Peak(s):  Mount Hood - 11,239 feet
Post Date:  06/18/2011
Modified:  02/20/2014
Date Climbed:   06/14/2011
Posted By:  Brian C
Additional Members:   Jen C, Scooby Koob

 Cascade Fun - Part 1: Mt. Hood    

This is a report of our recent trip to the Cascades (we're still here so here's hoping for a few more peaks). More photos of both Mount Hood and Mount Rainier can be found at my site.

Mount Hood via Old Chute Variation

June 10, 2011

My admiration for the tallest point in Oregon began about 6 years ago. Traveling to Eugene to meet my future in-laws, I found my face pressed against the airplane window. The slopes of Hood had appeared from the low-lying clouds to create an impressive wall of snow and ice. My first thought was that we were going to crash into the slopes. Once feelings of safety returned I found myself captivated by the view. After spending the entire summer hiking bare rock in Colorado, the sight of this mountain's nearly permanent frosting was a bit of a shock. Only moments later the view evaporated back into the Oregon clouds. It was years of occasional visits back to Oregon before I caught another glance at the mountain and my desire to stand on its summit grew. Unfortunately, our vacation timing never really seemed to work out and I was beginning to feel that the continually bad conditions on Hood meant the mountain didn't want me up there. Finally, my wife and I were able to organize ourselves for an earlier trip and with the Oregon snow pack close to 200% it seemed like we would finally have our chance.

Deciding to make a trip out of it, we also made plans for Mount Rainier and easily convinced our friend Mark (Scooby Koob) to join us. After the long drive from Colorado we soon were wandering through the Oregon wilderness toward the Timberline Lodge. Mount Hood had been teasing us on the drive as it came in and out of the clouds. The weather had been fairly rainy before our arrival but the forecast looked pretty good for the next few days. As we rumbled to a stop in the lodge's parking lot, all of the mountain had emerged from the clouds except the very top. As we sat and watched the clouds blow and reform over the summit we began to wonder if it would be clear for us in a few hours. After quickly refilling our water bottles in the lodge, we drove to a nearby empty snow-park and threw out our sleeping bags hoping to get a few hours of sleep.

The alarm came early and other than a brief rain we slept well. We started up the trail at 2am and steadily made our way up the edge of the ski slope. It was strange hiking past the roaring snowcats that constantly groomed the slopes. The moon was on the other side of the mountain and other than their wandering headlights the mountain was hidden in darkness. After passing several parties we neared the top of the ski runs. The snow was hard but the slope felt comfortable with just boots and trekking poles. As the light began to rise, our pace increased and it was nice to discover that the hike to the base of the Hogback was steady and easy.

As the sulfur-stink from the first fumarole wafted down to curl our nose-hairs we stopped to don crampons and helmets. There had been an accident the previous day due to falling ice (it had involved numerous climbers and several had to be rescued) and it put us on guard. The traverse to the old chute put us directly under the cliffs that had dumped onto the unfortunate climbers and it was obvious where the block had tumbled off. Not wanted to waste time we pushed on.

As we began up the Hogback the clouds descended onto us. The traverse left and into the old chute was more by feel than by sight and we began to wonder if we should turn around. As we stopped to discuss the options, a party appeared before us and informed us we were 15 minutes from the summit ridge. With the solid boot pack, multiple other parties and a solid compass heading we decided to push on. Climbing through the narrower chute to climbers right we crested just in time to see the clouds part.

We had passed all the other parties and as we strolled onto the summit at about 7am we enjoyed the newly cleared views to ourselves.

Strolling to the top

Mt. Rainier hulking off in the distance. That's next!

Happy crew

About ten minutes after we arrived the masses showed up. About 15 people in various levels of gear all crowded onto the summit. The guys in blue jeans, no gaiters and crampons twisted halfway off was my favorite. Not wanting to spoil the moment, we quickly packed up and headed back down. The final chute had proven to be fairly icy and crowded so we strolled over the small knife-edge and descended the wider and less-steep portion of the old chute. Down was uneventful and we soon went from icy snow up high to mid-calf deep slush down low.

Back in the parking lot we watched the crowds come and go. It was amazing to watch all the snowboarders primping themselves like they were getting ready for prom. This had been both my wife and my first state highpoint and we were glad it was Mount Hood. The snow conditions felt great and we hoped Rainier would go as smoothly. Although we had fun we looked forward to getting a little bit farther from the hoards. After a long period of eating handfuls of gummy bears and people watching, we reluctantly crammed back into the car and headed north.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

  • Comments or Questions

Congrats!     06/19/2011 16:30
How were the temps? I'm heading up this week.

Brian C

Temps     06/19/2011 16:40
I would guess it was right about freezing when we started. The summit was about 10-15F with a good 20mph wind driving it lower, but it really wasn't too bad. As soon as the sun hit it quickly went up to about 50 and made very sloppy snow. Hope this helps!


Congrats!     07/29/2013 18:29
Nice job. That mountain has always captivated me as well. Sounds like you had a great time!


sweet     07/14/2011 16:21
nice work Brian and team!

   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2015®, 14ers Inc.