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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2013-08-06||Route: SW Ridge
Info: Instead of making a bid for the summit as a snow climb in April or May, I decided to go for Peak C after the snow melted out. You will pay for this decision by hiking and climbing the loose rubble and dirt filled gully leading to the prominent notch separating Peak C and C Prime. No snow remains in the gully at this time, so it is all rock and dirt. The climb up the dihedral immediately after reaching the notch is Class 4. However, if this looks imposing to you, you can cross over to the east side of the notch, drop down about 10 or 15 feet, and then take a Class 2+/Class 3 route to reach the ridge run to the summit. This second option can be seen as you walk along the ridge after the dihedral. I climbed up the dihedral to the summit, then used the east side route on the way down. It‘s comparable to what you can do on North Maroon Peak, actually. Helpful trip reports by Kevin Baker, d_baker, or jbchalk can be viewed for more beta if you are thinking of giving this awesome peak a shot during the summer or fall. Photo 1: The upper third of the rubble gully Photo 2: Looking up the dihedral Photo 3: Looking down the dihedral Personal Recommendation: If you enjoy snow climbs, I would save climbing Peak C until early spring when the rotten gully is covered with snow (much like Cathedral Peak).
|2012-06-16||Route: Standard west ridge
Info: Snow free all the way to basin below Kneeknocker Pass but muddy in spots. The access gully to the west ridge had snow in it but was mostly avoidable on the left side along the cliffs. West ridge route itself was snow free apart from a couple very small snowpatches to cross. When you get to the summit area on Peak C head right up a gully to gain the last easy scramble near the SW couloir instead of left around to the cliffy north side (some low 5th class climbs head up but aren‘t recommended). See Eagles Nest Conditions report for more info