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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-09-20||Route: SW ridge
Info: Summer conditions on the mountain. Stayed either on the ridge crest or as close as reasonable with sustained Class 3/4 scrambling with one or two low 5 move in order to stay on solid rock ("easier" bypasses on less solid rock available). Noted sketchy looking blocks within 100 ft from the summit (angle of repose is a concern). Descended SW ridge as well, with route much easier to see on the way down. Rock on the ridge looked fairly solid, but I‘d still test every hold. Ridge difficulty is somewhat similar to S ridge on Snowmass, just a little shorter in length.
|2014-06-22||Route: South Face snow
Info: Snow free to Lead King Basin (via Crystal), snow free to Geneva Lake. After that? Snow. Lots of it. Some of the best snow either of us has climbed. There are three gullies filled with snow, all lead to the summit ridge. The official south face route is the furthest right (south) and has the most moderate angle. The gully furthest left (by the southwest ridge) has steady snow and convex features. All have some sun cupping down low. The southwest ridge appeared mostly clear, but I suspect there was some snow hidden there. Do not take the north fork approach, as the river is impassable. Similarly, it would be quite a trick to cross just below Geneva Lake. Decent fording opportunities are present just above the lake. Start early and snowshoes aren‘t necessary. Edit: right. But, yes, mildly protruding snow bumps. That‘s what happens when you provide an update on little sleep with uncooperative internet.
|2011-09-21||Route: South Face
Info: Took the upper 4WD road in a Ford Expedition. Wheel base was a little too long for even this road, the back bottomed out about 4X in the hour that it took us to get from Marble to the 4WD trailhead. Road was in good condition (dry). Camped at Lake Geneva, fall colors starting and very lovely. On the way to Hagerman, some patches of snow around 12,000‘, more higher, very firm and slippery in the am. We had yak trax/microspikes in our packs and were too lazy to put them on, which might have helped a little. Summited around 10:30 am, and for the descent the snow was pretty soft. This was helpful for plunge-stepping, but in some places made things a little slick. North-facing slopes on other peaks held considerably more snow. Photo 1: Fall vegetation Photo 2: Looking up towards Hagerman en route, close to 12,000‘ Photo 3: Snowmass Mountain from Hagerman, see difference in amount of snow between N (right) and S (left) facing slopes
|2011-09-11||Route: South Face
Info: Road from Crystal to upper 4WD TH drivable by stock Tacoma, sign advertising otherwise at base is b.s.; no snow but for sleet and ice pellets up high, fell on Sunday a.m, melting by our descent an hour later, no route finding issues to/fro Geneva Lake, route up stream gully from Trail Rider Pass is a visible track; no colors as of Sunday. Link to link Trip Narrative with photos here.