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Wetterhorn Peak  
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Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments  Likes, Dislikes    
2013-05-12  Route: East Face
Info: We did the East Face Direct route for our ascent and the standard summer trail for our descent. The snow was continuous above tree line and in general supported our weight both in the morning and later in the day after the sun came up. We never wore snowshoes. The bottom of the east face was good booting snow, in the middle it firmed up and near the top we ran into about a 100 foot section of rotten snow, just as we approached the steepest part (maybe 50 degrees). We took a like straight up the middle of the face until we reached the prominent rock band in the 1st picture. We veered to the right and aimed for the ramp right below the summit cap. The class 3 section had a little ice and a fresh dusting of snow (picture 3). The summer route is melted out mostly, but there are a few patches of steep snow that will need to be crossed. I felt fine on this section with just boots and an axe. Microspikes might have been useful. Picture 4 shows how much the trail below treeline has melted out. 
sdkeil  2013-05-12   3         Edit  Delete
2013-03-16  Route: Std
Info: Conditions were good on 3/16. Continous snow from Capitol City to the summit. There were ski tracks maybe a day or two old from the summit gully. Lots of snow in the basin. Summit gully was very wet (was getting some sleet, freezing rain) but wasn‘t snowy/icy. Bring an axe for the two gullies; had to kick some steep steps up crust. Was much less postholing near the Prow than I was expecting. Note: numerous wet slab avys (not directly on the trail), probably from the warm temps on 3/15 Sorry, no pics. Broke my camera on Longs and haven‘t replaced it yet. 
Yikes  2013-03-17   0           
2012-09-29  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: We climbed Uncompahgre and captured this picture of the conditions on Wetterhorn and Matterhorn. 
dswink  2012-09-30   1         Edit  Delete
2012-09-17  Route: standard southeast
Info: Dry and no ice or snow all the way to the top. However on descent below 12,800 encounterd a blizzard which accummulated an inch or so quickly. However, the sun quickly returned as the front passed and I would assume the south exposures and rocks are once again dry with just some accumulations in the cracks. 4wd to the trailhead, trails above are clear and dry 
JimS  2012-09-18   4   1        
2012-07-01  Route: standard route
Info: I finally came back to Wetterhorn and climbed it on July 1st after getting turned around a month ago! Trail was dry all the way to the top. The last section to the top was in good shape, rock solid and was doable without rope. Some used rope on this section when I was there, I felt the rock was solid enough to climb without it. Streams were all running low, route finding was a bit tricky before the last summit pitch, but all in all a great day! 
nyker  2012-07-13   0           
2012-06-12  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Snow free 
Matt Lemke  2012-06-13   0         Edit  Delete
2012-06-09  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Beautiful conditions as long as you are hoping for no snow. There were two minor snowfields to walk across but inconsequential. Road conditions good. High clearance needed on the last mile. 
arianna2  2012-06-09   0         Edit  Delete
2012-06-03  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Climbed Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn from Matterhorn Creek on on 3 June. Some minor snowfield crossing necessary between the peaks, but nothing serious. The path is hard to follow at night with the snowfields. Snow is not an issue on either peak. 
jfaust  2012-06-04   0         Edit  Delete
2012-05-25  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Well, if you like a good healthy Spring snow pack, the peak is in a sad state. If you like Summer time, then Wetterhorn is good to go. We did both Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre from Matterhorn Creek. The approach is bone dry, with some small snow fields starting below the East Face. There is one larger field just below the saddle, but very easily navigated. Post-holing was a minor issue in the afternoon, but nothing major. The scramble and final pitch are 100% dry, and in a Summer state. The East face is drying out quick, with most of the continuous snow long-gone. Pics below, I will put up a TR in the coming days. 
Zambo  2012-05-27   4         Edit  Delete
2012-04-07  Route: East Face
Info: The east face is in and it is epic! I left my camp at 5:20 and summitted at 10:40. There is virtually no snow on the ramp or in the summit pitch. You cannot ski from the top. I dropped in below the prow and managed good corn. Two caveats: 1). Corn changes from day to day . Wind and warmer temps in the forecast will make a difference. 2). The Hanson road is closed at Nellie Creek. This means an extra six mile walk each way unless you do what a lot of people were doing and go around the closure to the right. These people were getting up about .4 miles to 10,100 on the North Hanson road on the day I was up there so you would only have an extra two mile walk. Things are melting fast and I‘m sure you will be able to go much farther soon. A trip report with pictures will follow. Enjoy, Nelson Nelson 
Nelson  2012-04-07   0         Edit  Delete
2011-10-20  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Trail was dry until boulder field. I lost the trail in snow half way through the boulders but able to hop the rocks to stay dry. I picked the trail back up above the boulders, leading up to the ridge. There was very little snow from the start of the ridge to the summit. 
dritse  2011-10-23   0         Edit  Delete
2011-09-25  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: As of Sunday, September 25th, the Southeast Ridge route up Wetterhorn was (almost) perfectly clear of snow. Aside from a 6-foot wide section on the ascent to the saddle, there was no snow on the route, and most importantly the last 1,000 feet of the climb are completely dry! 
Dathivas  2011-09-27   2         Edit  Delete
2011-09-24  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Every even remotely critical part of the trail is dry. No snow except about 50 ft on the (flat) trail at about 12900. Maybe 6 inches deep and totally avoidable if you want. 
flintster  2011-09-24   0         Edit  Delete
2011-07-30  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Access via Owl Creek Pass to W Fork of the Cimmeron. Wildflowers in Wetterhorn Basin most amazing I have ever seen! 
Wentzl  2011-08-01   1         Edit  Delete
2011-07-30  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Snow free. No axe needed. Road in good condition. Take the left fork (instead of the rougher right fork) as you pass the campsites right before the upper trailhead. A few very minor stream crossings on the hike - I did the whole hike in trail runners and was able to keep my feet dry. There are 2 campsites at the trailhead, and a bunch of campsites .5 miles in or so. 
aerohr  2011-07-31   0         Edit  Delete
2011-07-02  Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: From upper TH, no snow to about 12,500‘. From there, easy snow crossings (was frozen in the AM but a slush pile late AM). Some snow through the labyrinth of rocks but manageable (snowshoes/crampons/axe not required unless glissading (then bring an axe)). Some snow around the yellow dirt section but easily passable. The remainder of the summit approach is relatively snow free. The ramp and staircase are snow free and dry. 
rleclair  2011-07-04   0         Edit  Delete

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