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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-09-14||Route: South Face
Info: Great conditions in Red Gully. Small stream of water running down but easy to avoid.
|2014-09-08||Route: South Face
Info: Route was in good shape all the way to the summit from South Colony. No concerns whatsoever.
|2014-09-06||Route: South Face
Info: Perfect conditions. Minimal water in gully. Warm temps today.
|2014-08-30||Route: Crestones Traverse
Info: The red gully has a stream running down on the right side, can be easily avoided. The entrance to traverse is well marked with carin. Most of the traverse is dry except little snow in the steep gully after the class 5 move and knife edge. Coming down needle south face is mostly dry. Enjoy this awesome traverse!
|2014-08-25||Route: South Face
Info: We climbed the Crestone Peak yesterday (Aug 25th). After climbing Pyramid and the Crestone Needle, I found the Red Gulley route to be very straight-forward. There are many options for going up the gulley - it was easy to avoid the water flowing down the center. Where it was wet it was not slippery. Compared to the route finding on Pyramid, this was much easier. I prefer the solid hand holds of the Needle, this is much more loose. By far it is the easiest of the climbs in terms of route-finding, but the scramble up the gulley is long and a lot of work. The summit view is worth it!
|2014-08-03||Route: South Face
Info: If you take the "short cut" from the 4wd parking lot (going right, toward Humboldt, instead of continuing along the 4wd road), lots of the trail is basically a stream. Sometimes you can get off the trail and bypass it, other times you can try to step on rocks in the trail, other times you just have to straddle the trail. Very annoying. Up and down Broken Hand Pass, there is no snow on the route. Near Willow Lake, there is again a lot of water on the trail on certain sections. In the Red Gully, there is a lot of water running down, but can easily be avoided by climbing to the left or right of it. There are still some snow patches, but these can be easily avoided and don‘t pose a problem.
|2014-07-19||Route: South Face
Info: No more snow up to Broken Hand Pass. There are about three patches of snow remaining in the upper parts of the Red Gully. Our group of 7 made it up; none of us had any snow gear. All of the snow patches are avoidable with some scrambling on the edges of the gully, though if I had had my ice axe with me I would have probably preferred to go straight up the snow. I‘d say the tallest patch left is maybe 50-75 feet tall only.
|2014-07-10||Route: South Face
Info: Broken Hand Pass is clear enough of snow for it to be only a minor issue. I crossed about 20‘ of snow that was very soft with deep steps kicked in and never felt the need to use my crampons. Everyone else seemed to feel the same way. There is a snow field high up the red gully that is avoidable to a good climber but since I‘m not, I used crampons for about 75‘. I did take advantage of all the snow I could on the descent to save time (no glissading, just plunge stepping with crampons). Since it doesn‘t seem to be freezing at night the snow is very soft.
Info: Crestone Needle and the traverse from Crestone Peak are completely snow free. The Red Gully is still holding a lot of snow up high toward the saddle between East Crestone and Crestone, which a few guys in my group put micros on for and climbed 100-200‘ of. You reach a rib in the center without snow from that point and can reach the saddle without any significant climbing or maneuvering around snow. I stayed left in this area and avoided the snow entirely but had a bit of climbing and some added difficulty to do so, then crossed in a very narrow section of snow to hit the same rib without having to actually touch the snow (it was solid ice up higher). Broken Hand Pass is still holding snow at the top, as well as 2 other snow fields you must cross, none of which are difficult except for the 100‘ pitch leading to the saddle as it becomes fairly steep. Again I made everything more difficult but avoided snow by making some tough maneuvers along the rock above the snow field on the way down, but there are some pretty good steps kicked in and the way up was extremely easy in the morning. A few members of my group used micros and their axes, I got away without using any snow gear at all. If you‘re more comfortable on snow and plan on not trying to avoid it you may still want the spikes and axe because it is solid in places where you cannot kick steps in. There were a ridiculous amount of flies on top of Crestone Needle.
Info: Still holding lots of snow for the bottom half, but lots of rock for the last third. I put the axes and crampons away for the last bit, although there are still ice ribbons and a couple small snow fields even near the top.
|2014-06-28||Route: South Face
Info: Tried to snap some beta pics from Humbolt West Ridge route. Hope they help!
|2014-06-20||Route: South Face
Info: The Red Gully is mostly a snow climb currently. Lots of ice scattered around as well to contend with. I also accidentally partially punched through the snow into a snow tunnel 4-5 feet under the center of the gully that was full of rushing water. If you decide to climb...consider it a steep couloir climb and bring ice axe/crampons. Also worth noting we had a someone in the group have a failed self arrest due to the poor snow conditions that resulted in injury. We were fortunate it wasn‘t far more serious.
|2014-05-14||Route: S. Couloir
Info: Crestones are fat. Decent contrived, but absolutely smooth from 20 ft below the summit.
|2014-02-17||Route: South Face
Info: Attempted Crestone Peak, from Cottonwood Creek, on Presidents Day... The trench from the late January climbs is in excellent shape. We added our own foot prints and ski tracks on top of them. Anyone going up should have a excellent path all the way to the boulder field. We never took our skis off to skin, there wasn‘t a need. One word of advice: Stay left when you get to the boulder field its a lot easier to climb up on that side. We only made it up to 11,750 before heading back home: family obligations of one of the party. Its drying out fast up there... FYI: The skiing sucked.
|2014-01-26||Route: South Face
Info: stable snow in gully. some icy spots. lots of hard pack where we couldn‘t even kick in steps with crampons. ice axe and crampons definitely required.
|2013-09-05||Route: South Face
Info: We encountered residual hail deposits from the previous day (Wednesday) on the traverse from Peak to Needle, most of which is avoidable. Overall conditions were good and not icy, as hoped. The avenue of Kit Carson - viewed from the summit - is filled with snow.
|2013-07-12||Route: South Face
Info: No snow gear needed. There is one small snow field on the way up to Broken Hand Pass, which is avoidable on the left side. Bringing snow equipment would be unecessary weight.
|2013-06-29||Route: South Face
Info: Not much snow going up to BHP - one short steep section (photo 1) with lots of steps and then it is dry. We had crampons but others used microspikes. The Red Gully is largely melted out and the route tends to weave left and right to avoid the snow - only a couple snow crossings were mandatory - no traction used or needed. Thunderstorms started at noon and went until 5 pm or so. Jim
|2013-06-20||Route: South Face
Info: Ice ax still definitely required. The snow is melting a lot, but there is still a big snow field in the upper portion of Red Gully and contains some highly questionable snow, especially as the day warms up. Oh yeah, and the marmots seem to be all over the place and made nice snacks out of my trekking pole grips, bike handgrips, and bike seat.
|2013-06-12||Route: South Face
Info: Ice axe required. Snowshoes not needed. Crampons are overkill, microspikes help but to be honest I didn‘t use them on most of the ascent or descent. Some postholing up BHP but overall still faster than summer. Ice Axe required. The red gully has quite a bit of snow in it, but it‘s melting fast, be careful not to hike in snow where you hear water running. Also it‘s really hot so the snow isn‘t exactly the most stable or hard. Overall about the same as summer cond. as far as difficulty. If you like rock climbing you can climb on the class 4 stuff to the right and left of the snow fields (very solid rock here) but you will have to cross the snow in the gully at least twice. Above the gully no snow. Great views, amazing mountain. Lots of runoff. be careful on the snow. Trust nothing!!