive to the West Cimarron Fork TH.

We woke up early and were hiking around 6:15 AM with our camp packs. Like most 13ers, we left our trail at ~12,200 on the south side of the Coxcomb-”U 4” saddle and started up a talus slope to the base of Coxcomb's large summit block. Stashing our camp packs at ~13,000 we geared up and headed for the summit gully on the southwest end of the summit monolith. To reach the chimney to the summit ridge we had a quick few moves of class 4 followed by a class 3 gully. Unsure how difficult the climbing was in the chimney, Ken decided he wanted a belay. I proceeded without a belay.

The southwest gully to the summit.
Image

The southwest gully to the ridge indicating difficulty.
Image

Looking up the class 3 portion of the southwest gully.
Image

Ken making the first class 4 moves into the gully.
Image

Looking down the upper portion of the chimney.
Image

Climbing up the chimney was enjoyable with very little exposure and I didn't think it exceeded class 4. The only exposure was near the top of the chimney. Once I reached the top of the chimney, I looked for a rappel anchor to belay from but I only found a pile of webbing attached to nothing. I made quick anchor out of the webbing I found and belayed Ken up. (If anyone is planning on using this as a rappel anchor, I would highly recommend replacing the webbing and bringing a rappel ring. The webbing was very sun rotted.)

Ken exiting the chimney.
Image

A few class 3 moves later we were on the summit ridge. Within no time, we reached the notch ˝ way up the summit ridge. The anchor had been removed so we built a new one out of webbing we had brought. We rappelled the notch and did a quick class 3 scramble on the left/north side of the summit ridge to regain the ridge where we arrived on the summit at 10:00 AM. Superb views. It was fun watching the exodus of people on Wetterhorn.

A splash of class 3 to the summit ridge.
Image

Summit ridge on Coxcomb.
Image

Ken rapping the notch.
Image

Traversing the gap to the north to regain the ridge.
Image

Class 3 to regain the ridge after the gap.
Image

Ken on the summit ridge.
Image

Wetterhorn from the summit of Coxcomb.
Image

Uncompahgre from the summit of Coxcomb.
Image

Redcliff from the summit of Coxcomb.
Image

Re-ascending the notch wasn't difficult as I set up a top rope anchor with our webbing. I would rate the climbing at 5.2-5.4. Once Ken ascended the notch, I removed my webbing and we continued to the top chimney. I lowered Ken as he down-climbed the chimney and I shortly followed.

Ken descending from the summit of Coxcomb.
Image

The short 5.2-.4 climb back up the gap.
Image

After reaching our packs, Ken decided he had enough for the day and was going to meet me at camp. I continued towards 13,206 by traversing Coxcomb's summit massive at ~13,000 to the Coxcomb-13,206 saddle. Once at the saddle, I climbed up the class 2 northwest ridge of 13,206 where I arrived on the summit at 11:30 AM. My stay was short since the weather was starting to build.

Ken descending out of the southwest gully.
Image

Coxcomb at the Coxcomb-13,206 saddle.
Image

13,206 from the west.
Image

Wetternhorn with the summit of 13,206.
Image


Continuing down the class 2 southeast ridge of 13,206, I skirted a small point to the left before arriving at the 13,206-13,377 saddle. Gladly, I ditched my camp pack and made descent time up the class 2 southwest ridge of 13,377 arriving around noon. “Heisshorn” looked stout from the summit. I returned to my pack, radioed Ken and descended into the grassy Middle Cimarron Valley. We found an outstanding camping spot at ~12,100 right below the northwest face of “Heisshorn.”

Point 13,377.
Image

“Heisshorn” from the summit of 13,377. “El Punto” can also be seen.
Image

13,206, Coxcomb and Redcliff from 13,377.
Image

Wetterhorn from the summit of 13,377.
Image

13,206 from my descent into Middle Fork Cimarron.
Image

13,377 from my descent into Middle Fork Cimarron.
Image

13,206 and Coxcomb from Middle Fork Cimarron.
Image

Route map.
Image

Continued Part 2



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions (7)
rickinco123


Nice Work!     2011-08-01 20:02:09
Lots of peaks. Any photos of your camp site? Good beta on Coxcomb, I was always hoping there was more class 5 on that. Looks like a lot of fun though.


Brian C



Nice!     2011-08-01 20:05:18
Great report. Can't wait to get down and do this one.


Taillon75


Impressive.     2011-08-01 20:40:33
Great Pics.Ive never seen that side of Wetterhorn.


Presto


My favorite 13er ...     2011-08-02 08:38:13
Makes me want to climb it again. Great photos ... Heisshorn looks . Thanks for posting. Happy trails!


Floyd


Cimmarons     2011-08-02 09:09:30
Man, I need some free time. I agree with Presto - Heisshorn looks like a beast. Thanks for the report, you've been busy.


Dancesatmoonrise


Classic.     2011-08-02 09:13:35
Good report on some tough 13ers. I'm sure I'll be rereading this for beta in the future. Thanks!


Glen

sweet!     2011-08-03 14:59:12
This is one of my favorite places in CO. Good TR



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.